I did a search and only found a thread on the 22 so I am starting one on the 26.
I am planning a purchase of the 9.9 longshaft Suzuki 4 stroke with electric start, I am in a windy Bay but I still don't think that I need a 15 hp. Also, I heard that the 9.9 outboards can be upgraded to a 15 with a new manifold and carb. I heard Yamaha was good too and the Nissan/Tohatsu 's not so good. Any thoughts.
Outboards and the 26
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Guillaume C.
- Posts: 121
- Joined: Wed Dec 13, 2006 6:40 pm
I have started a topic on C26 outboard a few month ago, you may search for it.
I ended up buying a Yamaha T9.9 (high thrust) 20 inch with remote. I will try it in a few week, but from what ive heard the high thrust motor make a difference (yamaha T and mercury Pro kicker). I have heard good thing about tohatsu too and is what I planned to use until I got a good price on new-old stock yam. tohatsu actually make and use the same engine as mercury
SN691: how deep is your cavitation plate under water?? I have to make a mount for my motor and am not sure at wich level I should place the motor so the prop does not get out of water in waves, your feedback would be appreciated!
I ended up buying a Yamaha T9.9 (high thrust) 20 inch with remote. I will try it in a few week, but from what ive heard the high thrust motor make a difference (yamaha T and mercury Pro kicker). I have heard good thing about tohatsu too and is what I planned to use until I got a good price on new-old stock yam. tohatsu actually make and use the same engine as mercury
SN691: how deep is your cavitation plate under water?? I have to make a mount for my motor and am not sure at wich level I should place the motor so the prop does not get out of water in waves, your feedback would be appreciated!
SN691: how deep is your cavitation plate under water?? I have to make a mount for my motor and am not sure at wich level I should place the motor so the prop does not get out of water in waves, your feedback would be appreciated![/quote]
We will be going out to the boat tomorrow and taking her out for a sail. I will check and see how deep the cavitition plate is under water and get back to you. A frind of mine has the prokicker on his 26 foot chrysler in San Fransico bay with the 20 inch shaft and as far as I know he has no trouble with the prop coming out of the water.
We will be going out to the boat tomorrow and taking her out for a sail. I will check and see how deep the cavitition plate is under water and get back to you. A frind of mine has the prokicker on his 26 foot chrysler in San Fransico bay with the 20 inch shaft and as far as I know he has no trouble with the prop coming out of the water.
Bob
1979 C-26
Easy Street
~~~_/)~~~
1979 C-26
Easy Street
~~~_/)~~~
Guillaume C.
here is a couple of potos of the stern of my boat with the new motor on it. You can see how far down the prop hangs below the water line
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14188702@N04/
here is a couple of potos of the stern of my boat with the new motor on it. You can see how far down the prop hangs below the water line
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14188702@N04/
Bob
1979 C-26
Easy Street
~~~_/)~~~
1979 C-26
Easy Street
~~~_/)~~~
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hotdot
I replaced the original Chrysler o/b with a Nissan 9.8 x-long shaft with a prop specified for a heavy boat ( special order prop, 65$). The skeg of the o/b is about 3 inches above the water when the boat is at rest and ocassionally drags lightly in the waves when sailing. I think the motor is great. Its simple, light weight compared to the original and after 5 years has never let me down or failed to start quickly. The hull speed of the boat is only about 6 kts so any bigger motor only stresses the o/b bracket to much. Also, I calculated the weight savings from the old motor to the new and was able to add a 12 gallon flexible water tank under the aft berth and still maintain the proper boat trim. Hull speed is achieved at about 1/2 throttle in calm water and I compute fuel consumption at an average of 1 gallon per hour. I never burn that much but I like to be on the safe side incase I have to detour for beer.
So I have been reading this post about outboards and I am right in the middle of trying to find myself an outboard too.
hotdot: I read that the 9.8 hp can push the c-26 at hull speed but can it do that in a heavy wind if needed? I am sure it could if it is half throttle in calm waters. Sometimes I need to do some fancy moving in tight spaces and am trying to determine whether I should go with the 15 for added security?
What type of special prop did you buy?
