Outboard / Remote controls

skyking · Post by **skyking** » Tue Feb 15, 2011 5:02 am

Well after two summers using different power plants with a pull cord, we have descided that an outboard with electric start and controls in the cockpit were in order.

My wife has a hard time reaching over the sternrail in order to pull start a motor. From a safety stand point this was a smart choice for us, since I sometimes leave her in the boat alone while swimming nearby..Nice to know that if you get in a bind she will be able to assist.

So thanks to craigslist I landed a 1991 Johnson 9.9 long shaft electric start / with controls .

I have an idea about where I want to locate the controls, But I would love to see what some of you have set up , since I still have to wait on the weather to install everything..

The last thing I want to do is locate the controls in a place that might be a hinderance once on the water

Your help is appriciated.

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Tue Feb 15, 2011 5:46 am

EE's remotes are on the SB side of the cockpit down low and behind the portlight. Sorry no pics. They are a bit of a trip point there, but its worth it because I can come into dock alone standing up at the tiller and use my right foot "motorcycle shifter style" to throttle up or down or even reverse..

(Had great fun once putting EE in her slip alone on a windy day by using my right foot to push the throttle foward, then my heel to kick it back into reverse, then my foot to increase reverse power, then to kick it into neutral....the reason it was so much fun was the look on a club member's face watching from the dock as he tried to figure out how all those power changes were happening with me calmly standing up the whole time !

)

NYCSAILOR · Post by **NYCSAILOR** » Tue Feb 15, 2011 6:51 am

mine are exactly as EE states...it is a OEM Chrysler throttle for teh OB like from a small runabaout... I am upgrading the controls , since I have upgraded to the Suzuki ... I am planning a tach, temp. guage and push botton start type of instrument panel as well..

I am thinking to put it inside the SB lazerette and operate the OB with the lazerette open.. not good if I have passengers or need to move around...

SO.. I am thinking cutting out a hole in the lazerette behind the controls ( I really don't like cutting holes in a boat , esp. in teh cockpit...)

OR, putting these instruments below in some kind of Nav station set-up ( still TBA)

I would LOVE to put it in a cut out in the stern lazzerette ( since that is always wet anyway( BUT I don't know if there will still be space for teh fuel tank and I NEVER want to put ANY electric of any kind near gas fumes..

skyking · Post by **skyking** » Tue Feb 15, 2011 7:01 am

What about the cables..are you routing them back thru a hole into the Lazarette? I dont want to have them as an obsticle in the cockpit..

I do like the idea of mounting inside the lazarette...

lecker68 · Post by **lecker68** » Tue Feb 15, 2011 7:04 am

On my C-26 I have a helm and controls are in the pedastel

amayotte · Post by **amayotte** » Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:33 am

I can't seem to find the picture but I mounted my controls in the port cockpit locker.
I just open up the locker when I need to use the controls and sit on the starboard side or stand. Works awesome, keeps the weather off the controls, and keeps the cockpit clean of levers, keys, and such.

Windward · Post by **Windward** » Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:24 am

My controls are starboard aft, down low, between fuel locker and quarter berth window. Convenient and relatively out of the way. Despite the key starting the choke is still manual, so I do the transom dangle sometimes.

Capt. Bondo · Post by **Capt. Bondo** » Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:34 am

My controls on on the port side with started switch and controls mounted forward in the cock pit. I assume it's mounted on the port side since I have a slide away galley on the starboard side
http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/ad13 ... G_4377.jpg
The throttle handle is below seat top level so rarely interferes with sitting. Currently my wiring can't handle the power needed to operate the electric start from the key, but the old Sailor 280 also has a starter button on the motor, and the choke does not have a remote.
Since we usally need to lower the motor before we start it, the manual choke and the starter button on motor serve the purpose just fine.
The cables and wiring all run through gas locker and out through a hole by the motor mount to the motor. Used a old inner tube to make the boot.
http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/ad13 ... thBoot.jpg

skyking · Post by **skyking** » Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:46 am

All great ideas..The first thing that I need to do is swap out the 12' long cables for shorter ones..I'm guessing about 5-6' would do, but I will get some measurements first.

Thank all of you...

where else can you go and get such great information

Alanhod · Post by **Alanhod** » Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:48 am

Rats, I am going to be the contratian here on this one. Yup I'm tossing in my $2.00 again... that's $0.02 cents adjusted for inflation and in a boating context which always costs more as we all know.

So take it from that perspective. I'm not trying to talk you out of it, just giving a different view point.

I hate my outboard remote control. I have stubbed my toes way more times then I can remember. I've gotten lines fowled on it many times as will. It sticks out in all the wrong ways. I will have it out before I sail again this season.

Oh yea one other big issue I have with the remote control. I pull my motor off my boat 100% of the time when not in use. All the control cables are a real pain. My 2 cycle is heavy enough to lift on and off the boat much less the control cables too. Arrg, that's why Pirates make that noise, Arrg, because something was way more complicated then it needed to be and you can't print what they really said as that would not be genteel.

