Gin Pole Bridle Question

sungun61 · Post by **sungun61** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 1:27 pm

Who can tell me if there is a "magic" length to the bridles I'll need when raising my C22 mast with a gin pole. I know to use slots 23 and 32 on the toe rails but I'm unsure of length. Anybody ?
Thanks

FranS · Post by **FranS** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 1:43 pm

Not sure the actual dimensions, but when attached to the toe rails at the proper slots the ring at the apex of the bridle should be no higher then the mast step.

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 2:05 pm

EE uses bridles made of light chain and snap clips - that way the length is adjustable. Fran is spot on tho as the center eye on the bridles should be at the same height as the mast step.

sungun61 · Post by **sungun61** » Sun Sep 13, 2009 2:46 pm

As always, thanks for the knowledge. Guess it's time to finish the system
and try it all out.

tgentry · Post by **tgentry** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 7:29 am

EE,
When you say same height as the mast step:
Is that with bridles vertical or with them angled towards the gin pole?
Is this point is equidistant from the two toe rail attachments?

I have to make some better bridles, the ones that came with Copacetic are not even symmetrical and are causing some issues. I've seen the dimensions for C22 bridles but never for C26.

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 7:54 am

I made them up this way;

Make up 2 lengths of chain,one for each side of the boat, put a clip in the center point of the chain.

Put a clip on each of the toe rail points as mentioned in the manual

Slid a long metal pipe under the hook on the step to act as a "level".

Slid the clip on the center of the chain over the pipe on each side of the boat. That makes the center eyelet same height as the mast step.

Then stretched each end of each chain fore and aft to to clips on the toe rail and attached them to those clips where they met.

You may have a point about whether they are measured as vertical or inwards a bit since the first time I used mine they were a bit tight when raising the mast. Of course all I had to do was adjust the bridle length by moving the toe rail clips out a link on the chain. The tightness may also have happened if the "level" rod bent down a bit on each end, but I don't think it did.

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 8:44 am

Here is a view of the bridles in use.
This is a large photo however.

Click here

I do not think there really is a magic length. As long as you are close!! LOL!

When I made mine, I stared at the manual and rough guessed the length relative to the photos.

If you want to see the full process, just click the "Stepping the mast" link in my signature.

Scott

tgentry · Post by **tgentry** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 9:35 am

The problem with mine was that the stabilizer lines that go from bridle to tip of gin pole (boom) would be tight when the mast was horizontal but quite loose as the mast nears vertical. This would allow the mainsheet to pull the gin pole off the mast as the mast approached vertical. That's not really a problem when raising the mast since the gin pole isn't really doing anything at that point, but it is problematic during the lowering operation.

Tightening the stabilizer lines while the mast is laying down created so much tension as the mast leaned back that it would either hold the mast up, or break something.

I believe the problem is that "center eye" on my bridles is not centered. Having it centered is probably more important than the exact length.

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 9:55 am

I'd agree that the eye being centered is important since you are making a sort of fulcrum (??) at the step.

That was one of my reasons for making my up the way I did - as long as that rod is stright across the boat, the eye will be centered, and the same on both sides.

FranS · Post by **FranS** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 10:45 am

We found that as per Capt Scott's descriptions, making off the lines which lead from the bridles to the cleats on the mast worked wonders for minor adjustments as the mast went up or down. Just as long as you are carefully when handling a line under strain. Slow and easy on the rasing and lowering so you have time to adjust the lines. Last time we lowered the mast did not come all the way down and seemed to be hanging up... we just needed to ease those lines a tad and she came down the last 2 feet.

tgentry · Post by **tgentry** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 11:34 am

Scott and others,
I would really like your opinion on the following.

I see in your demo (very nice, btw) that you simply pass the line through the shackles attached to the bridle eyes. I raised and lowered my mast just that way a couple times and it worked OK with some side to side movement, but nothing major.

I reread my manual and found it says: "Secure the two ends of the genoa sheet that are tied to the gooseneck at the boom top to the center eye or thimble of the wire bridles that are shackled to the toe rails. Now the boom is supported by these guy lines and cannot topple sideways." (emphasis is mine)

BTW, does the C22 manual say something different?

I've been thinking about this a lot and it seems to me with the pass through method if the boom should sway a bit to port it forces the boom to lean to starboard. At first I thought this would quickly lead to collapse of the system with boom leaning one way and mast the other, but I think the halyard's force opposing the mast sway due to the opposite lean of the boom saves the day.

When I make up my good bridles, I might just (slowly) try it as my manual seems to indicate and see what happens. It seems to me that as long as the bridles are exactly right this would be more secure.

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 12:34 pm

Thanks for the compliments.

Hmm,
Excellent questions.
It seems to me that if you secure the lines from the boom end to the bridle the the length and position of the bridle and bridle eyes become extremely important. Zero room for flex or error. I would guess that the eye of the bridle would need to be exactly the height of the mast base and also centered for and aft on it. Granted if all is well then it seems it would be a more secure method. This would imply that the line from the mast to the bridle would also need to be secured or tied off at the bridle.

I'll have to study that or even try that before Id want to commit.
I'll be hauling Lady Jo out in about a month. I'll try and remember to give it a go. Anyoneinterested in helping and watching the process is welcome to join me!!

Scott
PS: I will note that the method I use does allow for some minor movement of the mast left and right however my mast base is now hinged on both boats so it is much less of a concern for me!!