Adam
hotdot: I read that the 9.8 hp can push the c-26 at hull speed but can it do that in a heavy wind if needed? I am sure it could if it is half throttle in calm waters. Sometimes I need to do some fancy moving in tight spaces and am trying to determine whether I should go with the 15 for added security?
What type of special prop did you buy?
Adam
OK, GC is right...he did start a very good thread about the C26 outboards and it has great info...maybe the moderator can merge these two...sorry for starting a new one.
Also, I did buy the suzuki DF9.9, the longshaft with electric start. I have yet to mount it on the boat and use it as the boat is still in the old yard and still has to be trucked and then launched, but I am getting ready. I think the 15HP is heavy and I felt not needed and to sail around with all that weight all season for the off-time I might need slightly more HP that might not even make a diff. was the right decision for me esp. since the 15 hp's are alot more cash too. I'd rather put the money into a better prop...( hot..please tell us what you are using) the four stroke and the elec. start with bat charger. I now have to rig up remote controls and would liek to add a tach and maybe temp guage.
Also, I did buy the suzuki DF9.9, the longshaft with electric start. I have yet to mount it on the boat and use it as the boat is still in the old yard and still has to be trucked and then launched, but I am getting ready. I think the 15HP is heavy and I felt not needed and to sail around with all that weight all season for the off-time I might need slightly more HP that might not even make a diff. was the right decision for me esp. since the 15 hp's are alot more cash too. I'd rather put the money into a better prop...( hot..please tell us what you are using) the four stroke and the elec. start with bat charger. I now have to rig up remote controls and would liek to add a tach and maybe temp guage.
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hotdot
I have a Nissan 9.8b 2-stroke with a heavy boat prop. The prop is a nissan designated 6.5x8.5 prop. Much of the problem with outboards on a sailboat comes from keeping the prop deep in the water even with the boat piching in rough seas, the only way to do this is to have an x-long shaft motor. I my opinion the x-long shaft is more important than raw horsepower when pushing a displacement boat in rough seas. I've seen many 25+- ft sailboats with short shaft outboards on the great lakes when I was younger that suffered from the short steep waves that would quickly build. Now I sail on the gulf coast of florida and the motor has performed wonderfully to this point, waves or no waves.Check out http://www.flickr.com/photos/26160436@N07/2455968888/ for pictures of the motor and boat. I posted pictures of the boat on the trailer and at anchor.
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EmergencyExit
- Site Admin
- Posts: 2956
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2003 5:02 pm
- Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast
The Sailor 250 is ill and I need to replace it
I love(d) my Sailor 250, Chrysler's 10 hp, High Thrust, electric start sailboat motor. Sadly, it has fuel, spark and steadfastly fails to start. 
Pretty sure it's ignition related. While diagnosis may continue, ignition parts are non-refundable, expensive or unavailable: the CD unit is nearly $300, the coils and stator are unavailable (although a stator might be rebuildable).
In two weeks I want Windward on a trailer, heading for the Outer Banks for a couple of weeks of sailing. I need/want a reliable motor for the trip, and need to do something in the next couple of days.
I require a 25" shaft, electric start and remote control, needs to be able to tilt up using stock (seriously rebuilt, actually) motor mount.
Choices seem to be either
=> used Johnson Sailmaster 9.9 2 stroke for about $1000 (plus remote $). I'm not sure this is geared differently than a std 9.9 from the period, although it has a lower pitch prop and a 25" shaft. Parts are still available, too.
=> new Tohatsu 9.8 4 stroke for about $2400 (including remote)
=> new Mercury Bigfoot for about $2500 (without remote)
=> new Yamaha 9.9 High Thrust with tilt at $3200 with remote, installed, locally
In the winter I often have to come into the dock hot to make it between 30 knot crosswind gusts; when I back down hard with the Chrysler, the boat stops almost like it hit something. Powerful thrust in reverse is one of the things Chrysler touted in that motor, and several sailors I know use a plain old long shaft 9.9. Johnson/Evinrude on their similarly sized boats and say they don't have a lot of stopping power in full reverse. In forward, I've been able to tow a Hunter 28 at 5+ kt in about 10-15kt headwind, so lots of grunt available there.
