Chrysler Sailors Forum

Not specific to chryslers:

How do you measure the amount of line needed for a jib sheet? What size and type of line do you use?

Do the jib sheets go outside (over?) the safety lines/rails or inside/under them, or does that depend on the boat's point of sail? And how do you keep the bow pulpit rail from interfering with the headsail?

What about halyards? What type of line?

Dingy towing? What type of line, legnth, and how do you make a tow harness/bridle.

Ok Darin,
I'll give some of that a shot.

Rule of thumb that I was taught for jibsheets.
1.5xLOAx2=sheet length. ie: 1.5x22x2=66
some like them longer.
I bought 100' and split it.

The rail thing is tricky also: most are imboard of lifelines. I can remember my father switching them inboard/outboard on off tacks on our pearson growing up. That was mainly for heavy reaching and downwind play.

The pulpit has been sicussed many times by many of us.
This is how I roll:
1 large 75mm block attached where the jib tack would normally attach.
I piece of 5/8'' sheet line, approx. 4' in length. this line is tied with a bowline hitch to the tack-eye of the sail, passes through the block and on to the foredeck cleat. hope this is not confusing. I then, using this ant the jib halyard can reach and close haul, while avoiding the chafe of the pulpit.

There are other methods for all this. I hope all my brothers on here will weigh in in a classic Chryslersailors debate. There are so many great idea men on here.

As has been said I prefer 2X LOA per sheet so when I replace my jib sheets I am going to use 26X2 X2 as I will use 1 line half to each side 7/16 line. if I use my 170 genoa it fill my furler and bow pulpit hits on a downwind or beam reach when I have it close hauled jib is inside life lines and sheets run outside life lines with my 150 the luff is shorter and I use a line at the bottom of the jib to raise it. Other than that to each his own. Find what works for your boat and all sheets should be low stretch.

on my 26 with a 150 furling genny the sheets are outside the lifelines running back to snatch blocks on the toerails, then back to the turning block, winch then the cleat.
Unless you have an inboard track or running a working jib you'll likely have to do the same.
I clip the forward end of my lifelines down to the toerail and don't worry too much about the pulpit.
One advantage to the narrow beam is we can still maintain good sheeting angles outside the stays!

70' of 3/8" Salsa here, connected to the clew using a cow hitch (Lark's Head) to minimize hangup on the shrouds, lead outside of everything. Sta-Set works fine but tended to get hockled in the turning blocks.

I don't have roller furling, but I run my sjib heets inside the life line on the 90% and outside the life line on the 110. seams to work well with the cut of the sails.