I am going to rig my Chrysler 26 with a spinnaker for next season. I have some simple ideas of how I am planning on rigging, but has anyone done this that can give me some advice?
I am an avid racer, but I am not planning on racing my Chrysler. Actually, I race one-designs and do not plan on racing perf. However, does anyone know what kind of rating a Chrysler 26 would have for perf racing? While I won't race her regularly, I would like to enter her in some of the local club races around City Island and the Long Island Sound.
Thanks
Spinnaker on Chrysler 26 - 2 questions
HELLO! City Island, LI Sound...!!! Welcome... I sail way on the East End ( Gardiners Bay ) but FranS is right near you and there is always a really nice C-26 perpetually for sale (sail?) on Sheephead Bay.... do we have a growing fleet here in the NE?, can't help you with the rigging but there is a PHRF rating for the Chrysler ( have to look that up) but they did have a spinniker as a option and most promotional brochures of the day do show a beautiful spinniker. Let us know if you do race and how you set 'er up for perf.
C-26, Fixed Keel # 343
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Am quoting from Rik Sneeuwjagt on his specs for Child's Play at
http://chryslersailing.lizards.net/sail ... html#Specs
PHRF Rating: 228 (California), 235 (Michigan), 237 (New England), 246 (New York)
Also a listing of 237 at
http://www.phrfne.org/page/handicapping/base_handicaps
That's the only places I recall seeing a PHRF
http://chryslersailing.lizards.net/sail ... html#Specs
PHRF Rating: 228 (California), 235 (Michigan), 237 (New England), 246 (New York)
Also a listing of 237 at
http://www.phrfne.org/page/handicapping/base_handicaps
That's the only places I recall seeing a PHRF
It can be a little tricky, but they are clearly marked and there is good room to pass by on either side. The bigger problem is the large shipping that comes through there.
More tricky is the area between Stepping Stones Lighthouse and Kings Point Academy. There is a line between the light and a bouy probably 1/2 mile south that should not be crossed. Keep the light well starboard if you are heading east or you need to drop way down and pass below the bouys just off the Acadamy. I have seen lots of power boaters go through, but I would never attempt it, full of rocks and other nasties.
More tricky is the area between Stepping Stones Lighthouse and Kings Point Academy. There is a line between the light and a bouy probably 1/2 mile south that should not be crossed. Keep the light well starboard if you are heading east or you need to drop way down and pass below the bouys just off the Acadamy. I have seen lots of power boaters go through, but I would never attempt it, full of rocks and other nasties.
symmetric or an a-sail?
I'm partial to asymmetrics, especially short-handed.
My basic rig for asymm is simple: a 2:1 tack downhaul, run to a cam cleat @ the cockpit, a couple of sheets, and recently, 2:1 twing lines run to cam cleats adjust the sheet fairlead angle under load without having to reposition a block. I use a spin sock to keep it contained -- simplifies hoist and douse -- and made a turtle that I strap to the pulpit so the whole affair's accessible but securely out of the way. Might be better to make an opening sausage to strap to the foredeck lifeline, but haven't played with that yet. You can do it all singlehanded, but a tiller pilot really helps keep the old girl on track if you do.
There's a small pic of Windward's foredeck, including a few sq ft of her asym and turtle, on the FXSails site (http://www.fxsails.com/spinnarticle3.php). Side note: I've purchased 5 sails from them or their predecessor since 2003 and have been happy, but note that one of our folks here had the experience from purgatory, if not hell, getting what he ordered this year. I am still planning to order a high cut 110 from them -- wanted to take it to Pamlico this Oct, in fact -- but the ba$ement decided it needs a perimeter drain and $ump installed, so that's on hold for the nonce. In any case, while my personal experience with FX has been good, it's clear that your mileage may vary, and if you're in the market for a sail please consider a variety of opinions, not just mine.
I posted something months (years?) ago on NCSail site in response to a question re: using a spinny, and for some reason saved a copy. Pasted below, in its verbose, unedited cumbersomeness.
====
Starting out, winds under 10 are a good bet. Too light, though, and it may be hard to get the thing to fly until you're accustomed to it.
Wear life jackets to start with, even if you're not normally that kinda guy. Think about it: your bow man is scampering about the deck with lines and slippery nylon, you're busy, the big sail makes the boat do strange and stimulating things, no one's paying much attention to the boom -- any of these ingredients can result in a MOB. If you think it's fun flying the chute doublehanded, try suddenly singlehanded with your partner in the water, possibly face down.
Sometimes winds are either higher than you think or come up while you're out. Make sure everything below is stowed, and if your companionway is low, leave the bottom washboard in just in case. A spinnaker can provide one heck of a round up when it's blowing , and it's conceivable that you'd rinse the winch before getting the sheet eased.