If time weren't a factor, I'd consider a Yanmar-based SailDrive, which starts around $4200 for the one lung, raw-water cooled 9 HP -- good economy, weight low and centered, a real alternator -- but no time for that in the next two weeks.
I'm leaning toward the SailMaster 9.9 if still available, since if I get the Chrysler to live again I can probably sell it later for close to what I pay for it, but the lure of a new, reliable, economical 4 stroke is strong.
So, questions:
Anyone - If you've had experience with some of the high thrust engines vs the std editions, please let me know your impressions.
Guillaume - you bought the Yahama High Thrust. How do you like it? I know there's a shaft length difference between it and your old 9.x, but in calm water do you see a significant difference with the Hight Thrust?
HotDot - you're using the Nissan 2 stroke XL shaft. Still happy there? How's the stopping power in reverse? The Tohatsu 9.8 4 stroke is quite tempting, but I don't want to save $800 only to wish I'd spent more and gotten something with high thrust.
SN691 - Looks like your Merc will tilt up OK. I'd live with some skeg dragging if necessary to ensure the prop is well and truly immersed for places like the Beaufort and Ocracoke inlets. Still happy with the Merc Bigfoot/ProKicker? I know that's geared low... how does reverse thrust compare with std engine of similar size?
NYCSailor - Tell me about the Suzuki 9.9. That's a 4 stroke with standard gearing, right? How's it power against wind/current/seas, and what's reverse like for power?
Pretty sure it's ignition related. While diagnosis may continue, ignition parts are non-refundable, expensive or unavailable: the CD unit is nearly $300, the coils and stator are unavailable (although a stator might be rebuildable).In two weeks I want Windward on a trailer, heading for the Outer Banks for a couple of weeks of sailing. I need/want a reliable motor for the trip, and need to do something in the next couple of days.
I require a 25" shaft, electric start and remote control, needs to be able to tilt up using stock (seriously rebuilt, actually) motor mount.
Choices seem to be either
=> used Johnson Sailmaster 9.9 2 stroke for about $1000 (plus remote $). I'm not sure this is geared differently than a std 9.9 from the period, although it has a lower pitch prop and a 25" shaft. Parts are still available, too.
=> new Tohatsu 9.8 4 stroke for about $2400 (including remote)
=> new Mercury Bigfoot for about $2500 (without remote)
=> new Yamaha 9.9 High Thrust with tilt at $3200 with remote, installed, locally
In the winter I often have to come into the dock hot to make it between 30 knot crosswind gusts; when I back down hard with the Chrysler, the boat stops almost like it hit something. Powerful thrust in reverse is one of the things Chrysler touted in that motor, and several sailors I know use a plain old long shaft 9.9. Johnson/Evinrude on their similarly sized boats and say they don't have a lot of stopping power in full reverse. In forward, I've been able to tow a Hunter 28 at 5+ kt in about 10-15kt headwind, so lots of grunt available there.
If time weren't a factor, I'd consider a Yanmar-based SailDrive, which starts around $4200 for the one lung, raw-water cooled 9 HP -- good economy, weight low and centered, a real alternator -- but no time for that in the next two weeks.
I'm leaning toward the SailMaster 9.9 if still available, since if I get the Chrysler to live again I can probably sell it later for close to what I pay for it, but the lure of a new, reliable, economical 4 stroke is strong.
So, questions:
Anyone - If you've had experience with some of the high thrust engines vs the std editions, please let me know your impressions.
Guillaume - you bought the Yahama High Thrust. How do you like it? I know there's a shaft length difference between it and your old 9.x, but in calm water do you see a significant difference with the Hight Thrust?
HotDot - you're using the Nissan 2 stroke XL shaft. Still happy there? How's the stopping power in reverse? The Tohatsu 9.8 4 stroke is quite tempting, but I don't want to save $800 only to wish I'd spent more and gotten something with high thrust.
SN691 - Looks like your Merc will tilt up OK. I'd live with some skeg dragging if necessary to ensure the prop is well and truly immersed for places like the Beaufort and Ocracoke inlets. Still happy with the Merc Bigfoot/ProKicker? I know that's geared low... how does reverse thrust compare with std engine of similar size?
