Sheeting Angles for the C22

gregcrawford · Post by **gregcrawford** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 4:50 am

Now here's a question. The PO removed the jib tracks from my C22 and filled in the holes, so I don't know where they went originally. I currently have jib sheet blocks on clips that allow me to move the block anywhere on the toe rail. However, it seems you would not be able to point to windward as well as if the block were inboard some. Where are most everyone's jib tracks located, or are the majority using the toe rail?

Jmckamey · Post by **Jmckamey** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 5:54 am

My boat has never had jib/genoa block tracks. Pretty sure the toe rails were intended for that use by design. Just have to move the blocks fore and aft for foot shape. I undrestand what you mean though, seams the slot could be better controlled if the blocks were further inboard.

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 6:14 am

I also am not aware of Chrysler even offering jib tracks. Both of mine simply use the toe rail. We have our rail marked where we like it for our sail.

Yes, an inboard track will offer the ability to point better but if you don't have a fixed keel, I'm not sure how much benifit you would gain for the cost and effort.

Scott

Kevin Dreher · Post by **Kevin Dreher** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:01 am

i have to small pulleys attached to the toe rails.....are these used for that purpose....i am not sure. thanks

Bhacurly · Post by **Bhacurly** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:39 am

Kevin your correct,

My understanding is the angle from the line and pulley should bisect the angle made by the foot of the sail and the leech of the sail. Thus for each sail, jib, genoa, etc that angle will change, along with minor adjustments for conditions. As stated elsewere, marking the toerail for each sail eliminates the guesswork after you get it dialed in.

Trying to pinch to windward and tightening the line after a certain point isn't effective, I would guess because it flattens the sail making it less effecient and adds a crappy angle of attack... Moving the whole track inboard doesn't change the shape of the sail and in theory allows one to point a lil higher. As Scott points out there is more to it than that as other factors also influence that angle and is better explained by more smarter folks than me

Jeff has a trick way of adjusting his if you look at some of his picts, mine is the basic setup others have also OEM:

[img][img]http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1218/1473844331_2fe28a61e6.jpg[/img]
Untitled by bhacurly, on Flickr[/img]

Wow... I just noticed Capt Bondo's Avatar... Cool!

Jmckamey · Post by **Jmckamey** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:16 pm

Thinking about the jib sheet situition makes me come to the conclusion the answer is already at hand. If you think back to the trivia question poesd about a week ago... this would just the place for a " barber hauler". Seeing how we don't have a jib block track to pull the jib closer th the center line of the boat then the barber hauler could, and at a fraction of the price of tracks. Not to mention the time involved in the installation.
Now, just how do you rig one of those things? Ahh, one thing always leads to another.

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:32 pm

Thr Flying Scot guys like to bring the jib in tighter than the outboard location of the jib blocks will allow - and are fond of pulling in the windward jib sheet to bring the foot of the jib closer to the centerline. Not exactly a barber hauler, but somewhat the same effect.

Alanhod · Post by **Alanhod** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 6:29 pm

My blocks are attached to the toe rails. My toe rails show that one position on the rails has clearly been used more by prior owners then I have. I have slight bend marks where the blocks were attached for a very long time. I moved mine back a couple of notches and got a closer point to the wind, and it seems faster but I judge my speed solely by the keel cable singing tone.

Thanks
Alan

Jmckamey · Post by **Jmckamey** » Sun Jan 16, 2011 6:16 pm

Yes, I too have seen a good many boats with the same dammage to the toe rails. Mine are in good shape, leads me to think the po's didn't take her out much. And I can tell ya that the rails are in no danger at the rate I'm going.

Alanhod · Post by **Alanhod** » Sun Jan 16, 2011 11:18 pm

Beady · Post by **Beady** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 4:17 am

Alan:

I rig my boat the same way you do but if there is a better way I am open. Do you have a close up photo of the snatch block that you use on the toe rail block?

thanks

brian

Alanhod · Post by **Alanhod** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 6:02 am

No that is the best photo I have at this time. I know it is a Harken block that I believe was installed by Chrysler when it was built. I have only replaced on small block on the main out haul and I even replaced it with a Harken. Or is it spelled Harkin?

Thanks
Alan

Banshi · Post by **Banshi** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 6:42 am

You can look at your jib to see if your location is correct. If the top of the sail flutters or appears loose move the block forward and if the bottom seems loose move it back. Having telltales on the jib make this a lot easier. Also I tend to move mine back just a notch or two with my storm jib when the winds really pick up, it flattens the bottom and spills some air up high helps keep the boat up right but still retaining some jib for control and drive upwind. This isn't real healthy for the sail but you do what you gotta do and my storm jib is an old cut up main anyways.

Bhacurly · Post by **Bhacurly** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 10:04 am

Hi Alan,

Not that I am anyone to say how to rig a boat, but I honestly never thought of doing it the way you do

I will give it shot and see... Does it get stepped on coming back over the cowling like that? I have plenty of line and could do that. I use that block now for my spinnaker, which is seldom anyways.

As far as blocks go, I have price lists of blocks for my C-22 and my Catalina 27 from suppliers like Harken and WM, etc. I keep an eye out on E-bay for any good deals, and have gotten most my blocks and hardware there, good as new condition. Keep in mind any shipping you have to pay and bid smart and patiently. I have a couple boxes I've accumulated over the last couple years with parts this way and have saved a lot compared to buying direct, all Harken stuff.

Billy

Alanhod · Post by **Alanhod** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 2:12 pm

Papax3 · Post by **Papax3** » Wed Jan 26, 2011 5:47 pm

Oh God!!

I feel slow trying to understand all of what you guys are saying... I get some of it, but having never sailed before (proud new owner), it'll be a while before the ling sets in to make sense. I have a traveler at the back of the boat for the fiddle block, and two pulleys: one on each side of the toe-rail; they have clearly lived there a while, but haven't worn anything raw. I'm mostly interested in handling all points of running-rigging from the cockpit/ single-hander-ed. I'm thinking those pulleys have something to do with that. my cam cleats for the jib both need the wood that's underneath them replaced. Seems like I've read or heard somewhere that the main traveler is sort of useless??? Maybe with exception of light wind.
Bill