Fiberglass Hatch
Fiberglass Hatch
What do you do about the clear/yellowish fiberglass on the hatch to spruce it up a bit??? I'd like something smoother and glossier. Can you lightly sand it and apply fiberglass resin? Or is there a better way?
Brian
1978 Chrysler C-20
Des Moines, IA
1978 Chrysler C-20
Des Moines, IA
- CaptainScott
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I presume you mean a forward hatch that pops up? Or the sliding hatch?
These are translucent to allow light in the boats. Only finish I've seen other than a good cleaning is some folks actually paint them. They look great but you loose some light. I'm not sure it makes a huge difference if you have lighting inside anyway!
Scott
These are translucent to allow light in the boats. Only finish I've seen other than a good cleaning is some folks actually paint them. They look great but you loose some light. I'm not sure it makes a huge difference if you have lighting inside anyway!
Scott
Scott, it's the sliding hatch. It has the translucent fiberglass inserts. It's kind of yellowish and rough looking. I was wondering about just putting a few coats of clear fiberglass resin to allow the lighting to come through but give it a smoother finish. Or maybe a clear high gloss varnish??? Not sure if varnish can be used on fiberglass. There are some clear paints also. Not sure which would be the best.
Brian
1978 Chrysler C-20
Des Moines, IA
1978 Chrysler C-20
Des Moines, IA
- CaptainScott
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I used epoxy on mine. Mine was a bit "thread-bare" so I "painted" those sections on top with West Systems epoxy. It re-soaked the exposed glass and provided a nice smooth surface and amber color.
I then took some of the same epoxy, thinned it a bit with acetone, and painted the underside of the hatches as well. Again, sealed up the glass mesh nicely with a smooth surface. This area was somewhat moldy when I first bought the boat. Not that MY boat will get moldy again, but this surface is much easier to clean.
I then took some of the same epoxy, thinned it a bit with acetone, and painted the underside of the hatches as well. Again, sealed up the glass mesh nicely with a smooth surface. This area was somewhat moldy when I first bought the boat. Not that MY boat will get moldy again, but this surface is much easier to clean.
Mark
http://s1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc4 ... ew%20C-22/
1975 C-22 currently named Stardust (soon to be "Angela Marie")
http://s1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc4 ... ew%20C-22/
1975 C-22 currently named Stardust (soon to be "Angela Marie")
hatch
As you can see my old forward hatch was in need of being reworked. The translucent sections were painted way back when. Unless you really need the extra light painting them does not look that bad.
![Image](http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab131/hp18carr/IMAG0204.jpg)
![Image](http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab131/hp18carr/IMAG0246.jpg)
Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26' 1980
Pandora (for now)
![Image](http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab131/hp18carr/IMAG0204.jpg)
![Image](http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab131/hp18carr/IMAG0246.jpg)
Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26' 1980
Pandora (for now)
paint
Brian
The paint I've used up to this point has been Rust-Oleum Topside.
(1) primed with Rust-Oleum marine white primer for wood and fiberglass after a good cleaning.
(2) Painted the old translucent sections with Rust-Oleum Battleship gray gloss.
(3) Painted the remainder of the hatch with Rust-Oleum Oyster white gloss.
Rust-Oleum Topside is not known as one of the top marine paints... but it has done well for me to this point.
Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26' 1980
Pandora (for now)
The paint I've used up to this point has been Rust-Oleum Topside.
(1) primed with Rust-Oleum marine white primer for wood and fiberglass after a good cleaning.
(2) Painted the old translucent sections with Rust-Oleum Battleship gray gloss.
(3) Painted the remainder of the hatch with Rust-Oleum Oyster white gloss.
Rust-Oleum Topside is not known as one of the top marine paints... but it has done well for me to this point.
Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26' 1980
Pandora (for now)
I may end up painting mine over this next spring, haven't decided. Light isn't that big of a deal in my book--you just don't get THAT much from it. My goal in using the epoxy was to get a strong reseal where I was seeing wear and tear.
Always liked the look Terrence got with his paint job on the hatches. Mine (C-22) don't have any hardware or handholds on them, so I'll have to think about how I want the finished product to look.
Guess, to me, the amount of light you get from them just isn't that significant in the decision process. A nice little amber glow that's overcome from the open hatch and ports, I've never been closed up in the cabin so that it was that noticeable.
Always liked the look Terrence got with his paint job on the hatches. Mine (C-22) don't have any hardware or handholds on them, so I'll have to think about how I want the finished product to look.
Guess, to me, the amount of light you get from them just isn't that significant in the decision process. A nice little amber glow that's overcome from the open hatch and ports, I've never been closed up in the cabin so that it was that noticeable.
Mark
http://s1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc4 ... ew%20C-22/
1975 C-22 currently named Stardust (soon to be "Angela Marie")
http://s1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc4 ... ew%20C-22/
1975 C-22 currently named Stardust (soon to be "Angela Marie")
Opinion only here.
The more in-direct, electric free light inside, the better. I like my translucent strips in my fore and aft hatches. Gives me a warm light inside even on grey days here in the Seattle area.
I think I would try Mcrandall idea with a clear fiberglass resin or epoxy to seal and smooth it up.
I have no problem with anyone painting there's though. Terrence's hatch looks fantastic painted up! Better than new looking to me.
Thanks
Alan
The more in-direct, electric free light inside, the better. I like my translucent strips in my fore and aft hatches. Gives me a warm light inside even on grey days here in the Seattle area.
I think I would try Mcrandall idea with a clear fiberglass resin or epoxy to seal and smooth it up.
I have no problem with anyone painting there's though. Terrence's hatch looks fantastic painted up! Better than new looking to me.
Thanks
Alan
It's a good life on the
Honu, 1976 C-22
My Chrysler Sailing Photos: http://s1297.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... ry/Sailing
Honu, 1976 C-22
My Chrysler Sailing Photos: http://s1297.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... ry/Sailing
warm lighting.
Don't get me wrong if you like your translucent sections do what you can to keep them. The translucent hatch sections on my project boat were painted long before it came to me... I was just working with what I had. Who knows... if I still had them I too may have kept them, like Alan warm lighting is always welcomed.
Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26' 1980
Pandora (for now)
Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26' 1980
Pandora (for now)
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Fiberglass Hatch Slides
I removed the sliding hatch off the boat and refinished the wood guides. Where can I find replacement plastic slides that prevent the glass from eating through the deck?
Thanks,
B.
Thanks,
B.
We are so blessed
- EmergencyExit
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Re: Fiberglass Hatch Slides
" Where can I find replacement plastic slides that prevent the glass from eating through the deck?"
Some forum guys have used products from McMaster Carr
start here
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plast ... ts/=r4ydws
and search for "Impact-Resistant Slippery UHMW Polyethylene"
Some forum guys have used products from McMaster Carr
start here
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plast ... ts/=r4ydws
and search for "Impact-Resistant Slippery UHMW Polyethylene"
-
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sun Jun 24, 2018 4:45 am
Re: Fiberglass Hatch
I removed both the forward hatch and the sliding hatch an did a light paint over the entire thing to give it a cohesive look. Still allows some light to come through and looks great!