NYCSailor - Tell me about the Suzuki 9.9. That's a 4 stroke with standard gearing, right? How's it power against wind/current/seas, and what's reverse like for power?
Jeff
s/v Windward
1978 C-26 #481
http://www.lizards.net
http://www.sv-windward.com
http://www.chryslersailing.com
s/v Windward
1978 C-26 #481
http://www.lizards.net
http://www.sv-windward.com
http://www.chryslersailing.com
Windward.... you have one of the finest boats in the fleet and you are very helpful.
1) Inboard.... I am ont eh same track as you...I had a inboard yanmar on my J30 and loved it..everyone thinks it is a crazy idea but I already have a used saildrive unit and I am looking araound for a proper yanmar or volvo used (cheap) diesel..
2) Outboard.... I have the OEM chrysler 15 HP that I just deemed too old to be relaible ( as sailors, we need the motor for emergencies and when we are dead in teh water and for docking in crowed slips...so we carry around all that weight not really for propulsion but for an emergency -- so it damn well better work in an emergency). I had been using a evenrude 9.9 longshaft that was very reliable but was a pull start and when my wife said that her mother will be joining us on day sails this summer the image of me pulling the damn outboard and choking it and trying to get it to start with my mother in law sitting there in the sun ..was not something I wanted to deal with. So.......
I am now using a Suzuki four stroke long shaft with electric start.
My set-up is on a Garlick EZ lift outboard bracket... my transom has been "filled in"
the good....
It is very quiet...almost like it is not there
It starts up like light switch
VERY ez on gas
No mixing of oil - no smoke - emmissions are REALLY low.. no smell at all
Good thrust
almost 7amps output from the "alternator"
I could sell it easily if I went to an inboard
I has a tiller and can swivel...something I like should my POS OEM rudder blade break off when it hits a minnow or a leaf I could use the OB as an emergency way to steer.
the bad....
IT IS VERY HEAVY -- weighs almost as much as a 75hp two stroke OB would! all that weight onthe transom ...does not seem to effect sail trim ..but I don't race her..also I am going to need to beef-up my external OB bracket that was designed for much lighter 2 strokes
expensive
I just bought a expensive remote set-up for it ..as the OEM chrysler remote set-up just didn't work with the Suzuki
Long shaft is only 21 inches...I have not had any problems, prop stay inteh water but I would like it a few more inches deeper, remembe I have a external OB braket... so this fall I might redo the bracket and lower it a bit
Big power head... Oh well, maybe I will mount a table or solar panel on there or a back porch....only kidding BUT,,, if you have the nice OEM set-up with the OB well...make sure the head will fit in there and the head has room to tilt up.
I haven't noticed any major reverse issues, but then again I have not used her in revesr to stop the boat... I will try that one weekend and report.
Bottom line... I like it! Other than the weight It would be hard to go back to a two stroke.. I am putting in a new modern remote control in the cocpit with a key start, oil alarm and tachometer..
1) Inboard.... I am ont eh same track as you...I had a inboard yanmar on my J30 and loved it..everyone thinks it is a crazy idea but I already have a used saildrive unit and I am looking araound for a proper yanmar or volvo used (cheap) diesel..
2) Outboard.... I have the OEM chrysler 15 HP that I just deemed too old to be relaible ( as sailors, we need the motor for emergencies and when we are dead in teh water and for docking in crowed slips...so we carry around all that weight not really for propulsion but for an emergency -- so it damn well better work in an emergency). I had been using a evenrude 9.9 longshaft that was very reliable but was a pull start and when my wife said that her mother will be joining us on day sails this summer the image of me pulling the damn outboard and choking it and trying to get it to start with my mother in law sitting there in the sun ..was not something I wanted to deal with. So.......
I am now using a Suzuki four stroke long shaft with electric start.
My set-up is on a Garlick EZ lift outboard bracket... my transom has been "filled in"
the good....
It is very quiet...almost like it is not there
It starts up like light switch
VERY ez on gas
No mixing of oil - no smoke - emmissions are REALLY low.. no smell at all
Good thrust
almost 7amps output from the "alternator"
I could sell it easily if I went to an inboard
I has a tiller and can swivel...something I like should my POS OEM rudder blade break off when it hits a minnow or a leaf I could use the OB as an emergency way to steer.
the bad....