I steer with my rudder only so I want my motor locked 90 degrees to the stern. Shifting forward and revers, I just slow the motor down with the rotating throttle which sticks up nicely from my motor and I move the lever backward or forward or neutral. Easy peachy keen! No Arrg here.

Okay an electric start and a generator/alternator/dynamo would be WAY cool and I'd be front and center for those. Just a cable going to my battery and a starter switch and a kill switch. All you would have to do is unplug your electrical connectors and you can take the motor right off. Easy peachy keen! No Arrg here either.

I try and subscribe to the K.I.S.S. (Keep. It. Simple. Silly.) principle when ever possible... Or when someone here on the forum says, "Wow why don't you do it this way instead." and then I rethink my Rube Goldberg inspired designed mouse trap thing-a-majig I've been working on and do it K.I.S.S.

Hey speaking of "Arrg" when is National Speak like a Pirate day coming up again? We need to have a good showing here that day so we can plan ahead.

Thanks
Alan

Windward · Post by **Windward** » Tue Feb 15, 2011 11:04 am

Much longer reach to the throttle/shifter on the C26 than the C22 (aaargh indeed!), but yes, royal PITA to remove the engine once the remote and battery cables are connected.

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Tue Feb 15, 2011 11:18 am

Jeff if your old Sailor outboard had the same remote shifter connector location as mine does I agree..that little ball is buried down between the starter, the engine and the neutral switch !!

skyking · Post by **skyking** » Tue Feb 15, 2011 11:29 am

I have considered those issues, and the electrical connection has a plug.So the harness will remain in the boat. as for the cables they seem to be straight forward, not to mention I will put the motor on once in the spring and remove it once in the fall.

I will mount the controls in such a way that you dont have to contend with cables...

But with that being saud...All good points Alan..

Capt. Bondo · Post by **Capt. Bondo** » Tue Feb 15, 2011 4:19 pm

Tim, as you figure the cable measurements, don't forget to take into account the swing of the motor mount. You will notice in my picture above that the cables a little tight when the motor is up. When the motor is lowered there is plenty of slack in the cables.

Alan, how is mounting and un-mounting your outboard every time you use your boat k.i.s.s, even w/out remote controls?

Alanhod · Post by **Alanhod** » Tue Feb 15, 2011 4:58 pm

Capt. Bondo wrote:Alan, how is mounting and un-mounting your outboard every time you use your boat k.i.s.s, even w/out remote controls?

Now see here is my evidence. I'm doing it all complicated and some kind person here has pointed it out to me.

Removing the motor is a security issue. When my boat was at the marina my boat was stored on the hard after every use. I would call the marina 15 to 30 minutes before I wanted to use the boat. I would arrive and my boat was tied at the dock ready to go.

The marina said that they recommended removal of all motors 10 hp and lower. They said they were the most popular with the Piratical types who think your stuff is real nice and they make it there own stuff and then you have less stuff when there done.

Since then they whole facility has been encased in fencing, high security lights, cameras and the same patrolling security they had when I was still there.

Now my boat sits on a trailer in my driveway, so the motor stays warm and dry in the garage where I've always kept it. Now I roll the motor out lift it up a foot and blot it on, then drive away with the whole thing.

See, all Rube Goldberg in nature and I call it K.I.S.S.

Thanks
Alan

NYCSAILOR · Post by **NYCSAILOR** » Wed Feb 16, 2011 8:07 am

I have the c-26 and like Jeff said... it is a real PIA to get over the transom and deal with the OB controls... Ihave looked into all kinds of poles and fabricated carap to extend the OB "tiller contraols" -- I now have the suzuki so it has a tiller control , but now that I lowered the whole OB bracket to get the prop lowere in teh water .. it is not much help.

My remote set-up is like bondo's...

Leckner...I see you have the wheel steering... if you could measure where it is located your cockpit... that would help me with my planned conversion and maybe a pic of the underside cables and esp. how you did the rudderpost thru-hull arrangement so it doesnot leakk...

cool video btw;

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... tion+Guide

Windward · Post by **Windward** » Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:00 am

When sizing cables, be sure to leave a loop in the control cables large enough to avoid kinking them when you tilt the motor up.

Windward · Post by **Windward** » Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:53 am

NYC, I did not measure my pedestal location prior to removing it. I'll see if I have any pics worth posting; may have some of the quadrant and pulleys, too.

There was enough space to stand behind it and steer, but that's about it. Chief complaint I had was that my head always hit the backstay when I stood at the helm, and I had to steer from ahead of the pedestal while single handing in order to reach the jibsheet winches while coming about. It certainly provide a solid point for people to hang onto when moving around the cockpit, though, and a great place for instruments. I'd have installed a folding or removable table on the forward side if I'd left the wheel steering in place. If I had wheel steering on a boat again I'd want to be able to sit behind the wheel as well as stand there.

