Chrysler Sailors Forum

First off, congratulations. Y'all are gonna have a blast sailing this thing. Fairly responsive, weather helm readily transmitted through rudder, LOTS of fiberglass (read: bulletproof). I've never heard of anyone broaching or turtling one, though enough of us have tried. A very solid daysailer.

The only inherent problems of which I am aware are the swing keel brackets (if you have the swing keel version). They rust, and then they leak. Just watch out for water in the bilge; that's the first sign. Some of us have had to have new ones fabricated.

Another item to look for is the deck hardware holding the side and spreader stays to the deck. If they are a bow eye and have a small "WC" logo (the "C" is layered over the "W"), then it's one of the original Wilcox-Crittendon bow eyes which are not made anymore. The issue here is simply metal fatigue. We've had two of these literally snap off at the threaded shank. This is an easy fix if you're willing to cough up $25.00 for a new one so they will fit in the original holes and will look like the other. Like I said before, they don't make them anymore, but the remaining stock was purchased by a Canadian company.

To my knowledge, that's really it as for any "problems" inherent to the C22. Good luck and have fun!

Congrats on buying the C22! I bought one this summer and overall very happy with it.

Swing keel brackets are the big one, but not too big.

Check the condition of the keel cable and make sure it is the right material and condition.

Check for hidden rot in the motor mount. Replace if there is any question. I lost a motor that way! Add a stainless steel motor safety cable.

Some smaller ones are, especially if single handing.

1. Jib sheets getting hung on the foreward deck hatch and unused horn cleats on the mast should be watched for.
2. Lowest few jib hanks getting hung up on forward stay adjustment hardware during raising of the jib.
3. Mainsail slides falling out of the mast entry slot.
4. Incomplete dropping of the head sail.

See my posts and pictures on single handing on this site for help.

I am assuming you have this boat out of the water if you're working on the rudder lines.

There is a small bolt around whose shank the rudder lines run; this is to provide the leverage of moving rudder up and down. I pulled the bolt off and put a series of nylon "spacers" over the shank of the bolt to reduce shafe on the ropes. I think I spent $1.79 at Lowe's.

Lastly, don't overtighten the bolt that holds the rudder. I did, and now I have to use a boat hook to get rudder moving down.