IT IS VERY HEAVY -- weighs almost as much as a 75hp two stroke OB would! all that weight onthe transom ...does not seem to effect sail trim ..but I don't race her..also I am going to need to beef-up my external OB bracket that was designed for much lighter 2 strokes
expensive
I just bought a expensive remote set-up for it ..as the OEM chrysler remote set-up just didn't work with the Suzuki
Long shaft is only 21 inches...I have not had any problems, prop stay inteh water but I would like it a few more inches deeper, remembe I have a external OB braket... so this fall I might redo the bracket and lower it a bit
Big power head... Oh well, maybe I will mount a table or solar panel on there or a back porch....only kidding BUT,,, if you have the nice OEM set-up with the OB well...make sure the head will fit in there and the head has room to tilt up.
I haven't noticed any major reverse issues, but then again I have not used her in revesr to stop the boat... I will try that one weekend and report.
Bottom line... I like it! Other than the weight It would be hard to go back to a two stroke.. I am putting in a new modern remote control in the cocpit with a key start, oil alarm and tachometer..
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Guillaume C.
- Posts: 121
- Joined: Wed Dec 13, 2006 6:40 pm
I am very happy with the Yamaha High Thrust. It's hard to compare with standart thrust because last years everything was new for me and had no way to know my speed.... I would say there's a difference, but cannot rate it,sry. I bet the Yam has good stopping power (it has a weird prop made for that) but have not really tested it as I'm on a mooring...
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hotdot
I'm on my 5/6th year with the motor (christmas present to myself 2002) and I'm still very happy with it. On the plus side it has plenty of push with the heavy duty prop in forward and reverse, and its relativly light weight. With the x-long shaft the prop has never cavatated or come out of the water in waves. Actually the weight difference between the old Chrysler o/b and the Nissan allowed me to install a 15 gallon water tank under the aft berth and still keep proper boat trim. The only downside to the Nissan is the fuel economy, it does'nt do nearly as well as the new crop of 4 strokes...But hey, its a sailboat!
I have a johnson 9.9 sailmaster with remote on my c26. It will push the boat at 4-5 knots around half throttle. It will push it at hull speed at 3/4 - full throttle but I hate to run it that fast. In the wind 20+ I have had a hard time turning into the wind. Once I am square into the wind I can scoot right into the wind at 4-5 knots but making the turn is not fun.
Thrust in reverse is not bad and I can stop rather quickly at the dock when coming in hot. I sail solo all the time so I tend to come in hot all the time.
I have to admit I have zero experience with other motors or other boats. All my experience has been on this one.
I did a complete motor rebuild over the winter, just to see what kind of shape the motor was in, suprised it was still in good shape. It starts without any problem unless I am pulling water instead of fuel(long story). It is also very simple to work on while out in the water. (another long story).
Thrust in reverse is not bad and I can stop rather quickly at the dock when coming in hot. I sail solo all the time so I tend to come in hot all the time.
I have to admit I have zero experience with other motors or other boats. All my experience has been on this one.
I did a complete motor rebuild over the winter, just to see what kind of shape the motor was in, suprised it was still in good shape. It starts without any problem unless I am pulling water instead of fuel(long story). It is also very simple to work on while out in the water. (another long story).
Decision 2008: a motor is selected
Thanks to all who provided input and shared experiences. Taking into account various inputs, research, the indeterminate nature of the Chrysler Sailor 250's ills, the short time frame, and the budget (well, I pretty much had to ignore that, since this purchase wasn't part of it), I ordered...
a 2009 Tohatsu 9.8A3, 4 stoke, 25" shaft, electric start, plus the parts to convert to remote throttle/shift/start. Also ordered a 4 blade, 5" pitch High Thrust prop, which the dealer characterizes as being for a "Freakin Heavy Load."
Elvin at internetoutboards spent a good bit of time with me discussing options. He was familiar with my old Sailor 250, having sold them in the distant past, and said that while the closest replacement would be the Yamaha T9.8 High Thrust, the Tohatsu with the power prop should give me as good or better thrust forward than the Chrysler, about 70% of the thrust in reverse, and burn 1/2 - 3/4 of the fuel. They had the motor in stock, and I just got the notice that it shipped.
