Keel removal... will this work?

timlabute · Post by **timlabute** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:14 am

Hey all! Tim here.

If my future investigation warrants keel bracket replacement, do those of you who have done this think this will work?

My Plan

As my boat is on a cradle, this will differ from your trailer methods.

Step 1 - Support keel on jacks and wood rig that I will make

Step 2 - Pull pin by whatever means are required. Disconnect keel cable

Step 3 - Lower keel with jacks and wood rig until it contacts cradle cross member, seen here:

Step 4 - Use a to be determine means (read: 87 small block Caprice and a tow rope) to drag keel aft along cradle cross members seen here, sorta:

My theory: if I can move the keel aft by three feet, I should have access to the keep pin brackets and pin without actually removing the keel entirely... right?

Total keel movement from its stock location should be about 8 inches down, and three feet aft.

Questions:

1 - Do you think that will be enough to access and replace the brackets?

2 - Does anyone make the brackets anymore? Or, does anyone have an accurate drawing I can give to machine shop?

Thanks all!

timlabute · Post by **timlabute** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:27 am

I think, looking at Lady Jo, I may be underestimating how big the head of the keel is. It may need to come down a lot further than 8 inches in order to be able to move the keel aft. It depends on the shape of the keel trunk.

I will wait for you guys to throw your $0.02 before I get too far ahead of myself lol

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 11:31 am

Hi, this is Scott, I am the one who did Lady Jo.

In general your plan sounds good. Not sure I'd drag the keel though.

I can not remember specific lengths and sizes, etc but I can give you the basics.

When I lowered and moved the keel, I used a pair of floor jacks. Extreme caution must be used. Benifit is the floor jacks are on wheels and we could pretty easily roll the keel back. I did however do it on paved ground though!

Next, you can indeed roll the keel back far enough to get to the keel pins and plates.

I rolled my keel back being extremely carefull to keep the head of the keel in the keel slot in the bottom of the boat. The idea being I did not have to support the keel from flopping off to one side or the other.

I was unable to remove my pin. I simply cut it with a sawsall.

Keel brackets were made by a machine shop that specializes in marine fabrication. I provided my originals plus pictures of what and how it was used. Very pricey relative to the boat itself.

There are drawings of the brackets on line here that might help you.
go to our main page:
http://chryslersailors.com/

Follow the menu to Chrysler, dd, keel pin drawing.

Hope this helps!

Scott

timlabute · Post by **timlabute** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 11:41 am

Thanks Scott. Unfortunately the boat is in a gravel boat yard and I do not own a trailer. I am hoping to repair any drag marks after the keel is back up in its house and brackets repaired.

I am going to use the cradle cross members to create uprights of some sort stopping the keel from falling one way or the other. I also plan to keep it high enough that it stays in the keel trunk to stop that as well.

I am trying to turn the "stuck on a cradle" from a negative to a positive. If I can use the cradle to support the keel, it will save on the work involved - I hope.

My big worry is the shape of the keel trunk. As the keel gets bigger toward the front, will that bigger section slide aft, or does the keel trunk get smaller aft... know what I mean?

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 1:09 pm

Yes, I know what you mean, you do have to lower the keel, or maybe . . . . . . .raise the boat! LOL! However once low enough, the keel WILL slide back in the trunk without issue. Well, Mine did! Also, I only slid mine back far enough to access the plates and pin!
remember the trunk is shaped like the keel so the head goes up into the trunk once lowered as you see in my photos, you can keep just enough head in the trunk to keep it upright and slide it!

Scott

To bad you are so far away, Alan and I could come by and help!

Guster · Post by **Guster** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 1:10 pm

The keel trunk stays the same width all the way back, but the height of the trunk follows the shape of the keel (you can make out the shape from the inside of the boat). When I did my keel bracket I was surprised how high I had to raise the boat to get the keel out. That thing is way up there! It looks like you can only lower your keel a few inches, I don't think that will be enough to slide it back to access to the brackets. I might be wrong though.

A link to some of my photos of my keel removal an installation.

https://picasaweb.google.com/ercoupedan/C22Keel

Good luck

Dan

Alanhod · Post by **Alanhod** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 4:20 pm

Looking at your photo's, under the keel and the cradle. Put down a 1" or 3/4" sheet of plywood on the ground. Put you floor jack('s) with wheels on that. Slide the whole rig back.

