Chrysler Sailors Forum

Hello!

The fitting where the rudder post enters the cockpit of our C-22 is spaced with little washers. Must be something the previous owner did. I can't imagine it was designed like this, huh?

The trouble is... when water comes up the rudder post and splashes into the cockpit while sailing or motoring aggressively, most of that water runs out of the cockpit drains as intended, but some finds it way through these openings created by the washers and into to bilge. We are therefore thinking of just filling the gaps with silicone. Is that crazy?

Oops... Sorry. I probably should have posted this in the rudder/tiller specific section...

that's not original. Looks like some shimming for a repair/mod. I'd seal it with 3M 4200.

I think you're into the "do it right rule": I wouldn't just "fill-in" with silicone, I'd find out what's really wrong. Clearly it was a home-spun fix.

Ideas:

A. Maybe there is a bone-yard with Chryslers/ or a Chrysler out there somewhere that would let you have, or obtain original replacement parts.

B. Jerk the assembly, and silicone it back in place as you go, starting with the bottom of the hull and working your way up. Remember that simple rope can make an excellent physical caulk... kind of like the way they would use rope and tar to caulk the gaps between planks on old wooden boats.

C. Start over. Surely you can find aluminum tubing... talk to the guys on this site, and you may be able to discover "right dimensions".

The do it right rule always prevails! Shoot for a real, lasting, and permanent fix. These are great boats, and they can easily last a lifetime.
Why not fix it right?

Thanx!
Bill Williams

Thanks guys. I'm certainly a fan of the "do it right" idea. But only, of course, if I know what "right" looks like! Anyone willing to snap a picture of what this looks like when it's right?

JUst FYI:
The original setup used a hollow tube for the rudder post.
The tube rotated inside of the "Radiator like hose".

Aggressive motoring did indeed get water to come up inside the hollow tube and enter the cockpit. Especially with more weight aft. Newer 4 stroke motors added weight at the aft plus my belly added weight aft.

Capping the underside of the post would have resolved the issue but I never bothered.


AS stated, your setup is not factory.

Scott

The rudder post was made hollow so lines could be passed through to raise and lower the rudder. It appears to me from your photo that the rudder post bushing was given a tilt so the bottom bushing lined up without binding. Perhaps a previous owner replaced the bottom through hull rudder bushing and somehow altered the angle, thus causing a slight misalignment with the upper. If the upper and lower bushings appear to be in good shape without slop or binding, I would simply fill the gap around the washers to keep the water from seeping into the bilge.

Thanks everyone!

Re-sealing the through hull and replacing the flexible hose was one of the first things we did when we got the boat. Seeing as this whole system seems to be otherwise working well, I went ahead and simple filled the gaps between washer. Seemed to work great on the water today!

That mushroom shaped bushing in your pictures is should actually be your lower tiller bushing, with the rounded part inserted in the hull. That allows the tiller shaft the ability to pivot a little to line up with the upper tiller shaft bushing. Rudder craft has a good picture of how it's layout.
https://ruddercraft.com/index.php?route ... uct_id=437