Toe and rurails now removed-- need some advice for next step

[dennyzen]

Are these fasteners in the hull-deck joint screws or bolts?

I have yet to clean off the caulk on the toerail and on the hull-deck joint, before I rebed the toe and rub rails with 4200 ).

I see the hull-joint is the shoe box type. The "lid" lip is only a about one vertical inch of fiberglass on the outside but no gaps. On the inside I can only see a couple of places because of the liner. There the caulk appears substantial and still a bit pliant.

On the outside, there is some chipping along the bottom edge of the lid lip (mostly at the fastener) and several concentric stress cracks on the lid lip around the fastener. Only one crack just at the bow goes up to the right angle of the lid lip and on to the flat deck, that one could use a little epoxy repair.

I wouldn't think they were throughbolted, given the tight anatomy of the liner, deck and hull at this point (and from the "parted" parts boat pictures), so I think they are screws.

And what are the pros/cons of removing them in order to reseal the actual joint with 5200. Is that what those of you who found a gap had to do to see the gap. Wouldn't that involve some serious prying and don't the liner and bulkheads prevent that to some degree? How wide would you have to make it to properly remove old caulking and put in 5200? Seems like it would be too much AND I'd really rather not, but if I ever do it, it is now.

Any thing else I should do to the joint or rails at this point?

(Right, I'm not on the water this summer)

[Mario G]

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/20 ... 6121lTXfLV
and the picture after might help.

And if I understad you right I would just apply the sealer to the bottom lip area and around the screws holding the deak to the hull with out seperating. If you were geeting major leakage remove all the screws and start pring the hull from the deak fron the hull from ceter out the bow and stern corners have to me done very carefull to to crack the fiberglass.

few free to ask about anything that I made more confusing then clear.

[Gus]

When I did my rubrail, the 5200 from factory was in good shape. I did use some sealant around the screws when I re-installed it. I think 4200 gets yellow with sunlight exposure, but I might be wrong.

Gus

Are these fasteners in the hull-deck joint screws or bolts?

I have yet to clean off the caulk on the toerail and on the hull-deck joint, before I rebed the toe and rub rails with 4200 ).

I see the hull-joint is the shoe box type. The "lid" lip is only a about one vertical inch of fiberglass on the outside but no gaps. On the inside I can only see a couple of places because of the liner. There the caulk appears substantial and still a bit pliant.

On the outside, there is some chipping along the bottom edge of the lid lip (mostly at the fastener) and several concentric stress cracks on the lid lip around the fastener. Only one crack just at the bow goes up to the right angle of the lid lip and on to the flat deck, that one could use a little epoxy repair.

I wouldn't think they were throughbolted, given the tight anatomy of the liner, deck and hull at this point (and from the "parted" parts boat pictures), so I think they are screws.

And what are the pros/cons of removing them in order to reseal the actual joint with 5200. Is that what those of you who found a gap had to do to see the gap. Wouldn't that involve some serious prying and don't the liner and bulkheads prevent that to some degree? How wide would you have to make it to properly remove old caulking and put in 5200? Seems like it would be too much AND I'd really rather not, but if I ever do it, it is now.

Any thing else I should do to the joint or rails at this point?

(Right, I'm not on the water this summer)

[skyking]

Hi Denny,

When I had the toe rails off , I cleaned off all of the old calking after which, I had run two beads of a (Clear) Tri-Polymer sealant " Geo-Seal"one on the topside and one along the screwholes. I was sure to apply enough that it oozed out a bit when the screws were tightened. After it dried, I took a knife and removed the excess. Looks nice & clean...

I chose not to use the 5200 due to the strenght of it. I didnt want to have to fight it if a leak developed ? (JMT)

[skyking]

Correction to the last note,

The second bead was along the seam as well as the screw holes...

[tnc110]

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... lassNum=96

this is a great product to fill/repair any holes that might be stripped out. I just did my rails, and 1/2 the holes on the port side were shot so i filled and re drilled them all. Like sky king said, be sure to use plenty of sealant. Before I re-did mine i was getting water inside the boat...100% dry now...

I like using 5200 for a couple reasons...it has a slow cure time so you have a lot of time to work with it...I did my toe rails by my self. I tied the toe rail to a life line at the proper height, started from the front and worked my way back. Also it cleans up/wipes off nicely with 3Ms adhesive remover so you can be as messy as you want...