This weekend will be installation and break-in. I'll let you all know how it works out. Late next week Windward and I leave for a couple of weeks on the Outer Banks, so should have adequate opportunity to put it to the test.
a 2009 Tohatsu 9.8A3, 4 stoke, 25" shaft, electric start, plus the parts to convert to remote throttle/shift/start. Also ordered a 4 blade, 5" pitch High Thrust prop, which the dealer characterizes as being for a "Freakin Heavy Load."
Elvin at internetoutboards spent a good bit of time with me discussing options. He was familiar with my old Sailor 250, having sold them in the distant past, and said that while the closest replacement would be the Yamaha T9.8 High Thrust, the Tohatsu with the power prop should give me as good or better thrust forward than the Chrysler, about 70% of the thrust in reverse, and burn 1/2 - 3/4 of the fuel. They had the motor in stock, and I just got the notice that it shipped.
This weekend will be installation and break-in. I'll let you all know how it works out. Late next week Windward and I leave for a couple of weeks on the Outer Banks, so should have adequate opportunity to put it to the test.
Jeff
s/v Windward
1978 C-26 #481
http://www.lizards.net
http://www.sv-windward.com
http://www.chryslersailing.com
s/v Windward
1978 C-26 #481
http://www.lizards.net
http://www.sv-windward.com
http://www.chryslersailing.com
-
Chrysler20%26
- Posts: 836
- Joined: Mon May 01, 2006 10:28 pm
- Location: Pinconning Michigan
- Contact:
Botom Line
I think the braken time is 40 Hr., I got two years on my 4 horse 4 strok, an it isn't broke in yet. Would you mind, telling us what you paid for the outboard, an good luck with it. My 4 horst had the carb replased the first year
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EmergencyExit
- Site Admin
- Posts: 2956
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2003 5:02 pm
- Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast
Sounds like a great addition to Windward. Will be very interested to hear the "review" after the trip, as I've already decided that next year when we move EE back to the coast the dear old Sailor 280 will need to be replaced with something. It still runs great, but like you I'd be more comfy with an upgrade before any Gulf trips.
How's the weight ?
How's the weight ?
Congrats..if you are like me...despite the weight ...once you go to a four stroke you will never go with a two stroke again...
now strats teh age old question..I heard that the only diff. between our 9.9 HP's and the 15hp's is the carb and maybe the intake manifold.... what is the latest on this "myth" can we "upgrade " our 9.9's to 15hp... hey we are lugging around the weight anyway...
now strats teh age old question..I heard that the only diff. between our 9.9 HP's and the 15hp's is the carb and maybe the intake manifold.... what is the latest on this "myth" can we "upgrade " our 9.9's to 15hp... hey we are lugging around the weight anyway...
Ok, I casually ran this upgrade by my OB engine tech at the yard and he pretty much agreed with ron here but advised against it...I got the usual "void the warranty lecture" but he told me it would hurt the gas economy with out any real meaningful increase in boat speed... I don't think so since I agree with ron it is a big HP jump AND we are lugging the same weight so the HP to weight ratio is more efficient.. anyway I wonder if teh OB's computer or electronics would need to be modified also...
Sometimes it's exhaust, too
I've seen several engines where the different parts also include exhaust components.
In any case, with most of the 4 stroke motors I've seen the 8 and the 9.x share a common platform, but the 15 is usually a physically larger engine with more displacement and a lot more weight.
In any case, with most of the 4 stroke motors I've seen the 8 and the 9.x share a common platform, but the 15 is usually a physically larger engine with more displacement and a lot more weight.
Jeff
s/v Windward
1978 C-26 #481
http://www.lizards.net
http://www.sv-windward.com
http://www.chryslersailing.com
s/v Windward
1978 C-26 #481
http://www.lizards.net
http://www.sv-windward.com
http://www.chryslersailing.com
Tohatsu received... and looks large
Got the new engine last night. I need to bolt up the remote adapters (no instructions, of course, so that should save time normally wasted by reading them) then try in on Windward.
