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Brightwork Refinishing
Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 5:23 am
by tgentry
I mobilized the family and we sanded and varnished all the brightwork on Copacetic. I didn't think to take any "before" pictures, but it looked more like driftwood than teak. I think it had last seen varnish during the Reagan administration. It cleaned up beautifully though!
Ignore the hatch boards, they're in far better condition than the other wood was and I'll probably do them next spring.

brightwork renewed
Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:17 am
by sbleeke
Did you remove the wood to do the refinishing?
Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:29 am
by tgentry
Some yes, some no. In retrospect I probably should have removed it all.
I removed the hatch sliders and slats on the companionway step. The rest we sanded and finished in place.
Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 8:24 am
by NYCSAILOR
WOW!,
I jsut started doing thsi.... my hatchboards were really scary.., I sanded, and sanded and sanded and then used the Sikkens Cetol Teak product... 4 coats.. really liked it so far.... great result... also dismantled the companionway ladder sanded and sanded and then the cetol... 3 coats... looked good..... nxt will be the slats before the companionway and then removal of the sliding hatch... fresh teflon tape and refinish the teak there with Cetol as well..... bought a new tiller and will finsih with bristol but it is about 1/2 or less thinner stock for the tiller post bracket so I will have to put in some aluminum spacer or something there..
also my curtains were scary (OEM).... made my boat look like a ghost ship from outside and worse inside... So I am removing the curtains ( they literally need to be ripped off as they were pop-riveted into the liner!) and tinting the windows for a more modern look but I think all new windows are in the cards..... hoping these might ft.....
http://www.cruisingconcepts.com/retroftwin.htm
anyone know what exactly from the catalina's will work on the chryslers?
thye have lots of vendor and aftermarket support and some of the stuf looks generic enough..
BTW: I was amazed to see that you have the EXACT same knotmeter as I do in the exact same location... my is dead.. does yours work? Where did you get parts?
Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 8:29 am
by tgentry
We've only been out once and I hadn't found how to power the Knot/Depth/Log up yet. Now I know how, so we'll see next time.
I believe you can still get it serviced by Moor Electronics:
http://www.moorelectronics.com/index.html
I'm hopeful anyway.
Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 12:34 pm
by NYCSAILOR
great link... who knew.... in fact the us25k model looks very much like what we have... unreal... when I get a chance I will contact them and see what they have to say..
Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 3:38 pm
by Mario G
I just used teak oil on mine and it still looks great. All the outer teak set exposed to the elements for 15 yrs and looked wasted but I lightly sanded and and just after a few coats of oil and my love affair with teak was born.

Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 7:35 pm
by Gus
Sweet! I love bright work. I usually just use Teak Oil once a year, it seems to do the trick.
Gus
Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 5:06 am
by CaptainScott
Lookin' good! Nice job!
Scott
Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 11:31 am
by NYCSAILOR
I see you have a different mast step. I like that it has places to attach turning blocks... please let me know what you used and how it is attached and how it is working... I have the OEM "Hook" arrangement do these bails fit over the OEM hook? hard to see in the photo... I am loathe to drill lots of holes for truning blocks down all around the base circumference of my mast...
Also, when you reattached the woodwork, what , if anything did you use to rebed it? I would worry that the screw hoes would get sloppy and not rehold the wood upon reattachment...Did it all come off easily w/o breaking?
Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 12:13 pm
by tgentry
I bought the boat from Dennis Knudson, a member of this board. I think he still checks in from time to time so he may be able to answer your questions about the mast step. It is a sweet setup for running lines to the cockpit. Copacetic has both halyards, the topping lift and a reefing line led aft.
I removed the slats at the companionway entrance and the sliders for the companionway hatch. Neither of those was actually bedded, it looked like the screw holes were caulked and that was it. So it was simply a matter of unscrewing and picking up the wood. On re installation I did the same thing, I just shot some caulk into the holes before putting the wood on and screwing it down.
If you have to sand as much as I did, you'll need to re countersink the oval head screws in the companionway slats.