Chrysler Sailors Forum

I am trying to go through the boat and seal up any holes where water can get in. The previous owner loved using silicone and there's a number of leaks. I'm drilling out and filling with thickened epoxy where possible, or counter sinking and using butyl tape where I still need through bolting.

Right now I'm working on the cockpit locker and the aft locker against the transom. There's wood on the bottom that's been fiberglassed over and is completely waterlogged and rotted. I'd like to know whether it's factory and whether I need to replace it. I'll probably re-line the port side cockpit locker for strength incase I ever put a sharp anchor or other items that could puncture the fiberglass, but it seems overkill for the rear locker where the gas tank will live.

I'd also appreciate any tips for removing heaps of silicone, it's everywhere....

Silicon can be difficult to remove completely and nothing sticks if you don’t remove every bit of it. I think I would try scotch brite on whatever rotary tool available to you then wipe down with solvent. I’m in CO and my boat is in Sequim but I have a local 26 that I can check and I will get back to you on the situation in the lockers.
Rick SV Brigadoon

The rear locker and the port side locker were formed on a fiberglass mold. The gel coat side can be seen from inside the boat when you are lying in the rear berth. On the starboard side of the rear locker there was a piece of plywood tabbed onto the “floor” of the locker to support the weight of a portable 6-gallon gas tank. Then on the port side there is a plywood partition that separates the rear compartment from the side compartment. This partition is short enough that the outboard control cables ride over the top of it. The bottom of the port side locker is reinforced with plywood to carry the weight of the battery. On my boat I had to remove the bits of plywood that had started rotting. I filled the voids with epoxy and fiberglassed over the repaired areas with layers of heavy cloth.

Brigadoon: I couldn't find any scotch Brite for a rotary tool, but found a stripper pad. It's much stiffer and courser so I'm not sure if it'll work without cutting right through the fiberglass, but I'll give it a shot. If not, I'll see if ordering online will increase my selection options. Thanks for the advice.

Gary: My boat is/was exactly as you described. I removed the partitioner between the rear compartment and side compartment, and have started working on removing the bottom lining. I hadn't considered how much the fuel tank weighs when full and will plan on relining and glassing both compartments. I have a LiFepo4 battery that doesn't vent so it'll go down below and free up the cockpit locker. I'll put in a new divider wall to seperate the side and rear compartments, but I'll probably bias the space more towards the side compartment. I'd like to also put in a little diesel heater

Pnwsailor
Auto parts suppliers or anywhere that sells auto body repair supples will sell various grades of scotch brite pads that fit on small rotary disks. They work particularly well on a small right angle pneumatic tool that harbor freight sells. I think they sell the pads as well. I just returned from looking at my friends 26 and confirm what Gary described in the lockers as far as the wood goes. Good luck on the repairs. Rick SV Brigadoon

I’ve installed a two-battery bank down in the cabin, under the stairs. I’m not worried about the lead batteries off gassing. No one will be sealed up in the cabin while the batteries charge. I think the potential hazard is minimal. For decades car batteries have been located under the rear seat in some cars. Lots of large sailboats have their batteries under the cabin sole. The C26 port side locker is just too small to accommodate two batteries. Plus the galley already weighs down the port side of the boat. Hydrogen rises, its lighter than air. It’s impossible to get an tight seal on the sliding cabin hatch. I’m more concerned with the smell of gasoline invading the cabin from the stern locker. There is an opening on both sides at the top side corners of the locker. I’m in the process of sealing the openings off with closed cell canned foam.

I'm dealing with the same situation (among many others) and I'm planning on removing all the plywood, sanding down the fiberglass until it's flat, and setting in some kind of oak plank structure with accomodations for drainage and such.

I'm not sure how long it will last but it will be much easier to replace if it rots out.

Lllleo
Sounds like a big project. Send pictures when you can. Welcome to the forum.
Rick, SV Brigadoon