c26 updates
c26 updates
Hey everybody, I have been putting off updating you guys on my projects so I'm going to detail a bunch of them all in this one post.
I did a bunch of practical but not pretty interior upgrades that are not really anything new so im not going into that.
The projects in the pictures below were done in a functional but very cheap way because I'm a contractor and business has been pretty slow and also because I have a lot of ideas of things I want to do and I dont want to spend years doing them all.
the first project was a bimini made from a random discounted frame that was missing parts. I knew I would need to customize it anyway so I bought it for the hardware and bends. The fabric is a polyester tarp material pulled tite around the frame and secured with self tappers and then the excess cutoff. total investment $40 I should note that the red dye is fading much faster than a marine fabric so I may be buying some sunbrella in the future
project two was a new motor mount so the xtra longshaft motor could clear the water. This honda has a 27" shaft. I bought the heaviest and highest lifting motor mount I could find from boaters world when it was going out of business 50% off. I modified the notched bracket which guides the motor and limits how much range it can travel through in order to increase the range. this was my biggest purchase at almost $300 with discount. It has such heavy springs that you have to lean on the motor to get it to go down.
project three was a super long outboard tiller extension making the outboard my lowspeed tiller for docking. I find my existing rudder to be usless at docking speeds. This steerable outboard tiller has made docking singlehanded much more controlled. $0
project four was a plywood panel to replace the lowest hatchboard which included drink holders and gear holders. no more spilled drinks in the cockpit. $15
project five was a security screen hatch because I like to leave the boat open on hot days and one day I returned to the boat to find I had been visited by a thief. The new security screen was about $40 in material and a day of welding. very sturdy and I have mounted a box fan on it.
My latest project was a hard dodger with removable plexiglass windows and 45watts of solar panel on the top off it. I bought the three 15watt solar panels at harbour frieght for $200 and that motivated me to do the rest of the project. the plexi was $65 and the metal for the frame was about $45. I welded the frame out of angle iron but everything else is installed with wingnuts so that it can be dissassamble by hand in a hurry.
Also I when I did the extension to the outboard tiller I used the old tiller and bought a new longer tiller for the main rudder that I can reach while sitting under the new dodger.
I did a bunch of practical but not pretty interior upgrades that are not really anything new so im not going into that.
The projects in the pictures below were done in a functional but very cheap way because I'm a contractor and business has been pretty slow and also because I have a lot of ideas of things I want to do and I dont want to spend years doing them all.
the first project was a bimini made from a random discounted frame that was missing parts. I knew I would need to customize it anyway so I bought it for the hardware and bends. The fabric is a polyester tarp material pulled tite around the frame and secured with self tappers and then the excess cutoff. total investment $40 I should note that the red dye is fading much faster than a marine fabric so I may be buying some sunbrella in the future
project two was a new motor mount so the xtra longshaft motor could clear the water. This honda has a 27" shaft. I bought the heaviest and highest lifting motor mount I could find from boaters world when it was going out of business 50% off. I modified the notched bracket which guides the motor and limits how much range it can travel through in order to increase the range. this was my biggest purchase at almost $300 with discount. It has such heavy springs that you have to lean on the motor to get it to go down.
project three was a super long outboard tiller extension making the outboard my lowspeed tiller for docking. I find my existing rudder to be usless at docking speeds. This steerable outboard tiller has made docking singlehanded much more controlled. $0
project four was a plywood panel to replace the lowest hatchboard which included drink holders and gear holders. no more spilled drinks in the cockpit. $15
project five was a security screen hatch because I like to leave the boat open on hot days and one day I returned to the boat to find I had been visited by a thief. The new security screen was about $40 in material and a day of welding. very sturdy and I have mounted a box fan on it.
My latest project was a hard dodger with removable plexiglass windows and 45watts of solar panel on the top off it. I bought the three 15watt solar panels at harbour frieght for $200 and that motivated me to do the rest of the project. the plexi was $65 and the metal for the frame was about $45. I welded the frame out of angle iron but everything else is installed with wingnuts so that it can be dissassamble by hand in a hurry.
Also I when I did the extension to the outboard tiller I used the old tiller and bought a new longer tiller for the main rudder that I can reach while sitting under the new dodger.
c26 updates
You've done some very interesting things. Would you have any additional photographs of your motor mount? My original motor mount has cracks. I have had some good input about how to fix the problem. But your's is a whole new approach.
Nice "can do" attitude. It's really too bad that you need a thief screen, but that's reality for you.
It looks like your motor in the up position blocks the view of your stern light. Maybe putting the light on a pole is something to consider.
It looks like your motor in the up position blocks the view of your stern light. Maybe putting the light on a pole is something to consider.
