Chrysler Sailors Forum

Walt,

Most of your questions could be answered the the document section of this website, but it seems the document section is down right now. I have my C22 literature right here so I will attempt to answer below.

1: The manual doesn't call out the diameter, they list the length as 29ft each. That is if you still have the wire portion of halyards. The wire halyards are listed at 26'2". I replaced mine halyard lines a few years ago and I think I used 3/8" (maybe 1/2")

2: the manual lists the jib sheets at 40ft, so 37 should be fine.

3: I have no idea. I have never seen an all original example of a C22. I guess you will have to crawl around and follow the wires.

Good luck,
Dan

Dan, thanks for the info, that helps much. Yeah, I think I crawled all over (every inch) and still didn't find the light switches. Maybe someone else has a clue?

C22KC wrote:Dan, thanks for the info, that helps much. Yeah, I think I crawled all over (every inch) and still didn't find the light switches. Maybe someone else has a clue?

FWIW, mine are on a switch box on the port aft portion of the cabin, sharing the wall with the cockpit.

Use 3/8 line for the halyards...1/2 inch will never fit around the horn cleats on the mast.

having some electrical knowledge I'd guess that the factory equipment was a single fuse from the battery to the entire single circuit of just lights. Not sure it's original (but it kinda looks like that era) on my boat is a single 2 position pull switch. Pull pout to 1st position and the anchor light comes on. Full out is running lights. Without VHF radio or other electronics it's that simple. If those are added, fuse each one. I added a power bus on my boat to wire electronics to.

the pull switch for my nav/anchor lights is in the rear of the cockpit on port side.

Really appreciate the feedback. You both are correct about the switch in he cockpit. I suspected that might be the "master" for running lights..just like the old cars, lol... This weekend, I'm starting the project of rewiring the boat and adding a breaker panel. Looks to be fairly straight forward for the inside and instruments (adding depth, compass and marine radio). Also, since the mast is down for another 2 weeks, I'm toying with the idea of rewiring the mast - running light and adding a top anchor light. Any idea on the process of fishing new wires on the mast and difficulty level for a diy?

I removed the top mast truck that houses the halyard pulleys...it was simply attached with stainless steel pan head machine screws. I then used an electricians fish tape to fish a 5 wire plenum rated Belden wire cable into the mast. I installed nylon TyRaps every so many feet on the cable...three at each location in an approximate 120 degree pattern around the cable. This is to help keep the cable from slapping the mast sides as the boat moves side to side. I added a top plate above the pulley assembly to accommodate an Aqua Signal white all around light and also room for the Davis Windex wind vane.
I installed an Aqua Signal 5 wire deck connector...4 wires actually used to power the top anchor light and the front of the mast steaming light. One wire was a spare. Hope this helps.

Congrats on the new boat. Enjoy yourself.

Bill, thanks for the great info. BTW, I've watched some of your YouTube updates of your meticulous boat restoration, also very helpful. What did you use to cut out the access port holes, oscillating Multi-Tool? Also, just to clarify, reason for use of a 4-pin connector for the mast lights. ie, connect each of the separate 2 wires to the 4-pin male plug for each of the lights (2-masthead & 2-anchor)? Then, in the cabin, run (from the female connection) each wire to an individual dedicated switch on the fuse box?

I used a circle cutter tool that I purchased at Harbor Freight to cut the holes for the transom deck plates that I installed. I would think that the oscillating multi tool would work with the correct blade. I used the Aqua Signal deck connector because it looked like it was the best quality of the bunch. You could use a 3 wire connector and have two separate positive wires and one shared negative. I just used separate pairs because they were there. The negative wires go straight back to the negative buss in my switch panel and the positive wires go to a separate switch for steaming light and separate for anchor/all around light.
Once the wires enter the cabin, I ran them to the mast compression post and ran them down the forward outside of the post in a plastic stick on cable tube made by Wiremold. Then I ran the wires laterally to the port side along the forward side of the port bulkhead in the same kind of cable tube. My switch panel is located on the port side...all of this is shown on my video...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jjrz7L4KGE8.
Thank you for your kind comments.

Again, Very Helpful! I'm going to go at it in the same manner as your video.
Thanks Bill.

Walt

"Rotozip" tool works very well for cutting fiberglass