Possible tip here too. The Keel pocket is kind of laying down "L" shaped as I recall. Once you drop the keel down tip the aft end of the keel up as you pull the keel aft. This should let you clear that dip in the keel pocket where the lobe sticks up in the pocket.

Also I built a frame around the Keel itself before we Jacked it and cut it loose. The frame was simple, made of 2X4 and screwed together. Strap the Keel to the frame. Then put the jacks on the Frame. The frame works like handles and should make it easier to manipulate. I think it would be a well spent 30 Min. of extra work to make moving it easier.

Other then that, in my opinion. Go get em Sir! Oh and get a few buddies to stand around and watch too. A 900Lbs. keel can always use an extra hand when you least expect it. Worst case, a few guys stand around with nothing to do.

Thanks
Alan

Thanks
Alan

mcrandall · Post by **mcrandall** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 7:20 pm

Here's the rig I used and a shot of what the keel looks like. Note the keel pin hole:

I did the "lift the boat" option. I assume your boatyard has a travel lift. Have you asked them if they can lift your boat? Not too busy this time of year, I suspect.

Alanhod · Post by **Alanhod** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:01 pm

Okay Marks Cradle for the Keel was WAY more sophisticated then my scrap rig.

Thanks
Alan

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:39 pm

Hey Alan, think of the fun we could have with that cradle! LOL!

Scott

timlabute · Post by **timlabute** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 5:18 am

Guster - you used a forklift! That's awesome!

Thanks for all the great info and pics guys. Gives me a better idea of what I am dealing with. I too think I will not be able to lower it enough to slide it backward without lifting the boat. Unfortunately, I am the furthest back boat in the boat yard. I will not be accessible by the lift until 30 or so other large boats are gone. First week of May I am told

Next year I will make sure mine is pulled last.

Anyhow... I will investigate more when I can get down there and have a better look

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 7:12 am

Just remember, what you are doing is not rocket science. It truely is pretty basic what needs done. Key thing is common sense and extreme care!

Like Alan said, have a few extra guys hanging around just in case. I did and Alan was one of those guys! He did prove to be very helpful though! I also had a couple of neighbor guys. The idea is if you need a hand or worse if there is an emergency you have enough bodies.

Scott

timlabute · Post by **timlabute** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 11:39 am

Good call. Thanks

Banshi · Post by **Banshi** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 3:14 pm

Do not under estimate the weight of the beast, it'll flatten a foot or break a leg or arm in flash. Good luck

Alanhod · Post by **Alanhod** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 4:44 pm

Okay lets not Scare the poor guy. The job is not that bad. It looks way more stressful than it really is.

We go on and on because it looks like open heart surgery. It's more like a break job just heavier and bigger. That's why you bring more guys. We push safety real hard on this forum. Honest this was a fun job to do.

Try it you'll like it I say!

Thanks
Alan

mcrandall · Post by **mcrandall** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 5:39 pm

Alan said "break" job.

Alanhod · Post by **Alanhod** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 5:49 pm

Doe... That's cuze I used my Spill Chicker!

Thanks
Alan

mcrandall · Post by **mcrandall** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 8:39 pm

hp18carr · Post by **hp18carr** » Sun Feb 17, 2013 6:32 am

Tim

Good luck on working your C22 keel, it's good to hear the excitement in your posts. The one who is getting a little nervous with all this talk about broken arms and legs is me. Sometime in the future I'm going to try and pull my C26 keel...

Tentatively at first my plan was to lift the C26 off the trailer and pull the trailer away, but now in a way like you Tim, I'm going to try to lift the C26 high enough off the trailer to use the trailer as the foundation to build my keel holder on.

Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler C26' 1980
Pandora (for now)

timlabute · Post by **timlabute** » Mon Feb 18, 2013 8:02 am

Thanks! And good call! A trailer will make a great "keel dolly" if you will. Safe too! Just need to lift the boat high enough.

I am still hoping the underside inspection reveals good news, and I can forgo the replacement parts for 2013.

On the plus side, the weather is starting to look like it is headed int he right direction, so scraping zebra muscles and inspecting keel plates is coming soon. Pics to come when that day comes