Seem like I'm in for another big job...

Guillaume C. · Post by **Guillaume C.** » Fri Dec 21, 2007 1:06 am

Discovered that the Hull-Deck join basicly suck. The deck seem to be a bit to high, and some of the screw are not screwing in wood. Some delamination too between the wood(the part following the topside edge of the hull) and the fiberglass.... :/ Dont know the condition of the wood, but suspect it's not brand new

I'm thinking of removing all the screw holding the two part, maybe separate them to inject epoxy everywhere needed, then put everything back with BOLT ( dont you think it's pretty cheap to have only screw in that place?!?)... and then I could continue on my already long list of project

No precise project yet, but if anyone have worked around a similar issue, let me know.

ronc98 · Post by **ronc98** » Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:40 am

I removed my toerail and was going to reseal that seam. I was lucky that there was no delamination and the screws were secure. I even got lucker to find that it was sealed with ALOT of 5200 so there was not much more I could do. I did think about fiberglassing this joint but in the end I did not think it was needed. I also sealed all the older holes with epoxy and redrilled new ones. I did seal all the older holes with epoxy and redrilled new ones.

As bad as the toerail joint seems the chainplates are a much bigger problem. If there is any delamination in the deck you loose most of your support for the chainrails.

My bit of advice it to get some help putting the toe rail back on. I did it by myself and when I was finished 4 hours later I was completely spent. It is way to heavy to hold with one hands and secure with the other.

Guillaume C. · Post by **Guillaume C.** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 12:45 pm

On yours, did the deck fit flush on top of the hull? I have 3/8 to 1/2 gap and the result is the holes for screw and rivet very neer the edge of fiberglass...

I'm thinking of making stainless fitting for every shroud so that their tension goes directly to the hull instead of the deck/joint/hull, this way the less-than-perfect joint should not be problematic. Any tough on this?

ronc98 · Post by **ronc98** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 5:43 pm

the hull to deck transistion fit was really good on my c-26 There was no gap and what there was filled with 5200. With that said I have a ALOT of delamination around the stanchions and chainplates. I injected close to a gallon of epoxy into the deck. I drill many holes in the softspot areas and then injected epoxy. On the inside there is a 0.5" space between the deck and the hull. This is a problem when injecting epoxy keep that in mind.

Good luck.

Guillaume C. · Post by **Guillaume C.** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 6:29 pm

Did your delaminated area feeled soft under the foot? I have a bit of delamination around the window frame but the deck feel solid. Hope I dont have the same situation. The material used is definatly not high-tech, look like basic carton, same thing on yours? mine's 77'

the 0.5" you talk about, that's vertical gap between the underside of the deck and the top of the hull? If so, thats the gap i was refering too, most screw are in wood, but barely...

ronc98 · Post by **ronc98** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 6:49 pm

no not the same gap. On mine it is where the structure ends under the deck and where the deck/hull joint is made. That part is only fiberglass. This is the hole where the vinyl tucks into on the inside of the deck.

I did not have much delam around the windows all of mine was from all other fittings. they sealed them with pure silicone and that casued the problem. The whole deck was soft. In the end ?I would have been better off just ripping the deck up. Injecting epoxy like I did took alog time to fix correctly

Hope this helps.

Gus · Post by **Gus** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 10:17 pm

My deck to hull join was ok, but I did removed the toe rail and resealed the join with a ton of 5200 (under and over the rail)

I had the same problem with the lifelines stanchions, for pictures of my solution go to http://www.flickr.com/photos/gus_chrysler22/

I had to cut inside the cabin to remove rotten core, and after I did that, I re-did the area with marine ply and a ton of epoxy and cloth (I want to tackle the chain plates next)

Gus

Guillaume C. · Post by **Guillaume C.** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 9:05 pm

the topic is getting old but I might be better to finish with my solution

So I ended up putting is back without much work, on the side of the boat 7-8 screws spined free.. I used bigger one and most thightened OK. The starboard-aft portion does not screw in wood but I guess I'll live with that

On the aft portion where the joint is riveted, most rivet were very weak (less than 1/8" from the edge) but I could lift the back rail a bit, I cut 1" from the rail so I could drill new hole offset from the bad ones, and used bolts.

Then I'll make stainless fitting to help get the shroud tension directly to the hull so the joint is less stressed, Ill post pics of that next week hopefully

NYCSAILOR · Post by **NYCSAILOR** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 10:07 am

gus,

your link does not work...

anyone have a few pics or description on what to look oout for on the chainplates...?

Gus · Post by **Gus** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 5:56 pm

yeah, I have to delete my internet picture album because I had a problem with a cyber-stalker. I freaked out and deleted all I could find. I'll dig up the pictures this weekend.

Gush

kokezaru · Post by **kokezaru** » Tue May 26, 2009 8:48 am

My deck flexes when I push on the lifeline stanchions, I have leaks coming down on the inside of the hull, and I have moss growing along parts of the toe rail. I think I may need to remove the toe rail and look at the deck/hull joint.

What is the first step to removing the toe rail? Do I peel out the rubber bumper, or does it slide out or detach in some other way?

Thanks
--Richard /) /)