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Jack Stands

Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 11:19 am
by C22Bob
Posting a few pix of my custom jack stands that cradle my C22. Materials used :


2"x3"x1/8" square steel tubing
2"x2"x1/8" square steel tubing
1/4" x 1.25" flat steel


Welded the square tubing together and used the flat steel for a strap to cradle the boat. Total material cost was around $125 at scrap yard, so around $30 per stand not too bad for re-usable stands. They give easy access to underside for keel maintenance, etc. In one pic, you can see once the stands were under her, I lowered the trailer with keel at same time. When keel cleared the trunk, it layed over with a big thud on the trailer. Hooked a cable to the trailer and pulled it keel and all.

close-up with dimensions

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From bow with trailer and keel showing

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Straps -- second pic shows the heavy foam for padding. The ugly holes were drilled with a stick welder, which isn't exactly known for perfect drilling.
The straps are 1/4" inch steel and not likely to bend, but I put a bolt there anyway.


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ready for work

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Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 1:55 am
by Chrysler20%26
Nicely done, thank you for posting it.

jack stands

Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 5:56 am
by hp18carr
Very nicely done... I hope you don't mind if I try to put your idea to work on my secondary project a 1973 22' Oday sailboat.

Terrence Carr
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26' 1980
(Pandora for now)
Oday 22' 1973
(Old Yellow for now)

Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 10:17 am
by CaptainScott
That is a pretty nifty set up!
I like it!

Scott

Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 7:26 pm
by OutnBacker
I keep threatening to teach myself to weld. When I see this kind of thing, want to go out and get a welder and start fires in my shop.

Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 10:32 am
by C22Bob
You definitely should...not the starting a fire, but learning to weld. Stick welding is fairly easy. When you think of all the money spent on drill bits and fasteners, it pays for itself fast, and gives you a ton more creativity. Good luck, and do keep the fire extinguisher handy
:wink:

Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 7:09 pm
by OutnBacker
I talked to the shop mechanic at work (trucking company) and he offered to show me how to start fires. So, maybe I'll take him up on it. Perhaps you can tell me if one of those Lincoln welders I see around can be used on typical trailer material with good results. 110, not 220. The small one?

Thanks, John

Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 4:40 am
by C22Bob
John,

I don't have experience with the 120v Lincoln welder, and from what I see on their home page it looks more expensive than the 230V model. Mine is the AC225 model and I highly recommend it. The 230v will allow you to work easily with 1/8" electrodes and weld up to 1/2" steel plate. Also, the extra power will let you cut and drill holes in 3/8" plate.
The 120v welders only put out 90 amps at best and with that, you're stuck using 1/16" or 3/32" sticks. It should would work OK though on 1/8" or 3/16" steel like used on boat trailers. I see Northern Tool has a nice 120v welder at $179 and gets great reviews. Best of luck on whatever you decide.

Bob

Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 8:19 am
by Rivercruiser
Go w/230V AC/DC welder. You will not be happy w/120V.

Add circuit breakers to your service entrance box just as you would for an electric clothes dryer or an electric kitchen range.

I ran wiring to carport and can weld out in the open or under carport if I need shade. :lol:

I think most welders use clothes dryer type plug.

Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 9:49 am
by C22Bob
For my AC225 model I installed a 50amp breaker and used the 50A 250V NEMA 6-50R Receptacle . Very close to a clothes dryer type plug except the blades are parallel.

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Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 6:08 pm
by OutnBacker
Alright, then. It sounds like I have some pre work to do if I decide to go ahead. Harry The Wrench (at work) said I could always just bring the trailer up to the shop, which is very close to me, but I kinda would like to have a setup in my own shop.

I'll brood upon it. Thanks, guys.

John

Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 3:30 am
by richardsrow
You have done this very nicely. Once I have replaced suspension and bushing of my car,I don't have picture to post here.

Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 4:02 pm
by mcrandall
richardsrow wrote:You have done this very nicely. Once I have replaced suspension and bushing of my car,I don't have picture to post here.But You can try this link .
Looks like we have a problem, Houston.

Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 4:40 pm
by EmergencyExit
richardsrow wrote:You have done this very nicely. Once I have replaced suspension and bushing of my car,I don't have picture to post here.
Richardsrow, the link you posted didn't go where you intended, went to a commercial site for car parts not related to this subject..edited out for that reason..feel free to try again..