The power prop is a massive mutha, with four nice, wide blades. The hub is .75" larger in diameter, which permits exhaust to vent when in reverse and should reduce cavitation when I'm trying to back down hard.
Almost positive it's going to be too tall to tilt, so will either have to rebuild my rebuilt motor mount (not bloody likely), have a quick extension welded up to bolt onto the mount (ouch! my aesthetics! my aesthetics!) or cover the transom hole and bolt up an external mount.
If motor is in fact too tall I'm leaning towards that latter option. I have a fixed mount from a Hunter 26 that I could (quickly?) repair and adapt, or may order a Garelick unit. Not sure if I'll spring the extra $100 for a 4 stroke bracket or not... I'd figure a stainless one designed to accommodate 20-25 hp and up to 118# should suffice.
The power prop is a massive mutha, with four nice, wide blades. The hub is .75" larger in diameter, which permits exhaust to vent when in reverse and should reduce cavitation when I'm trying to back down hard.
Almost positive it's going to be too tall to tilt, so will either have to rebuild my rebuilt motor mount (not bloody likely), have a quick extension welded up to bolt onto the mount (ouch! my aesthetics! my aesthetics!) or cover the transom hole and bolt up an external mount.
If motor is in fact too tall I'm leaning towards that latter option. I have a fixed mount from a Hunter 26 that I could (quickly?) repair and adapt, or may order a Garelick unit. Not sure if I'll spring the extra $100 for a 4 stroke bracket or not... I'd figure a stainless one designed to accommodate 20-25 hp and up to 118# should suffice.
Jeff
s/v Windward
1978 C-26 #481
http://www.lizards.net
http://www.sv-windward.com
http://www.chryslersailing.com
s/v Windward
1978 C-26 #481
http://www.lizards.net
http://www.sv-windward.com
http://www.chryslersailing.com
CONGRATS OF YOUR NEW 4 STROKE!!!!
Here is my set-up and my advice:
My "rear hole" has been filled in smooth and replaced with a used stainless Garlick EZ mount for a two stroke....the benefits are many ( other than esthetics) but you can mount the OB bracket at any point you like onteh transom so you can put that big ass prop as deep inthe water as you like.... ( note;;this winter I will most likely lower my OB bracket onthe transom to do same) DO NOT USE THE SMALL WOOD MOUNTING BOARD FROM THE 2-STROKE BRACKET FOR THE HEAVIER 4-stroke! ( ask me how I know) BUT Garlick sells a Polyplastic larger board for a four stroke that will "upgrade" our older 2 stroke brackets.
Please tell me two things..how are you going to work your remote controls..on your pedastal ( how?) or with a cockpit mountet surface throttle... I am planning a upgrade from my OEM chrysler cockpit controls onthe starboard cocpit setee... but I am now seriously considering wheel steering and WINDWARD is one of the few C-26 that I see with wheel sterring...please let me know your thoughts onthis..I do see that you bought windward with this set-up but I would be interested in how much rooom it would take up in the cockpit etc...(probably a different thread...
and BTW in the current issue of small craft advisor mag ( with c-22 on cover) there is an ingenious and very very cheap remote control this guy set-up for his OB with pretty much a wire hanger...really fits the KISS philosphy..
Here is my set-up and my advice:
My "rear hole" has been filled in smooth and replaced with a used stainless Garlick EZ mount for a two stroke....the benefits are many ( other than esthetics) but you can mount the OB bracket at any point you like onteh transom so you can put that big ass prop as deep inthe water as you like.... ( note;;this winter I will most likely lower my OB bracket onthe transom to do same) DO NOT USE THE SMALL WOOD MOUNTING BOARD FROM THE 2-STROKE BRACKET FOR THE HEAVIER 4-stroke! ( ask me how I know) BUT Garlick sells a Polyplastic larger board for a four stroke that will "upgrade" our older 2 stroke brackets.
