C22 - Rudder lock out
Posted: Thu May 16, 2013 9:27 am
Hey all. Tim here. Wanted to share something.
My rudder has a bite mark out of it from my prop, as seen here:
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I fixed my motor to the mount on the hard to get an idea of just how bad the rudder interfered with the motor if in it's fully upright position. It was only by a few inches. So...
I noticed an easy fix, and it worked quite well! Let me show you this awful pic and then explain it the best I can
[/URL]
So, imagine if you will, the red thing in the drawing is the rudder blade, the black lines are the aluminium rudder cheeks. The big green thing is the pivot bolt that hols it all together.
I noticed the pivot point is actually of center, so in effect, when you raise the rudder it does not spin true with the round shape of the cheeks. It actually goes up ever so slightly.
I measured twice, and then drilled a hole through both cheeks, inserted a small stainless bolt, with a lock nut.
Now, thanks to careful measuring, the rudder raises to a point allowing more clearance than the upright keel, but stops when it hits the new bolt. Again thanks to careful measuring, it sits about three inches clear of the prop when it is upright.
Worked out quite well
My rudder has a bite mark out of it from my prop, as seen here:
[/URL]I fixed my motor to the mount on the hard to get an idea of just how bad the rudder interfered with the motor if in it's fully upright position. It was only by a few inches. So...
I noticed an easy fix, and it worked quite well! Let me show you this awful pic and then explain it the best I can
[/URL]So, imagine if you will, the red thing in the drawing is the rudder blade, the black lines are the aluminium rudder cheeks. The big green thing is the pivot bolt that hols it all together.
I noticed the pivot point is actually of center, so in effect, when you raise the rudder it does not spin true with the round shape of the cheeks. It actually goes up ever so slightly.
I measured twice, and then drilled a hole through both cheeks, inserted a small stainless bolt, with a lock nut.
Now, thanks to careful measuring, the rudder raises to a point allowing more clearance than the upright keel, but stops when it hits the new bolt. Again thanks to careful measuring, it sits about three inches clear of the prop when it is upright.
Worked out quite well