New C-15 Man O War owner questions re: flotation, etc.

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DrFeelgood
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Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2011 7:34 am
Location: Vancouver, WA, United States

New C-15 Man O War owner questions re: flotation, etc.

Post by DrFeelgood »

I got bitten by the sailing bug in July 2011. Yesterday (08/25/2011) I picked up a (?1972?) Chrysler C-15 Man O War and trailer for $500 off of Craigslist. The seller said it had been passed around in his extended family since it was new.

It is sailable, but is clearly neither original nor in excellent condition. I already read the manual, and have scanned these boards for answers to my questions, but questions still linger.

1) Flotation:

I took the boat out to a shallow lake yesterday. Contrary to the manual, my boat is NOT unsinkable, nor does it "come up with virtually no water onboard." I am guessing that the original closed cell flotation was either removed or decayed. Since I don't drink soda, water noodles seem to be a good idea.

a) Where was the original flotation placed? In the bow? In the stern? In the sides?
b) If the bow is supposed to have flotation, does anyone have any suggestions for how to keep it from interfering with stowing the mast and boom?
c) Should I try to remove any old flotation before putting in water noodles?
d) How do you get the water noodles into the sides? I was thinking of inserting them through the boom stowing ports (also referred to as "inspection ports" on the technical diagrams), and then working them backwards under the sides.
e) Any idea how many water noodles to buy? You can get a box of 18 3.5" by 60" noodles for $50. Each side looks like it could take about 1 box, another box in the stern, and another in the bow.
f) Those boom stowing ports seemed to contribute to sinking my boat as they allowed water to flow into the bow. I have read that some people have modified these with screw on caps. Seems like a good idea to me. What exactly is the nautical name for a part that is "a hole with a screw-on cap"?

2) Sail and Rigging

a) My boat didn't come with battens. There are at least 3 major boating suppliers nearby. Is that something they would routinely stock, or should I just get them from the online sources mentioned here?

b) Can anyone provide a more detailed description or photo of the original fittings related to the mast? The manual mentions "two jam cleats just aft of the mast." The line drawing doesn't provide enough detail. My boat has only one.

c) Can anyone provide a photo of the original (or properly working modification) of the pulleys and jam cleat related to rigging the sheet and boom. The setup on my boat doesn't match the pictures, and frankly doesn't work well.

d) What is the ideal size rope to use for the sheet (length and diameter). The only sizes specified in the manual are:
48-inch piece of 3/16-inch reefing line
24-inch piece of 3/16-inch downhaul
Chrysler C-15 Man O War
Serial Number 2430301391
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CaptainScott
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Post by CaptainScott »

Well I'm not help on the MOW but I can most certainly Welcome you to the forum!

Welcome aboard! Glad to have ya here! I see you are near my neck of the woods!

There are several Chrysler Sailors here in the Washington area! Hang tight, you should get some answers soon!

Scott
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mcrandall
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Post by mcrandall »

Welcome aboard and Good Luck!
Mark
http://s1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc4 ... ew%20C-22/
1975 C-22 currently named Stardust (soon to be "Angela Marie")
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astrorad
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Post by astrorad »

Welcome Drfeelgood...the holes with screw on covers are called "deck plates" and are available at West Marine and other suppliers. They come in various sizes...4", 6", and 8" usually. You can get them in white and black and clear...smooth or textured...screw in and pry out types. They are usually sealed or bedded with 100 % Silicone.
I can't help you with the other stuff...have fun!!!!
Bill
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kobrie38
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Re: New C-15 Man O War owner questions re: flotation, etc.

Post by kobrie38 »

Welcome! I'm fixing a 13' Barracuda, so we're pretty much in the same boat (pun intended). That being said:
DrFeelgood wrote:I got bitten by the sailing bug in July 2011.
d) What is the ideal size rope to use for the sheet (length and diameter). The only sizes specified in the manual are:
48-inch piece of 3/16-inch reefing line
24-inch piece of 3/16-inch downhaul
I believe that the 48" and 24" refers to the lenght and that the 3/16" refers to the diameter.

And I have also seen deck plates referred to as "inspection ports"
Ex Scientia Tridens
ginge925
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Post by ginge925 »

my man o war looks different to the pictures that i have seen online. my boom attaches to a goose neck riveted to the mast and the sail raised and lowered on a halyard. After many knockdowns have set up the sail so that i can lower the main and fitted a second clew to enable me to reef on the go. Steve
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maRaider
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Post by maRaider »

Sounds like we're about to experience many of the same um... learning opportunities! On my MOW, the bulkhead with the two circular ports was cut entirely away, replaced with a large rectangular (and not amazingly finished) furring-strip rectangle opening. No significant flotation in there, either.

In my case, I have been collecting soda bottles from friends for a year now. My wife and I were planning to use them as buoyancy protection in a pontoon boat. We may still, but until then I plan to use them in "Dreams." I think in my case the cut-away port is going to be a blessing (for ease of putting the bottles in) and a curse (because I have to figure out a good, visually appealing way to close it off and increase the flotation potential even more...

I'll keep you up to date and hope you do the same.
Man-O-War - 15
"Dreams"
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Leeway
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Post by Leeway »

Hope this answers most of your questions.

Flotation:

a) Where was the original flotation placed? In the bow? In the stern? In the sides?

Answer - The spray in foam flotation was in the sides. I do not believe they used closed cell foam, so it eventually got water logged, decayed and worked it's way to the stern where there is no inspection port. I placed a water tight deck plate in the middle of the stern deck to remount the gudgeon and found most of the foam bits and pieces back there.

b) If the bow is supposed to have flotation, does anyone have any suggestions for how to keep it from interfering with stowing the mast and boom?

Answer - I removed as much of the old flotation foam as possible and inserted foam flotation noodles in the sides I could only fit 4-5 in each side. