Chrysler Sailors Forum

OK, got the boat in the air, the trailer out from under it, a sled built of 2x6 and ready to go.

First I tried to just cut it as several of you have mentioned, but my pin is stainless and it dulled three blades.

Second went inside to take the port cap off, took an hour, a drill and a chisel. The old pin is drilled and tapped, but is either a wierd thread or is metric.

Drilled a hole on the end of the stbd bracket and tried to use a drift and hammer, but the pin seems to be stuck in the brackets. it seems the corrossion has completely filled whatever gap there was, and the pin won't budge. Tried taking all of the wieght off, part way, and letting the keel hang on the pin, no change.

Any ideas on how to get a stainless pin out of rusty brackets?

Yes dear, I've take pictures the whole way, will do a post int he keel section when I get it togehter.

Wow,
sorry to hear that. My pin was also completely stuck. I decided to use a sawsall and a proper blade. It made short work of the same problem. Fortunately for me my pin i believe was aluminium. Took about 5 minutes and she was free.

Dont forget eye protection.

SCOTT

Aluminum? I wish, mine is stainless. Hard. Immediately duller three sawsall blades. and striped the threads off a SAE bolt I tried to thread in.

How would you cut a stainless round stock?

Dang!

Mine was stainless also. I pried the keel as far as it would go to one side, then used a cutting disc on a grinder. After cutting one side, pried the keel to other side and ditto I ended up with a few gouges after some kickbacks but they were an easy repair.

I also filled in the holes from the plastic plunger that is supposed to keep the keel from banging side to side an put in some home made big ol discs of UHMW. Was reading that thread this morning in the keel section in fact an saw the picts no longer show up,,, I'll fix those tonight...

Picts show up again, here's the link...

http://www.chryslersailors.com/discussi ... =7458#7458

Well, the bastard is finally out. I used a 7 inch cutoff wheel, mounted on a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder. I had tried several sawsall blades, so for giggles i tried it and yes it works at slow speed. My sawsall is single speed, so I pulsed the trigger to keep the blade speed down and cool.

I plan to glass over the snubber holes and put some sort of plastic spacer on each side to keep the keel from slamming side to side.

The rust under what was left of paint had made the keel swell up and I had to force the keel side to side to get it down out of the trunk.

Thanks for your help guys, when I get it back together I'll post a how I did it int he keel section.

You got it out good job, what worked the cut off blade grinder or the saws all at slow speed.

Awesome. The Angle grinder with the cutoff wheel was great advice. I use that for all kinds of stuff. The trouble was not knowing if you owned an angle grinder.

This all sounds so vaguely familiar..................

Own an angle grinder? Technically I own two, at least until I take the 7 inch back to sears, still new in the box. I was able to mount a 7 inch cutoff wheel on my 4 1/2 inch grinder, with the guard removed. Was a little paranoid, well out of the way, with eye protection, and a first aid knowing daughter watching.

Side note, daughter asked where the bandaids are in case I cut off a finger, had to explain to her to wrap the finger in a clean paper towel, then in a sandwhich bag, then on ice, and drive to the hospital at a reasonable speed.

I cut the old pin on both sides with the angle grinder, then tried a sawsall ont he old center pin section, with a saws all using a Milwalkee 14TPI bi metal blade about 8 inches long. Before I was just letting the saw run and it smoked the blades. When I pulsed the blade to let it run slow, it cut right through.

Tonight I drilled the STBD bracket as I measured, five of the 6 went straight in, one will require a bit of touch up. I plan to mount the stbd with 5200 and bolt it in, let it set, then line up the port, mark it drill it and mount it. I assume due to manufacturing tollerences, the stbd bracket seems to be mounted "lower" than the port, or it's been sanded down more for the who knows how many coat of bottom paint it's gotten in 30 years. I bought new 1/4 28 stainless bolts 1.25 inches long, fender washers for inside, and new nyloc nuts. I know the 5200 is overkill, but I don't EVER want to do this again.

Taking more pictures, will post a big how to when it floats.

Vary good report, glad you had some one standing by for first aid. I am a retired Ironworker, with a lot of hours using grinders. An I have the upmost respect for then. Putting a seven inch cut off wheel on a 4 1/2 grinder turns a lot of R P M. Bad things can happen vary fast.

Awesome! Glad you finally got the keel out and are back in business!


Congrats!

Scott

I don't know where the assertion that the bolt holes are not standard originated. I know that I regurgitated what I was told by Ida Sailor and others repeatedly (and their brackets were sold undrilled accordingly). So, now that it seems that they are evenly spaced and radiused around the pin, do you plan to incorporate the pattern into your drawing?

Mine had two sets of holes in the boat, drilling the SS is not that big a deal but one to many holes might be

I'll do a rev A smooth once I get the boat together, or the next rain day, which ever comes first.