Chrysler Sailors Forum

Well,
I took the first step of making a dedicated gin pole for Lady Jo my C22.


You might ask why when the boom works just fine. Well, in short . . . . I'm lazy.


The boom system works great but indeed has a draw back or two. Main drawback is I use existing boat pieces and parts. This is great for a very tight budget however a bit of a pain in the but to have to get the jib sheets off the jib, Jib blocks off the toe rail, set the boom up, align all the lines properly, and then step the mast. The other drawback is that stupid 3" pin that just seems to dissapear at the most inoppertune times. Yeah, I know, nothing hard here but it takes me alone about an hour to go from road ready to water ready and another hour to go back. Hmm, that is two hours in addition to drive time to and from the launch. Well, if I sail in the evenings after work, that is a huge chunk of time to get eaten up. With practice I'm sure I can cut some of that time down. However we still have the initial problem. I'm lazy.

So, that being said, yesterday I bought an 8' section of schedule 80 aluminum pipe. Aluminum is very light and very strong. Total cost was 38 bucks including the Governers share. I believe I can purpose build a gin pole for under 100 bucks that I can get set up in literally 10 minutes instead of an hour.

How can I save so much time you might ask? Well, the gin pole will have dedicated and strategically mounted eyebolts and blocks along with permanent perfectly prefitted lines for each necessary area. My system will mimic the factory system with minor changes since it works extremely well when set up properly.


Well, that is my thoughts anyway.
Anyone here with experience with custom poles and wants to chime in, I'm all ears!

Scott

I've seen a pic or descrip somewhere of a dedicated gin pole somwhere, but I can't come up with it.

If I had to step EE's mast frequently, I'd sure do the same thing.

A dedicated gin pole is something that I have been considering as well. My boat is a 75 C-22 and I have all the parts for stepping the mast, but the aluminum in the boom looks tired, and the mast foot is cracked around the hole for the 3" pin. I think that the mast had been raised in the past without even tension on the gin pole, and the mast was lifted mostly by the pin and the boom. That is a lot of stress. Found out last year that the pin can fall into the boom. I keep my boat in a slip, but evey time I step the mast, it seems like a new adventure. I am afraid that the gin pole method will break parts that are hard to fix. I saw a rig that jmckamey designed that will will work from two fixed points and uses the forestay. We thought that it would work real well on the toe rail. It is very straightforward, and doesn't use boat parts, just two poles that can be carried on the trailer. I haven't had a chance to try it yet, but I hope to this weekend.

Carl

I'm planning on making a dedicated Gin pole too. My dad and I always sailed the 22 together, we just walked mast without a gin pole. In our opinion it was much easier then all the setup with the gin pole. But now, I'm sailing alone or with my bride. Muscling it up is just not an option anymore.

So I'm all ears too. Would like to see what other have done.

Dan

I'm still using the boom as the gin pole but I have created all custom bridal lines with caribeners to attach quickly to the mast and boom, along with a leader for the gin pole, jib hailard, main sheet connection.
I think we are down to about 1/2 hour to rig with this set up...but time flies when your having fun

Just last weekend I watched some guys use a spinnaker pole for a gin pole on a Santa Cruz 27. They had a ring mounted at the base of the mast, and just clipped everything into the jaws.

They took awhile setting it up, because the did not have a pre-made harnes and had to tie lines everwhere. But I think, with a proper harnes, it would hook up really fast.

Well, it sounds like a lot of interest here so I will document what I do. If it works as well as I hope I will post it!

IF it breaks, falls, or otherwise damages anything, I'll simply deny this thread ever existed!!!! LOL!

Scott

I'm in the same boat as Carl,

Having a slip means we do that twice a year,, and it could go quicker, takes us an hour and a half now... and each time I wish I had a dedicated gin pole!!

I'll be waiting to copy your plans,, if it works

Made mine from an old boom spar, split it in half and added a splice pipe inside so I could store it in my short bed truck locked up away from aluminum thieves.

Hi Guys,
Thought I would chime in. I made a "gin" pole from the very start. used the boom the first time and said this is crazy. (for times sake)
I actually use a side rail from an old iron bed. About 6' long pipe. Drilled in the eye bolt for my straps (bridle). I have a pc of 18" chain to hook the rigging to it. Works great.
I have my wife at the bow and I am right by the pole and we both pull the mast together. We use it many times.

Ahoy Mates!

Well I thought I'd bump this thread again after another day using the boom to raise the mast last weekend. Capt Scott did you post the picts somewhere an I just missed them??

We're finally on the water again!! Pam decided we need to get into beekeeping and chickens ; ) So the last month was learning about then building 2 hives and a chicken coop with a run an getting the critters settled in... She is now my dedicated boat wench for the rest of the summer to get working on the project boat an some sailing too!



