Chrysler Sailors Forum

Trying to plan where to put my electrical panel. .. I am planning to mount a wood panel above the read seat back cushions that would hold the VHF, the stereo, the switch panel and a voltmeter and battery switch and a cig lighter socket. However I am undecided between port , just forward of the galley or starboard . I am planning on mounting the battery in the starboard aft sette storage to counteract ten port list of the boat. And thought short main runs of heavy cable would be best for current lose. But functionally the cig lighter etc might be better used near ten galley and the galley coud serve as a chart table.. The VHF might be better starboard as it might be closer to the main hatch...... Really conflicted.. Don't want to do one on each side...double work... Any thoughts advice, pics

Also, my breaker panel has 4 circuits and I have the following loads,

Cabin lights, nav lights , steamer light, VHF, stereo, instruments, cig lighter.

Also bilge pump will be on own dedicated circuit.

So how to I a lot the 4 circuits to the 7 loads?

I (somewhat) tend to leave things off the panel if they have their own switch on the unit so..

I have my VHF dedicated also and since my cabin lights have a switch on each fixture I have those dedicated and off the panel also.

You're pretty stuck with having nav lights on a switch and steaming on another so that's two eaten up right away

hi i was going to post a picture of my power panel but it seems like the attach button to post pics is not working. how do you attach a picture to the message ???

aerojet777 wrote:hi i was going to post a picture of my power panel but it seems like the attach button to post pics is not working. how do you attach a picture to the message ???

You have to upload the pics to a site such as Photobucket, etc; and then you can link to them. Handy instructions here:

http://www.chryslersailors.com/discussi ... php?t=1373

Thanks.. A pic would be great...trying to get all the electronics organized into a nav station sort of set up...... Debating shorter wire from battery source ...to be moved to starboard. Vs. Maybe slightly better function near the galley...not sure so would benefit from some experienced users here...

here is a pic of the power panel i installed on my c26. all the dc stuff is on the right, the shore power is on the left. the dc panel has breakers for bilge pumps, depth sounder etc. the lights are fused seperately with the black switches. i put the batter selector in there as well as some LED battery indicators. i wanted the power to come here and have all my stuff packed in that cubby hole so its out of the way and up high.

hope this helps

http://s1287.photobucket.com/user/aero_ ... c.jpg.html

Keep in mind the purpose of breakers and fuses--you are protecting the wires from a short that could cause those wires to burn. You want to protect at the closest point to the source as possible. ABYC states within 7-inches, generally.

So, your main cable running from the batts should have either a fuse or ckt breaker, then a run to the panel. The panel then breaks down current requirements (by wiring capabilities) to each circuit.

So, say you need 100 amps to your panel. Put a fuse or breaker in at the batts to protect a wire of sufficient size and sheathing to handle 100+ amps. You now know that if any short happens anywhere on your system, no more than 100 amps can be drawn before that fuse/breaker blows. Your system is protected up to the panel.

Next, set-up your panel with sufficient sized breaker/fuse to handle the load allowed through each individual wire. And on and on....

General rule is to protect the source from loads down the line. That huge source known as your battery bank can easily weld, so if you have a small wire on the battery going to, say, a bilge pump--fuse it right at the source. If it shorts out somewhere, that fuse blows and the wire DOES NOT BURN.

ABYC has charts on wire sizing-both for current capability and voltage retention. What you'll typically find is voltage retention is the "long pole in the tent" when sizing wire, though more of a longer length issue. That said, a wire that can handle the current flow, may not be sufficient to maintain the voltage. Not an issue with AC, but DC is low voltage already and lengthy wire will drop voltage. The bigger the wire, the less drop. That said, if you size for voltage drop per current requirement, you're way good to go.

Glad to roll through this with anyone who would like more info. Not as confusing as it might seem. Just remember: If your source is capable of putting out more juice than your wire can handle, fuse it so that your fuse "burns" at something lower than what your wire can handle.

Excellent post Mark.

areo........WOW! what a panel...is that pic flopped or did you reverse your whole cabin galley layout? where did you put your batteries.....?

I wouldlove to do a similar setup but i feel i need to move the batteries to starbaord to counter act the port list ...but wheni actually tested the batterieson th starboard side it really didnt change the list mucch anyway.... should i even care about the portlist ?

mark, VERY helpful and informative.... does anyone know the low amperage of 12 gauge wire ...or does it depend on the length... also for our 26 ft boats what guage should we use 10 or 12 ga.

if i put the battery in the starboard settee storage i plan a short main feed run up to pthe panel but longruns backto poststerminals to the transom to connectthe outboard motorrrrr strater and charger...

does anyone know the low amperage of 12 gauge wire ...or does it depend on the length... also for our 26 ft boats what guage should we use 10 or 12 ga.

