Chrysler Sailors Forum

I need a thru hull fitting for my c22. It has a 1.5" I.D. with a 3" flange. This is for the rudder assembly. Who carries this fitting?

scratch the thru-hull fitting search...just ordered from deep blue yacht supply.

also check out this stainless supply place...http://www.marinepartdepot.com/index.html

got some cheap stuff. i ordered a t-bolt toggle...I dont know about the quality, but it was 3.99 shipped...would have been 22.35 from west marine with shipping and they were out of stock...

I see that deep blue has some interesting "rudder port" parts... which part exactly did you use... they have several and it is not clear which set-up would best/most easily work... I am anxious to replace my autp radiator hose OEM set-up ( which I have to admit has been trouble free from the start) since I am worried it might go and if it does.. it could be cattastrophic.

tnc110 wrote:scratch the thru-hull fitting search...just ordered from deep blue yacht supply.

also check out this stainless supply place...http://www.marinepartdepot.com/index.html

got some cheap stuff. i ordered a t-bolt toggle...I dont know about the quality, but it was 3.99 shipped...would have been 22.35 from west marine with shipping and they were out of stock...

I'd be a little careful using cheap stuff. We bought some cheapo cam cleats for the jib sheets and they lasted about three sails. Went back to West and got Harkin's.

60THC150 is the part i ordered...it is what came out of my boat...it may not be original, but it seemed to work fine. there are no bearings in this set up...just uses the thru hull fittings as bushings. How are other boats set up?

I couldn't agree more, the only cheap thing I ever bought was 5200 for sale in Lowes (2 bucks a tube, I bought them all )

FranS wrote:

tnc110 wrote:scratch the thru-hull fitting search...just ordered from deep blue yacht supply.

also check out this stainless supply place...http://www.marinepartdepot.com/index.html

got some cheap stuff. i ordered a t-bolt toggle...I dont know about the quality, but it was 3.99 shipped...would have been 22.35 from west marine with shipping and they were out of stock...

I'd be a little careful using cheap stuff. We bought some cheapo cam cleats for the jib sheets and they lasted about three sails. Went back to West and got Harkin's.

$2/tube..WOW!!! that is cheap!

ok...so i got the thru hull fitting and the id is 1/4 too small...anyone have any ideas how to ream it out to let the rudder shaft fit?

I offer this as a thought, wrap the rudder shaft with something like wax paper and heat the fitting slide it on to the shaft, PVC stretches fairly easily when heated up, beware of the fumes if you decide to give it a try they are very toxic.Not sure you could heat it up evenly enough to do this but if the part is cheap it might be worth a try.

it is a cheap part...and i thought of doing that as well only heating up a piece of 1.5" steel pipe (very hot) and using it to melt through the fitting...only problem is i'm afraid it will mess up the threads and i wont be able to get the fitting tight to the hull....

How about a Dermal tool with the sanding drum? It gets dusty but it does wonderful on small jobs.

Thanks
Alan

I had the same problem, I think I wrote someplace else that is the internal diameter that counts. I ended up using my old fittings with a PVC pipe and a ton of epoxy. It was a big project, but I'm really happy with the results, no more worries about a leaking rudder post.

I just finished doing this repair a short time ago. I opted to take the through hulls down to a local machine shop, along with the rudder shaft and had them open the the fittings just enough to slide on the shaft without a lot of slop. It is a very easy process for them and takes very little time. They did both the upper and lower for me and I believe the charge was $20. Of course it helps if you know someone that does machine work. I also had to take the two stainless collars I bought to replace the messed up and stuck alluminum one I had to cut off, to a machineist and have them opened up also. Part of the problem is that the rudder shaft is going to be oval to some degree. Next time I do this particular fix, I am going to use Stainless through hulls and I will not have to worry about a PVC fitting breaking if I happen to hit bottom a bit hard. Not that I would ever do that, LOL.

what is everyone putting between the through hulls ( whichever way you go) ? the automotive radiator/fuel hose as per OEM.... I would love for this to be a solid tube that would not degrade or leak or need stupid hose clamps and would also provide some structual support othe cockpit back there... but is there a reason for the hose design...does this have to flex / if it were solid would the boat flexing back and forth actually cause leaks in a solid tube? hmmm.... this is serious a si think this is a fatal failure if this leaks... with water gushing in past the hose.. 1) what would you use to stopthe leak and 2) you would quickly drown working in the very back of the "coffin" ( aptly named I guess)..... so burst hose or cracked thru hull back there...hello life jacket.....goodbye Chrysler 26

i ended up buying a 1.5" hole saw. then took a 1/2" drive socket that just fit into the new thru hull fitting...wrapped it with duct tape so that it fit snug into the hole saw and used it to pilot the hole saw. chucked it up into the drill press...it was slow drilling as the hole saw got clogged often, but it worked great. everything is sealed and intsalled