Tom
1981 Endeavour 43 s/v Pearl Lee
Former 1976 Columbia Payne 9.6 s/v Gin Rhumby
Former 1979 Chrysler 26, s/v Copacetic
http://www.asswhaffleyachtclub.net
http://www.svpearllee.com
1981 Endeavour 43 s/v Pearl Lee
Former 1976 Columbia Payne 9.6 s/v Gin Rhumby
Former 1979 Chrysler 26, s/v Copacetic
http://www.asswhaffleyachtclub.net
http://www.svpearllee.com
stern light
The stern light isn't an issue because I only put the motor up at dock. I like to keep the motor in the water ,even when sailing, in case I need it in a hurry. The theif thing is funny because I'm in one of the nicest marinas.
wow, you've really added some interesting stuff. Couple of things. My traveller is much less involved. I just have a double block on the boom ( 2/3 ) aft and then two lines to blocks on the cabin. No need for a track. I really like the dodger idea. Somewhat concerned about " sharp " corners as I am forever going forward for stuck lines and don't want to bump into anything square. I like the tiller extension on the motor. I have one made by Mercury and although the controls work fine, I cannot turn the motor from the throttle because of the perpendicular angle and usually have to bend over and push the motor over to either side. Do you have this problem ?
sharp edges
Im very concious of the sharp edges, the major edge of the aluminum top plate has large radius rounded corner and will be getting rubber hose glued around the edges also. there are a few minor pieces of angle iron that will be getting the corners knocked off with a grinder. The only thingI dont like about my traveller is all the vertical lines which get in my line of sight. My honda motor was setup very stiff and you could barely budge it but I found a bolt that adjust how stiff it is to turn and now its just stiff enough not to turn by itself.
The line on the motors lower end is a permanent flusher I rigged up. it has a one way valve in it so i dont have to disconnect it.
I should mention also that the dodger is very sturdy. It supports my wieght very confidently. I believe with the solar panels and plexi glass installed it probably weighs about 50lbs.
The line on the motors lower end is a permanent flusher I rigged up. it has a one way valve in it so i dont have to disconnect it.
I should mention also that the dodger is very sturdy. It supports my wieght very confidently. I believe with the solar panels and plexi glass installed it probably weighs about 50lbs.
Unreal, I thought this would be "just" another bimini thread.... BUT unreal this has to be one of the most outfitted C-26 around ( it looks like my sistership BTW-- red/white) what he doesn't tell you is check out the traveller, the blocks at the base of his mast, the hnadrails, the sail track... that is just what I could peak at.... I would love to see the interior mods and learn a lot more about these mods... all , make great sense, are well thought out and look great at a great price.... I am engergized and inspired...KUDOS...MORE ..BRAVO
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flushing device
Monty
that line is a flushing device which I have rigged to leave on all the time.
69 shark
3/4 inch plywood and after you drop it in and fine tune the fit you can add to little feet out of scrap wood so that when you accidentally step on it instead of flexing the unit it will just transfer the weight to the boat.
that line is a flushing device which I have rigged to leave on all the time.
69 shark
3/4 inch plywood and after you drop it in and fine tune the fit you can add to little feet out of scrap wood so that when you accidentally step on it instead of flexing the unit it will just transfer the weight to the boat.
smart idea.... it looked to me from the pic like it was "gimbaled" so that it would level out withthe heel of the boat, but I guess that would only work somehow if yout had a drink smack dab inthe center.....
I am very impressed at the welding on the security gate...great miters .is that alum or steel or stainless... if not will it rust?
I am very impressed at the welding on the security gate...great miters .is that alum or steel or stainless... if not will it rust?
hatch board
nyc sailor
"Gimballed" now Im confused. I understand the term but I think I'll leave that to someone else to invent.
the security screen is just mild steel with silver rustoleum. Its gonna rust a little, but thats fine. The welding was just common stick welding, although I do have a tig machine for when I need it to look really sharp.
The frame for the dodger is also mild angle iron and stick welding.
I've been daydreaming of building a big steel ketch.
"Gimballed" now Im confused. I understand the term but I think I'll leave that to someone else to invent.
the security screen is just mild steel with silver rustoleum. Its gonna rust a little, but thats fine. The welding was just common stick welding, although I do have a tig machine for when I need it to look really sharp.
The frame for the dodger is also mild angle iron and stick welding.
I've been daydreaming of building a big steel ketch.
Now these are seriously very nice modifications.
I see a new drink caddy in my future to replace my bottom hatch board. The solar panel is another fine improvement I will have to think on this one as my C-22 has much less room from the top of the hatch to the bottom of the sail and my C-22 is a pop-top cabin. I need another location to pull that off. The Pop-top rises right up to the mast when it's open.
Thanks
Alan
I see a new drink caddy in my future to replace my bottom hatch board. The solar panel is another fine improvement I will have to think on this one as my C-22 has much less room from the top of the hatch to the bottom of the sail and my C-22 is a pop-top cabin. I need another location to pull that off. The Pop-top rises right up to the mast when it's open.
Thanks
Alan
It's a good life on the
Honu, 1976 C-22
My Chrysler Sailing Photos: http://s1297.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... ry/Sailing
Honu, 1976 C-22
My Chrysler Sailing Photos: http://s1297.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... ry/Sailing
Frank,
I think we have sisterships! I have a 78 c-26 fixed keel with white/red cove stripe.!
I am responding here from another thread to get more detail on some of the many great upgrades you have ingeniously engineered.
1) tell me more about the OB tiller extension. It looks like a box length of alum.? any more details on size and length and how it is secured and how it fits past the stern rail?