If you have a furler, be sure the headsail is furled before you mess with the asymm, and don't redeploy the jib until the asymm's down and the halyard stowed. On many boats the halyard interferes with the furler's upper swivel and you can end up with a "Noble Duke of York" situation, where it's neither up nor down and your furler's jammed.
Fly with the main, at least until you know your way around. Raise the chute in the main's shadow going downwind, thereby reducing the apparent wind and keeping it from filling before you're prepared. Once you're set, head up to expose the chute to some wind. Additional benefits are better balance and additional control. Once you get slick you can take the asymm wing-and-wing, although that can be a broach or jibe waiting to happen so don't do that if the breeze is up until you know what you're getting into.
Drop it the same way: head down until the main blankets the chute, then use the lull to recover it. You really want snap shackles at the head and tack so that you can get it down quickly. If you have a crew of two, the bow man (apologies to your wife... bow person?) blows the tack line. If the breeze is up, a hell of a lot of flapping occurs. The helmsman takes the sheet from under the boom and hauls the sail in as the bow man eases the halyard, depositing the chute down the companionway as it comes it (be sure the stopper knots are out of the sheet ends). When you get to the head, pop the halyard and clip it to the lifeline, being careful not to wrap it around the mainsheet or anything. Now the bow man cleans up.
I use a spinnaker sock, which keeps the thing contained until it's hoisted. Once it's up, you yank up the sock and you're flying (literally, on that day). You douse by pulling the control line while easing the sheet, and the sock slides down leaving you a more easily handled spinnaker sausage.
If you don't want to $pring for a sock, an old racer's trick is to prepack the chute using a 1/2 gallon pitcher and some light rubber bands. Cut the bottom out of the pitcher (probably want to use a plastic one... glass can leave sharp edges) and put a bunch of rubber bands around the outside. Feed the chute head first through the top of the pitcher with the leech and luff tapes together. Every few feet slip a rubber band down the pitcher and over the chute. Space them wide for light air, closer for heavy. This will keep it from filling until it's hoisted, at which point a healthy tug on the sheet should break some of the bands and the wind should do the rest.
"Fly it like a genoa" is partially correct, but "trim it like a genoa" is more to the point... you just play the leeward sheet, perhaps adjusting the fairlead block fore/aft to get the luff to break evenly. In light air you can often cheat an A-sail pretty close to the wind, but not when it's blowing hard.
An adjustable tack line is also a good bet. Mine has a 2:1 purchase and runs to a cleat in the cockpit, but if you don't adjust it in strong breezes you can live with 1:1. Needs to be as sturdy as your halyard. Close on the wind you tension the tack line to present a straighter leech; ease it off the wind to get a better curve. Every boat and sail are different, so even if you don't adjust much this gives you the ability to fine tune. If you find a sweet spot for the adjustment, use your permanent marker to mark the line so that you can repeat the setting. You may find that easing the halyard a foot or so improves your set downwind, but don't sweat that until you're comfy with the sail.
Apparent wind is a big factor with the chute, which is why it is often faster to reach and jibe with the chute than to sail deep. The helmsman needs to keep close tabs on things, because the spinny can overpower you quickly. Small corrections are key. A few times in strong winds with Windward I've been pretty much on the edge on a reach, have either failed to catch the puff with my tiller in time or ease the sheet and have rounded up in spectacular fashion. Again, that's when it's blowing kinda hard.
My basic rig for asymm is simple: a 2:1 tack downhaul, run to a cam cleat @ the cockpit, a couple of sheets, and recently, 2:1 twing lines run to cam cleats adjust the sheet fairlead angle under load without having to reposition a block. I use a spin sock to keep it contained -- simplifies hoist and douse -- and made a turtle that I strap to the pulpit so the whole affair's accessible but securely out of the way. Might be better to make an opening sausage to strap to the foredeck lifeline, but haven't played with that yet. You can do it all singlehanded, but a tiller pilot really helps keep the old girl on track if you do.
There's a small pic of Windward's foredeck, including a few sq ft of her asym and turtle, on the FXSails site (http://www.fxsails.com/spinnarticle3.php). Side note: I've purchased 5 sails from them or their predecessor since 2003 and have been happy, but note that one of our folks here had the experience from purgatory, if not hell, getting what he ordered this year. I am still planning to order a high cut 110 from them -- wanted to take it to Pamlico this Oct, in fact -- but the ba$ement decided it needs a perimeter drain and $ump installed, so that's on hold for the nonce. In any case, while my personal experience with FX has been good, it's clear that your mileage may vary, and if you're in the market for a sail please consider a variety of opinions, not just mine.
