coring on a 22

Gus · Post by **Gus** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 11:54 am

This is the one I remember with Jeff explaining how to do it using epoxy

http://www.chryslersailors.com/discussi ... highlight=

I'm sure there are more posts and threads with info in the website.

Gus

somers12 · Post by **somers12** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 1:11 pm

Gus · Post by **Gus** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 1:33 pm

I tried to install a fishfinder pucket in my boat, and it worked when I put it in top of a zip log bag full of water, but it could not make it work using the baby oil, or the silicone method. After a while I gave up, I have ran aground hard, and nothing really ever happen, I just raise the keel up and keep on sailing.

somers12 · Post by **somers12** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 2:10 pm

Gus · Post by **Gus** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 3:15 pm

no, I gave up and took it off the boat, it never worked right. I tried in the lazzarette in the port side, next to the keel bracket.

somers12 · Post by **somers12** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 3:28 pm

Then perhaps, I will try it in the starboard compartment. I believe it's where the sink that I don't have is supposed to drain. I can put a little water and place a sandbag on the transducer to try it out. After that, if I don't hear about an uncored area, the transducer will be on the stern.

Thanks for your help
Steve

Holiday · Post by **Holiday** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 3:45 pm

I used a Humminbird in my Ensign. If the 22 is like my Chrysler 26 there is no coring in the hull. Heavy fouling will afect the sonar though. In the Ensign the first thing I did was call Humminbird. They have great customer service, actual peole on the phone and they knew the product. They have a program to trade out transducers if the one you have does not quite fit the hull. I got the puck with a 15 degree angle. This came with the epoxy to install it. Before installing the transducer puck I put it in a gallon ziplock bag full of water. Just move it around until you find a spot that works. It helps to wet the spot under the bag. Humminbird also recommended moving it away fro the keel. Remember the signao spreads out in a cone shape it has to be far enough away from the keel to keep the keel out of the that cone. I believe the slope of the cone on my DX 200 model was 1.58/1.

somers12 · Post by **somers12** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 5:49 pm

Thanks Holiday... I'll try the bag trick in different spots. Still not sure if the 22 is totally cored though. This test should help me determine if it is or not.

Steve

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 9:21 pm

FYI,

I can not imagine the HULL being cored. ANYWHERE. Now maybe the coach top but not the hull. Especially in the older boats.

Now I could be completely wrong but I would bet there is no core in the hull.

That being said, on my 75 C22, the Sette aft of the table on the port side is a perfect place for 1/2 gallon of water to slosh around. I have the anchor and rode there. Thus I simply took the transducer of my $85 hummingbird from West Marine and stuck it in the water. It works perfectly when motoring in flat water which is when I care anyway!

As long as there is no air between the transducer and the water below the hull it will work. However you may loose resolution at greater depths.

Oh yeah, when I said stuck it there I mean I simple set it on the water. It is completely free and can be removed by lifting it out of the water.

I will eventually perminently mount it. Until then, a little extra water never hurt anyone now did it?

Scott

Banshi · Post by **Banshi** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 6:19 am

I epoxied mine to the inside of the hull next to port keel bracket. The hull is not cored. But any voids in the fiberglass will prevent it from working correctly. I originally tried just in front of the keel right in the center but there must have been some voids in this area as it is very thick in this section. Works great where it is...............now if I would just pay attention to it I would have avoided grounding three time last week

somers12 · Post by **somers12** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 6:20 am

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 6:24 am

If you have a knot meter with paddle wheel, you might remove that fitting and have a look at the hull. Same with a dummy plug if there's on in the stern area. Probably good to rebed them anyway if they've never been done.

I'm pretty sure it's not cored tho.

somers12 · Post by **somers12** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 6:37 am

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 6:37 am

somers12 · Post by **somers12** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 6:54 am

Banshi · Post by **Banshi** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 7:43 am

A picture of my installation

somers12 · Post by **somers12** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 8:02 am

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 10:47 am

I hear you on the leaks !

Hull number should start with CBC (the manufacturer code from Chrysler). At the end will be a year number like "77", and a month code like "M" or such.

http://boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.htm

somers12 · Post by **somers12** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 11:46 am

Thanks EE I will check the year of my boat out. Too cold to day though. That might be good information to have on the site under it's own thread.

Thanks again... Steve

Gus · Post by **Gus** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 1:28 pm

Gus · Post by **Gus** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 1:33 pm

Banshi wrote:.....now if I would just pay attention to it I would have avoided grounding three time last week

That's the way I do it, if I see brown I turn around. I also watch the water for short choppy waves (clear indication of really shallow water) and I like to have a chart with me in the cockpit to, and the hand-held GPS

Gus · Post by **Gus** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 1:36 pm

somers12 · Post by **somers12** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 2:22 pm

Gus, Damn, six more months! I'm surprised you haven't attached a sail to some military vehicle and aren't sailing the dunes.

Stay safe man... Steve

Gus · Post by **Gus** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 3:21 pm

Well, when its windy in here, its usually sandy and dust everywhere too. I went to the main camp in Victory, and there are some nice little lakes, and I felt like building me up something to jump in the water, but after taking a good look at the waters in here, glad I didn't. Those are the lakes Sadam used to trow dead people to fed the fishes (I kid you not)

somers12 · Post by **somers12** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 11:09 am

I guess the boat is a 78

Steve

Banshi · Post by **Banshi** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 5:07 am

As a side note, I know the hull is solid because my boat originally had a thru hull transducer which I removed. I plugged the hole up, it was about a 1/2" solid fiberglass. The deck of course is balsa cored.

somers12 · Post by **somers12** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 5:54 am

Good Banshi... Verification. I based my beliefs on the different sounds between my single hull car topper fishing skiff and the 22. Definitely different sounds. Probably 'as you stated' it's thicker glass.

Thanks all... All I need now, is for this damned -32 with wind chill weather to leave, and perhaps I'll get something done.

Steve

NYCSAILOR · Post by **NYCSAILOR** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 6:40 pm

as mentioned above, anti fouling paint will defeat a in-hull transducer. I have th eoriginal thr-hull transducer and plan on removign it , sealing the hull and going witht ha in-hull' I bought the same transom mount trnasducer you guys have but I also bought a dedicated special in-hull transducer.. now the question is how to test it w/o being in the water... so I guess i need to pick a few test spots now, remove teh antifouling there and then wait for launch to play around with it and hope it works. if not then I guess I revert to screwign it to the transom and then back to a thru hull next year.. not sure how I would run the wires tot he transom mount w/out it looking real ugly

somers12 · Post by **somers12** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 8:14 pm

Let us know how that works out Okay...

Steve