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Rudder Upgrade Part 1

 
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C22Bob
C Shirt/Site Admin
C Shirt/Site Admin


Joined: 24 Sep 2012
Posts: 86
Location: Knoxville TN

PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2012 1:41 pm    Post subject: Rudder Upgrade Part 1 Reply with quote

Restoring a C22 over the next few months and will be posting several enhancements I have planned for her. For starters, I'm making serious design changes to the thru-hull rudder. The original design was seriously lacking as a system to support and pivot 50 lbs of SS plate and rudder board. The first two pix are what I started with, and will be familar to most everyone.



First change - I proceeded to build a crossbar to support the rudder sleeve. Crossbar made from 1/4" aluminum plate, with center clamp machined from 3/8" alum plate stock. Added angle brackets on end for mounting to the stern quarter sections.



The bottom rudder bearing has most of the load and the new support will ensure the bottom sleeve is solid during hard steering and the occasional grounding.

Here's the crossbar installed. Also took the opportunity to reinforce around rudder pipe sleeve with Marine-Tex



and a close-up of the center clamp showing the sleeve with inserted flange bearing. Flange bearings are available at several places, but I purhcased mine at McMaster-Carr. (57785K39 Uhmw Bearing, Flange, For 1-1/2" Shaft Dia, 1-3/4" Od, 2" Length )



Moving on to the top bearing. First, prep the lcoation for the bearing bracket. Cut the original rudder support out of the cockpit sole while also cutting vertically. Looking aft in your cut-out, notice the section of reinforced fiberglass built into the stern locker wall. That section has the perfect angle for mounting my alum angle bracket. It's almost like it was made for it!



Here's another view from inside the stern locker




Now, the bracket itself. Cut from 3/8" alum angle. Machined all the necessary holes and mounted a flange adaptor to hold the rubber hose that connects between the top and bottom bearing.

That part number is McMaster-Carr 4657N35 Quick-access Flanged Pipe Fitting, 2" Flange X 2" Hose Barb, Adapter, Black, Polypro




Bracket mounted (after carefully testing with my working rudder pipe. BTW, if you need a section of pipe the exact diameter of the rudder, go to Lowes and get a section of 1 1/4" EMT electrical conduit)



Now, moving on to installing the main top bearing. I purchased a 4-bolt UHMW pillow block from W. W. Grainer (part #1F554). The bore was 1" which was OK with me because I wanted to bore a new hole for a nice tight fit with rudder. Added a UHMW thrust bearing and SS collar. At this point, the bearing assy is almost finished.
The first collar limits the downward travel, but I still need something to limit the upward movement.




So, placing a spacer section of pillow block and topping off with cover accomplishes that. The final collar isn't really needed, but added anyway for looks. Bolted everything down with some SS bolts.
Voila! The rudder you never have to worry about!

(The spacer section was cut from another pillow block that I cut in half, hole sawed a 3" section out of one piece which became the middle, and 1 1/2" hole for the other which became the top. Look carefully and you'll see 3 sections that make up the assy.)




Obviously, I still need to seal around the bearing assy. I plan to do that with a rubber boot. I'll try to post that as my final pic later.


Finishing up the top section

I built a stainless steel box enclosure for the top bearing assy. The UHMW block has two stainless pins to act as stops. Rudder is limited to about 200 degrees of movement. Added SS locking collar




Finished it off with a top plastic cap,..same UHMW material. Bolted it down and added a backup locking collar. The cap is also important for making sure the rudder post stays in poistion vertically. The cap keeps rudder from being pushed up




Here's a view from below.



Here's the finished product showing the rubber boot cover and tiller attached...



My design is one of many that I'm sure have been installed by Chrysler owners over the years. I hope it inspires you to take your vessel steerage to the next level.

Bob

Some part numbers for reference
McMaster-Carr
4657N35 Quick-access Flanged Pipe Fitting, 2" Flange X 2" Hose Barb, Adapter, Black, Polypro
6436K43 Two-piece Clamp-on Shaft Collar, Type 303 Ss, 1-1/2" Bore, 2-3/8" Od, 9/16" Width
2866T16 Uhmw Thrust Bearing, For 1-1/2" Shaft Diameter, 3" Od, 1/8" Thickness
57785K39 Uhmw Bearing, Flange, For 1-1/2" Shaft Dia, 1-3/4" Od, 2" Length



W.W.Grainger
1F554 Flange Mount Bearing UHMW-PE 4-bolt

______________________________________
1980 Chrysler 22 - Sail #1803


Last edited by C22Bob on Sun Jul 02, 2017 2:06 pm; edited 10 times in total
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Gus



Joined: 06 Jun 2006
Posts: 568
Location: Wilmington - NC

PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2012 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just glassed a PVC pipe joining the hull to the deck, and never again had any problems, or a leak. I wish I had the pictures, I need to look them up. I'm going to the boat tomorrow, so I'll take the camera with me.
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1976 Chrysler 22 Halve Maen - Sail # 595
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NYCSAILOR



Joined: 02 Feb 2006
Posts: 745
Location: NY, NY

PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys....

I am about to launch for the summer and although I never had a leak... I realized I still have what is likely the ORIGINAL "radiator hose" .... I was searching about for a suitable hose replacement when I realized I should go the "Gus" route..... I wasn't sure you could glass pvc to fiberglass... that alum bracket sure is nice ...
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C-26, Fixed Keel # 343
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dubbinchris



Joined: 23 Oct 2012
Posts: 54
Location: Columbus, OH

PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2016 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you post more build/assembly pictures and perhaps some more info about how you finished the top there?
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