Trying out a paint strip product.
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Trying out a paint strip product.
No commercial intent here - just posting for those who may need to remove poly paint one day - am trying out a product called "Ready Strip". You can also buy "Aqua Strip" at the marine stores, but I don't see any difference except about half the price and the one word on the label. Says it removes up to 7 layers safely, no MEK, etc.
Did a sample square today, and it worked well enough that I'm going to do the whole boat this weekend. Will let you all know how it goes.
Did a sample square today, and it worked well enough that I'm going to do the whole boat this weekend. Will let you all know how it goes.
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Terrence your hull below the water line looked like mine on the C-22 and if so you sould just use a razor scraper and paint thinner to remove the old paint...you would be suprised how easy it just wipes off with thinner.
I have used chemical stripper on cars before and know you really want to make sure the surface has been cleaned very well not to trap residue behind that will create small bubbles after a hot day. with the fiberglass being more pourus then metal I would was the hull a few good times letting it dry a few days in between. (I tell people around my shop its very nasty stuff but it will get the job done)
I have used chemical stripper on cars before and know you really want to make sure the surface has been cleaned very well not to trap residue behind that will create small bubbles after a hot day. with the fiberglass being more pourus then metal I would was the hull a few good times letting it dry a few days in between. (I tell people around my shop its very nasty stuff but it will get the job done)
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Terrence I'm only removing a layer or two of unknown type topside paint so I won't be able to test that. However, the Aqua Strip version blurb claims -
"Environmentally safe, biodegradable, nonflammable marine stripper safely removes multiple layers of antifouling paints, varnishes, polyurethanes, enamels, teak oils, nonskid deck coatings, latex, and more in one application! Odor-free, and cleans up with water. Can be applied with brush, roller, or spray on fiberglass, wood, aluminum, and gelcoat. Contains no methylene chloride or caustic agents."
"Environmentally safe, biodegradable, nonflammable marine stripper safely removes multiple layers of antifouling paints, varnishes, polyurethanes, enamels, teak oils, nonskid deck coatings, latex, and more in one application! Odor-free, and cleans up with water. Can be applied with brush, roller, or spray on fiberglass, wood, aluminum, and gelcoat. Contains no methylene chloride or caustic agents."
paint striper
Thanks for all the insight guys... I'm not looking forward to this part of my overhaul, but when it comes I do want to do right. On a bottom of this age will I need to work my way completly down to the fiberglass?
Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26 1980
Pandora (for now)
Terrence
Wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26 1980
Pandora (for now)
Banshi
The reason why I'm asking, there are some places where the old paint has not adhered to the fiberglass... flaking off. It maybe old patch work improperly done, being new to this I'm just speculating. In the pic below is this down to bare fiberglass or just patch work?
Terrence
wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26 1980
Pandora (for now)
The reason why I'm asking, there are some places where the old paint has not adhered to the fiberglass... flaking off. It maybe old patch work improperly done, being new to this I'm just speculating. In the pic below is this down to bare fiberglass or just patch work?
Terrence
wilmington N.C.
Chrysler 26 1980
Pandora (for now)
Yeah looks like someone took it down past the gel coat in this area, depending on whether you intend to keep it in the water all the time or not you should use a coat of waterproofing paint first to prevent osmosis from occurring in this area. If you plan to keep it on a trailer I would not worry about it as long as the patch/repair looks sound.
Paint is a general term covering many different products, the paint you would use as a final coat is not sufficient if you keep your boat in the water for extended periods, it won't melt (except for some defowling paints) but it will allow water to penetrate and damage the glass structure below. Even a two part epoxy will allow water through if left submerged for extended periods. They make special waterproofing "paints" to prevent this. Look up interlux for starters to get an idea what you need. Like I said if your boat is never going to be in the water for more than a few days a good two part epoxy paint will be fine in my opinion, otherwise you need to reestablish the water tight coating.
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We are about to find out - heading out to buy a gallon, roll it out, and wait a few hours to see...hoping to strip it today, wash and sand some, then sand more and prime Sunday, then get a coat on Monday, and one on Tuesday. This isn't big ole EE, its the Cal 21' so it is a lot smaller project...if it goes well EE will be next. Will take plenty of pics.
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Well, it works pretty good. I tried to stretch it to about twice the recommended coverage (50sf/gal) and it worked good, a bit of push with the scrapper needed.
However on a few areas I laid it on very thick, about what I thought was intended by the coverage figure, and the paint all but fell off by itself.
Here's a sample
However on a few areas I laid it on very thick, about what I thought was intended by the coverage figure, and the paint all but fell off by itself.
Here's a sample
As you scrap and toil remember it could be worse..........http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCp4mGZ3 ... ure=digest
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