Starting the rudder repair

gregcrawford · Post by **gregcrawford** » Tue Nov 24, 2009 4:08 am

My aluminum rudder assembly was cracked in four places, bent in a couple more, and the rudder blade flopped around in the cheeks. I have removed the rudder and taken it apart. The pivot bolt hole in the blade was wallowed out, so I plan to epoxy in a delrin bushing to bring it back to size. Water also dripped out of the bottom, so some patch work is in order. I purchased two pieces of 11 gauge stainless and a piece of 1-1/2 stainless tube. I have laid out the cheeks and drilled the holes. Now to cut the circles with a friend's plasma cutter and weld it back up. I will post pictures when I get a chance.

PO's had gooped a lot of 5200 around the rudder through hull, so it may be leaking. I plan to remove the rudder through hull and inspect or replace. Definitely need to replace the hose as it is age checked around the clamps.

Has anyone replaced their through hulls/rudder hose? Is it as hard to do as it looks?

Andiron120 · Post by **Andiron120** » Tue Nov 24, 2009 7:40 am

Yes it is, but as long as you can find someone small and agile to do the inside work, it is not so bad. I had to take the inch and a half through hulls to a local machine shop and have them fitted to the rudder post, ID was to tight. Next time I work on this I am going with stainless through hulls so they will not be subject to cracking in case of a hard grounding or trailering accident. The hose is easy to get from anyplace that handles parts for heavy equipment, pricey but easy to find. Be sure to use all stainless hose clamps, some are not.

Gus · Post by **Gus** » Tue Nov 24, 2009 9:17 am

PVC pipe and epoxy. I did it in 2006, never had a problem again!

FranS · Post by **FranS** » Tue Nov 24, 2009 9:23 am

Same with us, but the space is a B$%&h to get into!

gregcrawford · Post by **gregcrawford** » Tue Nov 24, 2009 5:38 pm

What did you do with PVC pipe and epoxy? I remember seeing something about that online before I bought the boat, but I can't remember where.

I was at West Marine today, and the Forespar marelon through hull I saw won't have much meat left after it is bored out to 1-1/2".

If I go that route, I will machine a whole new through hull from UHMWPE and make the wall thicker.

Paul the Denverite · Post by **Paul the Denverite** » Wed Nov 25, 2009 7:51 pm

The plans I have show 1/8" SS plate. Is 11ga close to or the same thing? I'm asking because I need to do the same build eventually.

gregcrawford · Post by **gregcrawford** » Fri Nov 27, 2009 5:06 pm

The supplier I used had 11 gauge but no 1/8". 11 gauge is about .120", so it is only .005" thinner than 1/8, and so much stronger than the factory aluminum.