Billy

I did a write up on stepping the mast they way Chrysler envisioned! I do not have photos of the dedicated pole however it is simply a round aluminum pipe I picked up at the local shop. Works great!

Here is the link describing stepping the mast:
http://www.captainscottsailing.com/php/ ... heMast.php

Scott

Thanks Scott!

Curious what you used to get rid of the 5/8" pin and secure the pole to the mast??

With the custom pole I made I capped the end of the pipe. Drilled a hole through the end at the center and ran a bolt through. So in essence the pin still exists however it is now permanently part of the pole.


I no longer need to find the pin or worry it might go into the hole and disappear!

Scott

I've seen Capt Scott's contraption. Works like a dream. Me? I'm like the guy who, upon seeing the success that a beaver has chewing down trees, does the same. By the third launch of the season, I've got the boom method down pat, in under 25 minutes, but the dedicated gin pole is the way to go for all the reasons listed under "Equipment Loss and Failure."

A word about the length of the pole if any one is going to make one: Although a shorter pole is easier to handle, the longer you can make it the better for mechanical advantage within the first 30 degrees of lift, when most of the lateral stress is still on the mast step assembly, trying to rip it off the house top and slide it forward.

I can't help but think that these rigs were not built for stepping and unstepping on a very frequent basis, but rather, for doing it a few times a season or just a couple between moorings.

Anyway, I have sold my 22 in the last few days, but may be back in the Chrysler Club Lounge shortly, if the planets line up...

John

I made a long pole and it works well. For the pin I had the pole hole drilled out to take a deep well socket. That way when I lose track of the pin I can get a fast replacement at the hardware store tool display. For cranking up the mast, I'm using a 4:1 block set but want to put in a brake winch, similar to what we use to control the keels on our boats. Sometimes it might be nice to be able to leave the pulley-hauley end to clear rigging without having to tie off the line. Pole length runs from the mast step to the bow cleat so that the blocks and lines are 90 degrees to the deck when the mast is all the way up.

I keep a spare mast pin somewhere deep inside EE's boom..

That's my story and I'm sticking to it...

As always great advice!

Now to get one made before taking out this Fall!

EmergencyExit wrote:I keep a spare mast pin somewhere deep inside EE's boom..

That's my story and I'm sticking to it...

I had one stored in a similar fashion on Lady Jo I !!!! LOL!
Scott

I found a 3/8" socket extension works fine in a pinch, as a pin

I used the 3/8 socket extension method last weekend. It worked just fine.

I see the posted drawings show the use of 1/8" cable. Is that really necessary? It looks like I could also get away with some inexpensive galvanized/zinc plated caribiners for latching it together. I was thinking of using 5/16 or 3/8 line which would be salvaged from an old jib line from our 470.

I am close to catching up with soooo many home projects, and think that I will have time to get the boat into the water within the next week. Last year, I paid someone to step the mast (using a crane) for me. I need to do this for myself.

br-549 wrote:I see the posted drawings show the use of 1/8" cable. Is that really necessary? It looks like I could also get away with some inexpensive galvanized/zinc plated caribiners for latching it together. I was thinking of using 5/16 or 3/8 line which would be salvaged from an old jib line from our 470.

I am close to catching up with soooo many home projects, and think that I will have time to get the boat into the water within the next week. Last year, I paid someone to step the mast (using a crane) for me. I need to do this for myself.

What drawings? Not seeing them. If you are refering to the bridles, then 1/8 is sufficient, even though I used 3/16 - that's just what I had on hand. Galv is fine. There isn't alot of stress on the bridles in operation. For line, I used ordinary nylon, but found it too stretchy in wind. If I did this exercise again, I would opt for dacron because you are making the bridles forever, so why not?

Shackles go to holes 23 and 32 on the toe rails. Be careful when measuring for the thimble location in the middle of the bridles. That hole/loop needs to be aligned with the pivot point at the bottom of the mast - within about 1/2 inch. You sould be able to put a broom stick thru the bridle thimbles and have it lay flat across the top of the tabernacle, just at the hook.

With apologies to the originator of this drawing, here is a corrected edit, showing what I believe is a more clear understanding of the bridle measurements for best results. The stated dimensions are correct and should be used, but the shacles - not the cable thimbles - are the terminus points. I erased the quick links and drew in shackles.

You can also forgo having to measure for and make the loops by using a length of small chain and carbiner clips..built in loops and highly adjustable

I like the chain idea...thanx EE...although I already have the cables made up...too late for me.

EmergencyExit wrote:You can also forgo having to measure for and make the loops by using a length of small chain and carbiner clips..built in loops and highly adjustable

Good idea - especially the carabiners.

OutnBacker wrote: Good idea - especially the carabiners.

Thanks ! I was feeling lazy that day, and sometimes that is the mother of all invention !