Moving boat with toe rails off?? Advisable?

dennyzen · Post by **dennyzen** » Thu Mar 08, 2012 12:24 pm

I may have to move my boat from its current location in a couple of weeks. I have the toerails (and the related hardware at the bow and stern off of the boat. I have not removed the screws that hold the deck to the hull and don't plan to.

I'm thinking if I only have to move it to the other side of the boat yard (100 feet), I'm probably ok. But if I have to pack up and find a new spot, would a 5-10 mile ride at 30-40 mph be likely to cause problems without the toe rail screwed on. What do you think?

[I missed a deadline for payment, and that knocks me out of my slot and to the front of the "new person llne" which may or may not be a waiting list. But meanwhile, my old spot goes into a lottery where others already in the lot (or in other lots) get get to move into mine if they like it better.]

Might be a blessing in disguise--maybe I just need to put it in covered storage for a few months and get ALL the work on it done without bucking the weather. But moving it it is the question.

Banshi · Post by **Banshi** » Thu Mar 08, 2012 4:57 pm

I would not sweat it, I think you would have to drop it pretty hard to break it loose.

lecker68 · Post by **lecker68** » Thu Mar 08, 2012 5:17 pm

I think you will be fine as long as the hull deck joint is not broken loose.

hp18carr · Post by **hp18carr** » Thu Mar 08, 2012 8:38 pm

As long as the deck to hull screws are not removed you should be good to go. I made a green horn mistake by removing mine on the port side, after a few days while working on other parts of the boat about three feet of my deck to hull seal came loose along the center of the boat. Wan't do this on the starboard side. Thinking lots of butyl tape and longer screws on toe rail reinstallation... any thoughts on this fix from the forum?

Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler C26' 1980
Pandora (for now)

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Sat Mar 10, 2012 6:49 am

My initial idea would be to try the hardware stud that is a screw on the bottom and bolt thread on top. use one of these in 3 holes, leaving holes between each one. the nut with a flat washer can be used to pull the seam back together and then install the correct screws in the empty holes between the studs. Once done the studs can be removed, the holes filled and screws placed in them as well.

I'd love to hear other options, I like to see how your minds work!

Paul

Banshi · Post by **Banshi** » Sat Mar 10, 2012 7:51 am

How about a 2" tie down strap with ratchet wrapped around the entire hull at the point where you need to squeeze it back together?

hp18carr · Post by **hp18carr** » Mon Mar 12, 2012 5:18 am

Thanks for the ideas, been out of town the last couple of days. The fiberglass lip over the hull joint (on mine anyway) seems somewhat fragile. I feel it may be best to just fill the gap than to take the chance of breaking off the lip at the loose points.

Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler C26' 1980
Pandora (for now)

sauerleigh · Post by **sauerleigh** » Mon Mar 12, 2012 1:51 pm

Any pictures Terrence? That joint and I have spent lots of time together.

hp18carr · Post by **hp18carr** » Mon Mar 12, 2012 4:34 pm

Sauerleigh
I remember some of your old post... very detailed. Give me a couple of days to take a photo or two and I'll start a new post under one of the work topics. This may not be a big deal, but it sure terrified me when I first saw it.

Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler C26' 1980
Pandora (for now)

mcrandall · Post by **mcrandall** » Tue Mar 13, 2012 8:20 am

Wow, guess I dodged a bullet! I not only have had my toerails off for quite some time, I've traveled some 40 miles each way in that condition.

Also, I pulled out the caulking under that lip and replaced it with a polyurethane. (Shot it up into the slot with a pneumatic grease gun with a flattened brass nipple for a nozzle--see previous post/pics.)

I DID travel with a couple 2-inch tiedowns to strap it to the trailer.

dennyzen · Post by **dennyzen** » Tue Mar 13, 2012 6:58 pm

Turns out that though my current spot, my "dry dock" on the trailer in the boatyard, was picked up by someone else in the lottery. To my amazement, the process left one open about 60 feet away. No problem! And it is that much closer to the electrical outlet.

My wet spot, alas has changed. Lost a nice dock slip which was 30 minutes from my door to cast off. Had to settle for a buoy spot further down the lake. It adds almost an hour to the process--including a rowboat trip to the boat --and you have to bring the the rowboat back before leaving the cove to sail. Maybe I can get back on the dock next year.

It will be summer before I am in the water, so it will all work out.

Caulk job in that joint to commence this weekend, weather permitting. McRandall--I am copying your glue tool.

Chrysler Sailors Forum

Moving boat with toe rails off?? Advisable?

Moving boat with toe rails off?? Advisable?

toe rail

Yeh! Don't have to move, not much anyway.