bow anchor roller setup
bow anchor roller setup
Anyone have an anchor roller setup for their C-26? I think I am going to fabricate an achor locker on my bow and perhaps add a anchor roller setup.
My C-26 is a 77 model and did not have the anchor locker. I am going to fabricate one myself this winter that incorporates a windlass and a anchor roller. I have been looking at setups to decide how I want to do mine. I would love to see pics of the C-26's that have the anchor locker. It would be interesting to see how they did it.
With all of this said I am wondering where I should draw the line on modifications. It is an old boat and no one will love it like I do. Then again I could just treat is a entertainment. I plan on keeping this for a long while
With all of this said I am wondering where I should draw the line on modifications. It is an old boat and no one will love it like I do. Then again I could just treat is a entertainment. I plan on keeping this for a long while
I've been wanting an anchor roller too
but haven't wanted to remove my chocks, combo light and forestay to work one in.
One idea I had was to remove the aluminum cap trim that covers the hull/deck joint from the end of the rub strip to the bow (you may want to reinforce the joint there anyway, since the early models don't have a headstay chainplate that wraps over the bow to the stem). I'd then use some teak and mahogany I have on hand to make a hefty wooden platform extending to the end of the pulpit, radiusing the inboard end to conform to and cover the hull/deck joint. The anchor roller could be a sturdy trailer roller worked into the end of the unit.
I'd use a couple of chunks of stainless stock and through-bolt to tie the sides in to the hull deck joint. I'd probably add a stainless strap from beneath the headstay padeye and forward cleat to a ways over the inboard end (replace the combo light with something on the pulpit), and use either a chunk of 1" stainless tubing or an angled knee brace would tie the base to the stem. That should also provide enough strength to tack my spinnaker downhaul to the end as well.
I like the space in the v-berth compared to the newer models, but it does cost the anchor locker. To handle the rode, I was thinking of glassing in an angled bulkhead from the forward lower end of the VB back to maybe the forwardmost pulpit stanchions, with a sturdyish door (maybe a $45 beckson locker hatch or something), and maybe a mushroom vent (can be closed but usually open to give ventilation).
Topside, either put one of the large oval chainpipes in the deck to accommodate the rode, or first install a deckplate and mount the chainpipe in that so I could close it off altogether if the mood, conditions or winter storage requirements strike me. Also gives a way to get a hand down into the locker from on deck to clear the terminal snarl that is bound to occur. Hybrid would be a direct mount pipe and a separate deckplate to which I'd normally afix a solar vent. Aerates the locker, pulls stale air out of the VB, is fully sealable and can provide emergency access.
One idea I had was to remove the aluminum cap trim that covers the hull/deck joint from the end of the rub strip to the bow (you may want to reinforce the joint there anyway, since the early models don't have a headstay chainplate that wraps over the bow to the stem). I'd then use some teak and mahogany I have on hand to make a hefty wooden platform extending to the end of the pulpit, radiusing the inboard end to conform to and cover the hull/deck joint. The anchor roller could be a sturdy trailer roller worked into the end of the unit.
I'd use a couple of chunks of stainless stock and through-bolt to tie the sides in to the hull deck joint. I'd probably add a stainless strap from beneath the headstay padeye and forward cleat to a ways over the inboard end (replace the combo light with something on the pulpit), and use either a chunk of 1" stainless tubing or an angled knee brace would tie the base to the stem. That should also provide enough strength to tack my spinnaker downhaul to the end as well.
I like the space in the v-berth compared to the newer models, but it does cost the anchor locker. To handle the rode, I was thinking of glassing in an angled bulkhead from the forward lower end of the VB back to maybe the forwardmost pulpit stanchions, with a sturdyish door (maybe a $45 beckson locker hatch or something), and maybe a mushroom vent (can be closed but usually open to give ventilation).
Topside, either put one of the large oval chainpipes in the deck to accommodate the rode, or first install a deckplate and mount the chainpipe in that so I could close it off altogether if the mood, conditions or winter storage requirements strike me. Also gives a way to get a hand down into the locker from on deck to clear the terminal snarl that is bound to occur. Hybrid would be a direct mount pipe and a separate deckplate to which I'd normally afix a solar vent. Aerates the locker, pulls stale air out of the VB, is fully sealable and can provide emergency access.
Jeff
s/v Windward
1978 C-26 #481
http://www.lizards.net
http://www.sv-windward.com
http://www.chryslersailing.com
s/v Windward
1978 C-26 #481
http://www.lizards.net
http://www.sv-windward.com
http://www.chryslersailing.com
I'm using a "universal style" anchor/bow roller on the HotDot. It holds the 20# CQR well and keeps the anchor line from rubbing and chafing the rub rail on the boat. I did have to shave the bases of the bow pulpit slightly and placed a new bow light on the pulpit. I anchor out 100% of the time and have been very happy with the setup. I would post pictures but I havent figured out how to do that yet.
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The anchor rode passes thru the deck using a deck pipe (http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... 0&id=33121) and is collected under the v-berth. The anchor chain is cut to match the distance between the anchor stock and the deck plate. Because the chain is short (6 ft approxmitaly) I use a heavy 1/2" chain. If the weather gets bad, I use a small 8lb rubberized mushroom anchor as a kellet to give more cantenary to the anchor rode.
The area under the v-berth is split into two sections; the space for the "cooler" and the forward space which is empty. I cut a 1 1/2 inch hole in the aft starboard corner to lead the anchor line into. It's kind of a pain in the butt to put the line in and out on a daily basis but for longer term storage it works fine and keeps the deck clear. When cruising and anchoring on a daily basis I just coil the anchor line and use short bungee (shock) cord to hold it tight to the toerail. That way also the line gets to dry completly before I put it below.
Jim
Jim
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Hotdot, your use of the space below the vberth gives me an idea. My 79 does have the built in anchor locker, but it doesn't store as much as I'd like. You really have to stuff that locker to get the hatch tight with the amount of rode I have.
I might run a thruhull from right where the lower rear side of the locker bulkhead meets the foremost part of the vberth sole, then on in to the area below the vberth.
That way I could use the vberth for "overflow" and keep enough rode for shallow use in the locker with all the rest down below.
Thanks !
I might run a thruhull from right where the lower rear side of the locker bulkhead meets the foremost part of the vberth sole, then on in to the area below the vberth.
That way I could use the vberth for "overflow" and keep enough rode for shallow use in the locker with all the rest down below.
Thanks !
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- EmergencyExit
- Site Admin
- Posts: 2956
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2003 5:02 pm
- Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast
My 1/2" link chain with shackle won't fit thru the deck pipe, thats why I keep it short and used oversized link chain. Also I don't and would not recomend storing wet anchor line below decks, especially line soaked with salt water. The smell from mildew and the crusty sea creatures would not be pleasant! I always dry the line on deck before pulling it below, it also gives me a chance to wash off any slime, mud or weeds that have become attached. I'm currently storing 200' of 1/2" line on the boat and at times I have used all of it. I'll try to get some pictures this week of the deck arrangement and the v-berth area showing the anchor rode.
I've been playing with the idea of a setup similar at yours, but I haven't got the marbles to made a hole in the deck to run the PVC pipe to the storage under the v-birth (currently un-used). I like it, because anchoring alone is a PITA, and I hate to mess tangled line.
Gus
Gus
1976 Chrysler 22 Halve Maen - Sail # 595