Please tell me two things..how are you going to work your remote controls..on your pedastal ( how?) or with a cockpit mountet surface throttle... I am planning a upgrade from my OEM chrysler cockpit controls onthe starboard cocpit setee... but I am now seriously considering wheel steering and WINDWARD is one of the few C-26 that I see with wheel sterring...please let me know your thoughts onthis..I do see that you bought windward with this set-up but I would be interested in how much rooom it would take up in the cockpit etc...(probably a different thread...
and BTW in the current issue of small craft advisor mag ( with c-22 on cover) there is an ingenious and very very cheap remote control this guy set-up for his OB with pretty much a wire hanger...really fits the KISS philosphy..
I converted back to tiller
Windward did come with a wheel, but I converted back to tiller and would not seriously consider going back, at least on her. Having sailed other boats in the 27' range with both tiller and wheel, I prefer tiller in most cases. I think the decision point for me would be when the rudder just has too much leverage for me to comfortably handle without some mechanical advantage.
Apart from the impromptu body cavity search that the other cockpit occupants have to endure whenever we come about, the tiller is much more convenient. I gain much better feel for the helm, can sit pretty much where I like, it's much easier to singlehand (straddle the tiller and I can use both hands for sail trim), it pivots up to gain oodles of cockpit space at anchor, easy and cheap to connect a tillerpilot, and there's little to go wrong with it.
I'm mounting the Tohatsu remote box low and to starboard, right where the Chrysler unit is now. Will someday remember to take pics and send 'em.
I've read mixed reviews of even the (quite pricey) Garelick 4 stroke brackets, with some claiming they flex a lot when motor is fully raised. Garelick cautions against trailering with the motor attached... like I'm going to remove 100# of motor and readjust the linkage every time??
As much as I don't want to, I'm thinking now of rebuilding the current mount, adding several more inches of depth to it. In the short term, I may have an ugly, "U" shaped extension welded up out of 1/4" steel, then through-bolt it on the sides of the current mount. It would rust, but would be strong and save me doing lots of strength-critical wood, glass and epoxy fabrication when I'm trying to get gone next week. Need to see how much space I lack in pivoting the motor up, then I can better evaluate.
Apart from the impromptu body cavity search that the other cockpit occupants have to endure whenever we come about, the tiller is much more convenient. I gain much better feel for the helm, can sit pretty much where I like, it's much easier to singlehand (straddle the tiller and I can use both hands for sail trim), it pivots up to gain oodles of cockpit space at anchor, easy and cheap to connect a tillerpilot, and there's little to go wrong with it.
I'm mounting the Tohatsu remote box low and to starboard, right where the Chrysler unit is now. Will someday remember to take pics and send 'em.
I've read mixed reviews of even the (quite pricey) Garelick 4 stroke brackets, with some claiming they flex a lot when motor is fully raised. Garelick cautions against trailering with the motor attached... like I'm going to remove 100# of motor and readjust the linkage every time??
As much as I don't want to, I'm thinking now of rebuilding the current mount, adding several more inches of depth to it. In the short term, I may have an ugly, "U" shaped extension welded up out of 1/4" steel, then through-bolt it on the sides of the current mount. It would rust, but would be strong and save me doing lots of strength-critical wood, glass and epoxy fabrication when I'm trying to get gone next week. Need to see how much space I lack in pivoting the motor up, then I can better evaluate.
Jeff
s/v Windward
1978 C-26 #481
http://www.lizards.net
http://www.sv-windward.com
http://www.chryslersailing.com
s/v Windward
1978 C-26 #481
http://www.lizards.net
http://www.sv-windward.com
http://www.chryslersailing.com
thanks..if you can strengthen your current set-up that would be the best...Garlick is right...their mount is not for trailering and I wouldn't do it sither...it is fine for motoring though....I just bought the suzuki remote and will alsoplace it right where the 'ole chrysler was...but I am thnking of "tiller controls" from that add that is found in many sailing mags...
you will get addicted tothe smooth quiet economical power of teh four stroke.. as long as you don't have to heft her a lot...also be very careful NOT TO TIP the motor towwards teh carb side of teh head as oil will flow into the carb and head and ruin your day and poketbook (ask me how I know..)
you will get addicted tothe smooth quiet economical power of teh four stroke.. as long as you don't have to heft her a lot...also be very careful NOT TO TIP the motor towwards teh carb side of teh head as oil will flow into the carb and head and ruin your day and poketbook (ask me how I know..)