How would you proceed?

Lucky Jack · Post by **Lucky Jack** » Sun Oct 03, 2010 7:27 pm

So this is the current state of my C22. The previous owner had obviously done some work on the boat as the hull below the water line has been sanded smoth so that none of the many white "blisters" that can be seen are raised as far as I can tell. Sorry, this is my first fiberglass boat, but does this look like the dreaded boat pox? The keel, though rusted, seems to raise and lower fairly well. I'm inclined to slap some bottom paint on the hull, knock off as much rust as possible and treat/paint the keel, and take the boat out for a trial float to see if she takes on any water. Suggestions?

Mario G · Post by **Mario G** » Mon Oct 04, 2010 2:43 am

Hey Jack that all looks as good as my C-22 when I was cleaning the bottom and keel.

Your bottom glass looks good, you would feel the blisters if it was a problem. As far as the keel I used a steel brush on an electric grinder and had it clean and smooth in 20 min. Theres a paint I use on auto restorations called Por -15 that you can paint the keel with that will never let it rust again.

This woyuld be the time to shake your keel by grabbing it in the back to see how much pin play you have.

Jmckamey · Post by **Jmckamey** » Mon Oct 04, 2010 4:26 am

Looks like a great starting place. Clean her up a bit, knock the rust off the keel and treat like the prevous post suggested. Roll on a couple of coats of bottom paint. If your keel hardware is ok you'll be back in the water in just a couple of days.

Banshi · Post by **Banshi** » Mon Oct 04, 2010 4:56 am

Hard to tell but it looks like most of the gel coat was removed, considering how much looks gone I would use a waterproofing paint underneath what ever you top coat it with to protect the glass from water intrusion.

CaptainScott · Post by **CaptainScott** » Mon Oct 04, 2010 11:27 am

Since you already have the answers to the work, I would feel neglect if I did not comment on your 8" cinder blocks.

Notice the stack on the left partially hidden by the keel? See the top block on its side? That is the WEAKEST way to have it stacked. The holes should be up and down like all the others are not left to right. There is very little support the way you have it now. If it does not fit properly under your wooden cross support it is better to remove it and use 2X6's to build up to the cross support.

Now granted, youy have 3 stacks so you may be OK but if there is any large amount of equal weight on the three stacks the left one will collapse first!

Sorry for the soap box but I always cringe when I see cement blocks used like that!
Scott

Lucky Jack · Post by **Lucky Jack** » Mon Oct 04, 2010 1:52 pm

Yep, it was the end of a long day so I was happy just to get it off the trailer, good advice though. I'm afraid there are several other cringe worthy situations going on at the moment with my current set up.

@Banshi, by waterproofing paint you mean some kind of barrier coating yes?

@Mario, how much play in the pin is too much do you think? I've read at least one story on these forums about a pin failing on the water with bad results. I know it's probably best to drop the keel and redo the whole thing but reconditioning the part I can get to an ok option?

Thanks folks, for the helpful responses.

Tim Huss · Post by **Tim Huss** » Mon Oct 04, 2010 4:33 pm

if your boat has been dry for a while the blisters will tend to disapear! you need to go over it with a small hammer tapping and you will be able to find some of the hidden blisters, dont be afraid to poke around with a sharp knive or scratch awl. dont be afraid of the grinder!

at the price of paint it would all be for nothing if you launch it with a fresh paint job and have all the blisters show. I would make sure it is completly dry and all the blisters are gone, then power wash it with fresh water, it will get rid of all the vinager smelling ooze that blisters create, Dry it good, glass what you need to rebuild fair it and use one of the epoxie barrier coats that are available.
I prefer west system but there is alot of good products out there then paint and sail good luck, its a lot of work but well worth it!

Tim

Bhacurly · Post by **Bhacurly** » Mon Oct 04, 2010 5:09 pm

I'm obviously the wrong person to ask,,,

But I would drop the keel unless your anxious to get sailing this year. It's on blocks, ready for whatever it needs. Easier to work on up high like that. The keel pin and brackets are one of the big weaknesses on these boats at their age.

The pin cuts easily with a sawzall and fresh blade if too stubborn to come out via the brackets. Do a search as there are several good pages with picts for keel bracket work and supports on the forum already. My original brackets cleaned up nice, other folks weren't as lucky. The work on cleaning the keel will be the whole keel and not just what is accessible also.

If I had my hull to do over as you are, I would do as Banshi suggests. You can see glass in numerous areas so a good sealing is in order before priming/painting. Get a good respirator mask, sand some, if needed fair it out, and slap on a few good bottom coats. Don't worry about it being pretty!

Then you'll sleep well knowing the hull, keel, and brackets are set for a long time!

Chrysler Sailors Forum

How would you proceed?

How would you proceed?

double check for the hidden blisters!