The other option would be to locate it far forward, leaving enough room to get out of the cabin without bonking your head. You'd be able to reach the sheet winches and mainsheet, should have space for someone to sit (brace in?) ahead of the pedestal on either side of the boat, and would have space for a person or two to sit aft, leaning against the pushpit. You'd also get some shelter from a dodger if you had one installed. It might break up the cockpit too much and make it seem cramped, though.

You might want to fabricate a quickly removable cover/guard for the quadrant and cables. Mine was left open (prev owner installed), and I was always thinking about how easy it would be for shifting equipment in the aft area, or children's fingers, to wind up jammed into the works.

NYCSAILOR · Post by **NYCSAILOR** » Wed Feb 16, 2011 11:16 am

thanks Jeff,

I am trying to deal with that very tradeoff you described in locating the wheel pedastal... want to do this once and get it right..

I'll have to do a mock up and see how it goes.. might move the winches back perhaps.. as I am thinking of getting replacement primaries too in a crazy, lost my mind, uneconomical insanity fueled frenzy to upgrade the boat...

lecker68 · Post by **lecker68** » Wed Feb 16, 2011 7:49 pm

The pedestal is at the rear edge of cockpit port lights as you can see in the pic behind Kevin's leg and I do have the fold up table when I get in the boat I will get pic's from the bottom in the stern birth.

36189_1435198753021_1024503243_31267011_7450425_n by lecker68, on Flickr

NYCSAILOR · Post by **NYCSAILOR** » Thu Feb 17, 2011 7:06 am

thanks so very much...

if you could take some measurements from some referense points like the port lights you describe or the front of the "gas" lazzerrette and then from the rear of the veritcal forward cockpit wall..

Also interested in the stuffing box set-up of the rudder post...this is a big concern of mine... don't want leaks back there !

tgentry · Post by **tgentry** » Fri Feb 18, 2011 11:54 am

My original Chrysler control was on the port side. It intruded into the cockpit locker, but I suppose they did it that way for an easy cable run.

The new Suzuki control is surface mount and is on the starboard side. The cables just run along the corner and out through the big drain holes.

Both controls were mounted low enough so that the handle is flush or below the seats, and about as far back as you can go and still get full range of motion.

skyking · Post by **skyking** » Sat Feb 19, 2011 6:13 am

.[/quote]
The new Suzuki control is surface mount and is on the starboard side. The cables just run along the corner and out through the big drain holes.

Both controls were mounted low enough so that the handle is flush or below the seats, and about as far back as you can go and still get full range of motion.[/quote]

This is what I think will work for me...I have a johnson control unit where the cables come out on the lower portion of the box on the back side, which has me thinking of routing the cables the same as you have described or possibly making another hole slightly higher then the cockpit drain only if necessary.

skyking · Post by **skyking** » Thu May 19, 2011 5:15 pm

tgentry wrote:My original Chrysler control was on the port side. It intruded into the cockpit locker, but I suppose they did it that way for an easy cable run.

The new Suzuki control is surface mount and is on the starboard side. The cables just run along the corner and out through the big drain holes.

Both controls were mounted low enough so that the handle is flush or below the seats, and about as far back as you can go and still get full range of motion.

Tom,

This is how mine will be set up..Do you have any pictures of where the cables are coming out thru the transom?

tgentry · Post by **tgentry** » Fri May 20, 2011 6:53 am

The cables come out of the transom through the big rectangular hole the motor tilts into. I'll try to remember to get pictures this weekend of the control and cable run.

Capt. Bondo · Post by **Capt. Bondo** » Fri May 20, 2011 9:17 am

On a C22 its a extra hole in the transom by the motor mount.

The boot is just a old inner-tube rubber.[/url]

tgentry · Post by **tgentry** » Fri May 20, 2011 12:06 pm

Thanks Capt. Bondo. I wasn't thinking about the difference between a 22 and a 26.

skyking · Post by **skyking** » Wed May 25, 2011 3:01 am

Thank all of you...I hope to be in the water this weekend...

skyking · Post by **skyking** » Sun Jun 19, 2011 5:08 am

Its finally done...No more hanging over the stern

We launched last weekend and what a sweet deal...Electric start..with remote controls....I found a Johnson 9.9 with a long shaft, and control box on craigs list..Replaced the 12 foot cables with 6 footers , and I couldnt of asked for a smoother operation

Not to mention the new steaming / deck ligt which is a god send...we were out until 11:30 last night, and descided to try the deck light out when coming to the dock...for those of you have and and havnt tried it...ITS WONDERFUL...I used Alans measurements and that gives us about a 8' peramiter around the boat..great for docking in the dark...especially when the marina doesnt have any lights on the docks.

I'm sure it would also be great for those who need to load on a trailer aas well.

Thank all of you for you input on this project...More pictures to follow.

Happy fathers day to all...

excavman · Post by **excavman** » Tue Jun 21, 2011 5:25 pm

I had a little problem a while back, a broken tiller. I glued and spliced it as best I could with what I had aboard at the time. Later I had to decide what to do with the unsightly splices. I used them to mount a tiller tamer. While I was in the neighborhood another idea took shape. The throttle is an $8 lawnmower part, works, too.