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Rudder through Hull Tunnel Question?

Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 3:45 pm
by Alanhod

Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 3:52 am
by Mario G
This seems to be another commen problem. Last time out I found I was getting drips from the tube clamp area. I shouldn't expect any different as my boat did sit 15 yrs neglegted.

I'm going to be looking at it much closer this next outing.

I hope someone has found a great fix for this or is the radiator hose it?

Can you over calk? the 3M 5200 seems like great sealent, I just haven't let my boat dry long enough to use it....lol this is the last thing below water line,

Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 5:42 am
by NYCSAILOR
Alan,

You read my mind.... I am sitting with exactly the same issue. the OEM hose is just fine after I replaced th rusty clamps wiht fresh stainless ones.... and funny Mario, since as a precaution, I did just what you describe... I used 5200 in there (alot) at top and bottom of hose as a attempt to provide some firewall against a potential leak.... but though it has not leaked -- it is 30 years + old and does keep me up at night.

If I am going to mess with it, I agree with Alan, I would like to do it once and for all and make sure it is a tried and true straighforward fix...it can sink the boat and it is so damn tight in there, you really only wnat to do this once and not have it become a regular maintnece problem...

Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 12:40 pm
by tgentry
I examined my "hose" pretty carefully and it seemed in fine shape. Although 30 years old, it is not subjected to high heat, pressure or UV so I see no reason to replace it.

If I did replace, I would probably use something as close to original as possible for two reasons. It's simple and it lasted 30+ years! You might also want to consider how well marine growth clings to PVC and fiberglass vs. rubber. I don't know the answer to that question, but I haven't heard of problems with barnacles in the stock hose.

Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 12:43 pm
by Mario G
I did notice the hose clap was rusted and planed on installing a new stainless just before next outting. I have all the confidence that my boat is very safe to sail but keep track of everything to keep it this way.

Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:18 pm
by Gus
I did the PVC replacement (I don't know if someone else came up with that or what, but I haven't seen it)

I did it back in 2006, after two sailing trips with water in the cabin thanks to the leaking radiator hose. I did replace mine with a new one, new clamps, the whole 9 yards, and it still leaked, so I replaced everything with PVC.

Its hard to get under the top plastic bearing, so what I did to fix that was to overlap a little bit of the PVC pipe coming out of the cockpit sole, made a fillet of thickened epoxy all around, and then I applied some fiberglass mat inside and out of the PVC pipe.

In the bottom I did the same, but I didn't needed to overlap the PVC pipe. I measured it and cut it straight. I had to enlarge the bottom hole a little bit with a dremel tool to make it to 2 inches.

After that, I wet the whole thing and applied fiberglass mat to hold the PVC pipe in place. After that, I epoxied the bottom rudder bearing, and that was it. Its not that difficult to do.

I have to make a drawing, its getting complicated to explain with words.

Gus

Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 5:47 am
by NYCSAILOR
gus...please do a diagram when you get a chance...it would help many of this..do you notice any cracking since the pvc pipe in now rigid.. also does your set-up get rid of the thru hull? do you still use the OEM bearings?

Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 10:35 am
by Gus
No, still solid as a rock, and I've been in rough weather to test it out. I used the OEM rudder bearings, I just epoxied them to the PVC pipe. If it gives, I guess it'll give in the cockpit first (I used a ton of epoxy and fiberglass in the bottom)

Gus