Running C22 halyards to the cockpit

[trev]

OK I haven't even sailed my C22 yet. I took my basic keelboat certification on a boat with the halyards run to the cockpit and I liked this over going to the mast to raise the sails.

Can any one who has done this on a C22 post some pics on how you did it. I need to replace both halyards anyways so it is the perfect time to do it.

Any tips on how to do it and what parts to use would be great.

Thanks

[CaptainScott]

This is a picture of the turning blocks at the base of the mast:
Click here!

Here is a picture of the side of Lady Jo. It is very large and you browser may resize it. If so save it and open it in paint shop or whatever.

Starting from the cockpit you see the Starboard winch, then a couple oc cluthced jam cleats, then move forward and see a standard jam cleat, move forward and see a turning block, move towards themast and see a round hole to align the halyard, move to the base of the mast and in this photo you can not see but there is another turning block. See the previous photo of Lady Di to see the turning blocks at the base of the mast!

Click here!


Enjoy!
Scott

[trev]

Thanks, that's exactly what I needed.

[Bhacurly]

Ahhhh,, you have triples on the cabin top... Luckyyy

[CaptainScott]

Yeah but I really don't use 'em.
I run 1 halyard down each side of the coach top and that is it.

Scott

[Bhacurly]

No spinnaker?

[robinsonzak]

Heres how I set up my Sula.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zakrobinso ... 494954386/

The photos are towards the bottom. click to enlarge.

In hindsight I would have explored the possibility of riveting the mast base blocks as low on the mast as possible using heavy stainless rivets. Doing that would allow the cheek blocks to be mounted directly on deck minimizing the hours of woodwork put into the base blocks (With the mast base block and cheek block mounted flat on deck the lines rub on the gelcoat and create drag...) That would also minimize holes in the deck.



Z

[CaptainScott]

No spinnaker?

Nope.
Basic main and Genny.
I do however have a nice light 150%

Spinnaker is on Destiny!

Scott

[Mario G]

heres my set up but I'm not sure what its all for. When I sailed Jeff's C-22 he doesn't have all the deck hardwear and it was just fine to sail.

I'm sure its for sailing solo

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/56 ... k?start=48

I was hopeing I could convince the wife to drive a 1975 Chrysler New Yorker for a tow vehicle but she thinks this 1965 New Yorker is to high maintanance already... whats she mean?

[trev]

Thanks for all the photos, I guess its time to go shopping.

What is everyone doing on the inside, do you have backing plates or just using the cap nuts like the stock winches have?

[monty]

hey Mario, in the bow shot of your boat, what is that swivel bracket behind the cleat for? there's one on my 26 along with a heavy deck eye in front of it. is it for a club footed jib?

[Mario G]

LOL I was hopeing someone here could tell me. The other C-22 I sailed didn't have half the deack hardwear, so I'm a little in the dark myself.

[CaptainScott]

Heres how I set up my Sula.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zakrobinso ... 494954386/

The photos are towards the bottom. click to enlarge.

In hindsight I would have explored the possibility of riveting the mast base blocks as low on the mast as possible using heavy stainless rivets. Doing that would allow the cheek blocks to be mounted directly on deck minimizing the hours of woodwork put into the base blocks (With the mast base block and cheek block mounted flat on deck the lines rub on the gelcoat and create drag...) That would also minimize holes in the deck.



Z

I was looking through your photos . . . . Looks like you have rowlocks set up for rowing . . . Have you actually used them? do they work well?
Just curious!

Scott

[robinsonzak]

Heres how I set up my Sula.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zakrobinso ... 494954386/

The photos are towards the bottom. click to enlarge.

In hindsight I would have explored the possibility of riveting the mast base blocks as low on the mast as possible using heavy stainless rivets. Doing that would allow the cheek blocks to be mounted directly on deck minimizing the hours of woodwork put into the base blocks (With the mast base block and cheek block mounted flat on deck the lines rub on the gelcoat and create drag...) That would also minimize holes in the deck.



Z

I was looking through your photos . . . . Looks like you have rowlocks set up for rowing . . . Have you actually used them? do they work well?
Just curious!

Scott

Yeah,
The oar locks are super solid, I bought the flanges from Hollaender pipe supply http://www.hollaender.com/?page=flanges The flanges are item 52 E

The oar towers I got from PRO in Flagstaff AZ http://www.proriver.com/equipment_sales.html
All the way at the bottom, I got the 12" for clearance over the coaming.

The oars are made by cataract and unless you really like the idea of dropping some coin on the system its best to find them used.

I have 9 footers with 1 foot long blades. She rows well in little to no wind but in anything over 10 or 15 knots you can really only control which way your pointed.

Another positive is the redundancy they afford for the rudder. I broke a rudder one day and sailed under the main in 20 kts of wind steering just with the lee side oar...

[CaptainScott]

Very cool setup!

Thanks for the description!

Scott