A little difficult to answer with just that info, so let me explain a couple more things.

Wire comes with temperature rating on the insulation. If you buy Anchor brand tinned wire at West Marine, you'll likely see a 105 degree symbol stenciled on it. This rating has NOTHING to do with the wire inside, just how much heat (centigrade) the sheathing can handle. Typical wire from Home Depot is likely 75 degrees.

So, what's that mean? Wire can be "driven" harder if the sheathing is up to the task. To your (and my) example, the 12 ga 75 degree Home Depot wire can safely run at 25 amps outside an engine space (18.8 amps inside an engine compartment due to the external heating of the wire by the engine), and the 12 ga 105 degree West Marine wire can handle 45 amps safely outside an engine space (38.3 amps inside).


Again, the wire inside could be identical in every manner--it's the sheathing that makes the difference in capacity.

Note: If more than a single wire is bundled or run through a conduit, the safe current level drops significantly.

mark, you taught me something... never knew that andou answered my questionspot on.... still trying to figureif it is bettertoput battteries to port andhave a shorter main 12v run to the panel by the galley or put the batteries to starboard andhave long (thicker) cable run to the galley panel or put both batteries and panel to starboard/// either way it looks like I will have terminalposts aft to connect the OB starter and charger..

hi NYCSAILOR,

sorry for the late response, i had some things pop up out of the blue...i love when that happens !!!


i put the batteries on the same side as the panel in the cockpit locker. the cable run is around 6 feet. If the wire is sized properly for the amperage it wont heat up or drop the voltage by any significant amount.

cheers

Aero, that is kinda the OEM setup.... I am hoping to counter a port list. And get two batteries down low. And to starboard, a panel by the galley or the aft most part of the salon settee back shelf on the starboard side with terminals to the cockpit locker to connect electro start OB.

What guage you running to your panel? Would 10. Guage be ok... I am leaning toward the starboard settee back for the panel.....but will have to run some pretty heavy guage aft to the OB. Connection terminals. Any ideas?

If everything is running to the max, what is the max capability of your panel? Let me know that and rough length of wire you'll run and I'll figure it for you tomorrow at work. Nothing real accurate is necessary, rough estimates is good enough. This will be a practical example of what I described above.

Thanks! I will do some research and measure this weekend.... What am I looking for....amps? Watts? Ok I forgot ohms law ....

Give me length and max amps to your panel. I'll give you the value you need, plus use it to illustrate what I was talking about above.

Cheers!

12ga. Wire is rated for 20 amp and that is80 percent of max load make sure it is proper wire not house wire single conductor stranded and shoule be tinned wire for marine.

OK, I really don't know what to do here but looks like the swithc panel & maybe battery 1+2 switch will go in the port upper "pocket" , if it all fits, and the vhf, stereo bilge and other misc. swithces will go in a new "dashboard panel" i will make and mount behind the aft port sette backs.... the two batteries will go in port aft sette storage seat ( with a proper shelf and battery box I wil have to make)...So......

I figure about 5 feet of wire from the batteries to the panel @ about 35 amps. and then the worrisome part ... the cables from the batteries to the aft locker terminal posts for the outboard starter motor / alternator... I figure about 8 feet and although I couldn't find how much the starter motor will draw when full cranking the OB ( suzuki DF 9.9) it does spec a 35 amp hour battery... so maybe it needs at least 35amps but at its peak might draw more...

Started on those shouldn't be much. What's the current output of the alternator?

Good source of marine wire and accessories is www.genuinedealz.com They also have a good voltage drop chart.

Clair

Thanks Clair...good site. ... Looks like I have to use at lest 8 awg And 10 awg. My OB alternator. Puts out 10amps. Really wanted to build a small nav statio forward of galley. For best function But wiring makes more sense on the port side above batteries... Still have to work on schematic diagram and figure out the mast wiring.

FWIW: Zypher's galley and DC wiring and cb panel are on port side. Shore power entrance, cb and AC wiring are on starboard side. All wiring installed by PO(s).

Thanks... It is worth a lot... Is river cruiser a c26? If I leave the batts in the OEM place the port location would be great...... But I have the typical port list on the boat and I figure bringing the bats. (I will put two) into the starboard aft settee storage and that means running the feed wires to the port side..... Also... The OEM antenna coax from the mast appears on the starboard side

Yes, the C26.

Single battery is in cockpit port laz. VHF is in cabin starboard side. All per PO(s).

List does not seem to bother me.