Misc work

Banshi · Post by **Banshi** » Sat Aug 09, 2008 7:47 am

I decided to get painting the deck and some misc tasks out of the way before the temps cooled down and the wind returned so I could better spend that time sailing.

http://www.byershome.net/_Boat/Chrysler/Misc/Misc.htm

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Sat Aug 09, 2008 4:54 pm

Nice work ! And I was thinking of painting the nonskid areas on the deck, so what you did there may have just convinced me !

Banshi · Post by **Banshi** » Sun Aug 10, 2008 3:54 am

It went on easy and smooth, even the areas that I had to brush look pretty much the same as those I rolled. I was worried about it being clumpy but those fears were unfounded. Another worry for me was how rough would it be to the touch and while it increased grip quite a bit it is still comfortable to sit or lay on. The only place I did not use the nonskid was at the hatch rails, I used brightside there so the hatch would slide easily. It does not dry quite as fast as the brightside but you still have to move pretty quick and cooler temperatures I'm sure would help. MY biggest issue was my own body function called sweat.............it made keeping the surface clean difficult. I had to use a blanket to keep the sweat that was pouring off me from contaminating everything including the wet paint. I had to keep a hand towel on hand too to wipe the sweat off my brow every other stroke of the brush. But I am now ready for the cool temperatures and winds of fall !

ronc98 · Post by **ronc98** » Sun Aug 10, 2008 6:00 am

I am vey impressed. You boats looks new.

Fair winds.

NYCSAILOR · Post by **NYCSAILOR** » Wed Aug 13, 2008 5:34 am

Very impressive... after power washing my boat...amazing result...it still looks "dingy" compared to the other new ones in the marina..so... fresh paint seems in the works but I felt it could only be done professionally but you have given me encouragement. I also am switching to a in hull transducer and was looking for the best spot...I like where you put yours.

I also see a mast or compression post in your head area pic...what is that? Your retro-fit?

Banshi · Post by **Banshi** » Wed Aug 13, 2008 6:03 am

It's a compression post for the mast and was part of the original design. I have yet to test the transducer in it's current location but hopefully I will get to do that today. I am waiting for a weather window.

NYCSAILOR · Post by **NYCSAILOR** » Wed Aug 13, 2008 9:55 am

thanks..I should have looked better...I am not that ffamiliar with the c-22...it seems the 26 doesn't have that or it is served by the head bulkhead...thanks.

My OEM depth meter has long since given up the ghost...I plan on installing the through hull transducer ( hopefully it will work right) and then in the fall pull the old transducer and fill in the hole ( one less hole toworry about...but I amtold that any anti-fouling bottom paint will defeat a thru-hull AND also a through hull transducer.

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Wed Aug 13, 2008 11:36 am

Stick your head in the head door, and look to the left - in that corner you may see a square veneered post running from top to bottom - thats the compression post.

Mine was basically made of scrap wood under the veneer, and it is indeed a lovely place for an upgrade to something better.

That poorly done post is the reason EE has crazing all around the mast step

Banshi · Post by **Banshi** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 4:55 am

Mine had a old through hull transducer as well and I got rid of it to eliminate the possible leak issue as well. The depth finder that went with it was gone anyways.

EE you reckon someone thought the original post was not cosmetically pleasing and replaced it with something that better matched the surrounding decor or was that how they did the 26's at the factory. Seems kind of iffy for a structural member under such heavy loads.

Banshi · Post by **Banshi** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 5:13 am

I'll have to try to go out again Sat. to see if the depth finder works, yesterday the weather just was not suitable for single handing with rain and gale force winds at times..............so I ended up going to the lake with my Sunfish, that thing is a rocket ship in gale force winds........if you can keep it upright

. The high winds were not so bad as the shifting 45 degrees back and forth. I fell off one time because it shifted while I was hiked out as far as I could and suddenly I was head to wind desperately trying to get my weight back in the boat (it takes time to get 285 back in the boat)...............no go, large splash, fortunately I had a death grip on the tiller extension because the boat sailed on. I managed to pull myself back on board. It was great fun.

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 5:17 am

OEM as far as I can tell. Even after replacing the post, you can still get deck compression. The good news is that the weak chain plates keep you from pulling the mast down too far since they will pull loose and hog the deck up near them

Bad news is when you fix the weak chain plates, now you can pull the mast down into the head again.

From what I read in an old Good Old Boat article, which I've lost, and can't find in the back issues, it seems as tho the post terminates on the inner liner/sole, and between that and the actual concrete ballast is another piece of ply to fill that gap and transfer the load to the keel - if that goes bad from wet or age, replacing the post does no good.

I didn't dig that far, but should I fix the crazing at the mast, and have more appear I will.

Banshi · Post by **Banshi** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 6:04 am

The plywood would seem to be a waste, unless it is really thick (1 1/2" or more), the plywood won't transfer the load very far away from the post contact spot. The concrete (if it is a regular concrete mix) is capable of transferring the load without plywood. Perhaps it is there as much for fastening the base of the compression post as anything else. A metal post with a small flat plate and some short tapcons directly fastened on to the concrete would do just as well I think.

EmergencyExit · Post by **EmergencyExit** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 6:36 am

Best as I can remember the article pics, the plywood fills a gap between the sole and the concrete, so there is continuity between the mast and the ballast pour. I drilled a test bore hole in the ply sole right near that bulkhead where the post is, and there was an air space between the ply and the ballast there.

I'll try to get some pics of the area for EE's website.

I agree about the metal plate, I think if I ever had to dig further I would open up a hole big enough to do just that, then close the sole back around the pole.

I suppose the reason it was done the original way is it was more mass production friendly.

NYCSAILOR · Post by **NYCSAILOR** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 6:41 am

Now that I know the boat floats...I am getting the luxury or worrying about actually sailing her and her standing rigging.... I will do a search and go through al lthe chainplate reinforcement threads and figure out the best practice and I think EE is right...there will be a need to tackle this compression post issue on the 26....seems crazy they left teh factory designed like this,especially how they market them as a kind of heavy weather weekend crusing boat and not simply a fair weather day sailor