I posted something months (years?) ago on NCSail site in response to a question re: using a spinny, and for some reason saved a copy. Pasted below, in its verbose, unedited cumbersomeness.
====
Starting out, winds under 10 are a good bet. Too light, though, and it may be hard to get the thing to fly until you're accustomed to it.
Wear life jackets to start with, even if you're not normally that kinda guy. Think about it: your bow man is scampering about the deck with lines and slippery nylon, you're busy, the big sail makes the boat do strange and stimulating things, no one's paying much attention to the boom -- any of these ingredients can result in a MOB. If you think it's fun flying the chute doublehanded, try suddenly singlehanded with your partner in the water, possibly face down.
Sometimes winds are either higher than you think or come up while you're out. Make sure everything below is stowed, and if your companionway is low, leave the bottom washboard in just in case. A spinnaker can provide one heck of a round up when it's blowing , and it's conceivable that you'd rinse the winch before getting the sheet eased.
If you have a furler, be sure the headsail is furled before you mess with the asymm, and don't redeploy the jib until the asymm's down and the halyard stowed. On many boats the halyard interferes with the furler's upper swivel and you can end up with a "Noble Duke of York" situation, where it's neither up nor down and your furler's jammed.
Fly with the main, at least until you know your way around. Raise the chute in the main's shadow going downwind, thereby reducing the apparent wind and keeping it from filling before you're prepared. Once you're set, head up to expose the chute to some wind. Additional benefits are better balance and additional control. Once you get slick you can take the asymm wing-and-wing, although that can be a broach or jibe waiting to happen so don't do that if the breeze is up until you know what you're getting into.
Drop it the same way: head down until the main blankets the chute, then use the lull to recover it. You really want snap shackles at the head and tack so that you can get it down quickly. If you have a crew of two, the bow man (apologies to your wife... bow person?) blows the tack line. If the breeze is up, a hell of a lot of flapping occurs. The helmsman takes the sheet from under the boom and hauls the sail in as the bow man eases the halyard, depositing the chute down the companionway as it comes it (be sure the stopper knots are out of the sheet ends). When you get to the head, pop the halyard and clip it to the lifeline, being careful not to wrap it around the mainsheet or anything. Now the bow man cleans up.
I use a spinnaker sock, which keeps the thing contained until it's hoisted. Once it's up, you yank up the sock and you're flying (literally, on that day). You douse by pulling the control line while easing the sheet, and the sock slides down leaving you a more easily handled spinnaker sausage.
If you don't want to $pring for a sock, an old racer's trick is to prepack the chute using a 1/2 gallon pitcher and some light rubber bands. Cut the bottom out of the pitcher (probably want to use a plastic one... glass can leave sharp edges) and put a bunch of rubber bands around the outside. Feed the chute head first through the top of the pitcher with the leech and luff tapes together. Every few feet slip a rubber band down the pitcher and over the chute. Space them wide for light air, closer for heavy. This will keep it from filling until it's hoisted, at which point a healthy tug on the sheet should break some of the bands and the wind should do the rest.
"Fly it like a genoa" is partially correct, but "trim it like a genoa" is more to the point... you just play the leeward sheet, perhaps adjusting the fairlead block fore/aft to get the luff to break evenly. In light air you can often cheat an A-sail pretty close to the wind, but not when it's blowing hard.
An adjustable tack line is also a good bet. Mine has a 2:1 purchase and runs to a cleat in the cockpit, but if you don't adjust it in strong breezes you can live with 1:1. Needs to be as sturdy as your halyard. Close on the wind you tension the tack line to present a straighter leech; ease it off the wind to get a better curve. Every boat and sail are different, so even if you don't adjust much this gives you the ability to fine tune. If you find a sweet spot for the adjustment, use your permanent marker to mark the line so that you can repeat the setting. You may find that easing the halyard a foot or so improves your set downwind, but don't sweat that until you're comfy with the sail.
Apparent wind is a big factor with the chute, which is why it is often faster to reach and jibe with the chute than to sail deep. The helmsman needs to keep close tabs on things, because the spinny can overpower you quickly. Small corrections are key. A few times in strong winds with Windward I've been pretty much on the edge on a reach, have either failed to catch the puff with my tiller in time or ease the sheet and have rounded up in spectacular fashion. Again, that's when it's blowing kinda hard.
Jeff
s/v Windward
1978 C-26 #481
http://www.lizards.net
http://www.sv-windward.com
http://www.chryslersailing.com
s/v Windward
1978 C-26 #481
http://www.lizards.net
http://www.sv-windward.com
http://www.chryslersailing.com