2) also I see that you have moved the aft cleats..this is another one of my problems in another thread... your location makes more sense as the pull tenstion is more direct.. but still how did you get the backing plate up inside that tight "gunwale"
3) would love a pic of you OB remote controls or any cabin mods you have done , esp. battery location, electrical swich panel or nav station.
My boat is all OEM and is a mess.
I assume you painted your boat as it lokks bright white... mine is a dull kinda almond that I shine and shine ( 3M resotres/polish/wax with power buffer) and get no where.
I think we have sisterships! I have a 78 c-26 fixed keel with white/red cove stripe.!
I am responding here from another thread to get more detail on some of the many great upgrades you have ingeniously engineered.
1) tell me more about the OB tiller extension. It looks like a box length of alum.? any more details on size and length and how it is secured and how it fits past the stern rail?
2) also I see that you have moved the aft cleats..this is another one of my problems in another thread... your location makes more sense as the pull tenstion is more direct.. but still how did you get the backing plate up inside that tight "gunwale"
3) would love a pic of you OB remote controls or any cabin mods you have done , esp. battery location, electrical swich panel or nav station.
My boat is all OEM and is a mess.
I assume you painted your boat as it lokks bright white... mine is a dull kinda almond that I shine and shine ( 3M resotres/polish/wax with power buffer) and get no where.
C-26, Fixed Keel # 343
nyc sailor reply
Yep, I think we have the same boat.
The outboard tiller extension is a length of square aluminum tubing with my old wooden tiller whittled down and bolted in the end of it. Since I have remote controls for the honda (generic, not honda) I removed the factory tiller and controls. I bolted the aluminum tube to the old tiller mounting point with some shims inside the tubing to make a tight fit when bolted. when the motor is all the way down the tiller handle is at a 45 degree angle and when turned just misses the rear split stay. I do not have the stern rail. I had to loosen a bolt on the outboard to allow it to rotate freely.
The aft cleat was relocated as well as some othe cleats being added. I was able to get a backing plate behind it with the help of a friend but you can also use heavy duty marine grade toggle bolt kits which use a solid bar tapped for the bolt thread. I'm not sure how to describe it, I'll check my package and report back later.
I'm about to do battery relocation. I'll get some dc and ac switch panel photos. My boat is not bright, its just a lucky angle of the sun in that shot.
The outboard tiller extension is a length of square aluminum tubing with my old wooden tiller whittled down and bolted in the end of it. Since I have remote controls for the honda (generic, not honda) I removed the factory tiller and controls. I bolted the aluminum tube to the old tiller mounting point with some shims inside the tubing to make a tight fit when bolted. when the motor is all the way down the tiller handle is at a 45 degree angle and when turned just misses the rear split stay. I do not have the stern rail. I had to loosen a bolt on the outboard to allow it to rotate freely.
The aft cleat was relocated as well as some othe cleats being added. I was able to get a backing plate behind it with the help of a friend but you can also use heavy duty marine grade toggle bolt kits which use a solid bar tapped for the bolt thread. I'm not sure how to describe it, I'll check my package and report back later.
I'm about to do battery relocation. I'll get some dc and ac switch panel photos. My boat is not bright, its just a lucky angle of the sun in that shot.
I would bet my boat is almond. certainly in the interior cabin - no doubt
But, I can't find anywhere in any Chrysler brochure that they talk about almond colored boats as an option.
Also, I can't possibly imagine any manufacturer producing such a color for a mass produced boat almond and red? Ok maybe it is an off white but I doubt it... can't make it out... I hope with the right cleaning/sanding/buffing products it will be white(r).
I am switching to the remote controls on my OB in the cockpit but I still have my OB's tiller ( with throttle and all controls) so I will look into your set-up.. I have the stern rail so I will have to make a bend or something.
I think I know what you are talking about re: teh cleats and toggle bolts. , maybe I can find someone with small hands though..
I would love to see your cockpit controls and electric panel.
what is your cabin sole like? I am thinking of some kind of teak/holly or plasteak to replace the carpet and also make a better bilge hatch access cover. ( on the fixed keel boats, we don't have a keel trunk so our cabin sole is completely open)
But, I can't find anywhere in any Chrysler brochure that they talk about almond colored boats as an option.
Also, I can't possibly imagine any manufacturer producing such a color for a mass produced boat almond and red? Ok maybe it is an off white but I doubt it... can't make it out... I hope with the right cleaning/sanding/buffing products it will be white(r).
I am switching to the remote controls on my OB in the cockpit but I still have my OB's tiller ( with throttle and all controls) so I will look into your set-up.. I have the stern rail so I will have to make a bend or something.
I think I know what you are talking about re: teh cleats and toggle bolts. , maybe I can find someone with small hands though..
I would love to see your cockpit controls and electric panel.
what is your cabin sole like? I am thinking of some kind of teak/holly or plasteak to replace the carpet and also make a better bilge hatch access cover. ( on the fixed keel boats, we don't have a keel trunk so our cabin sole is completely open)
C-26, Fixed Keel # 343
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It's almost a pinkish almond color on the interior. I got a good color match when doing EE, there's a photo of the match and the formula here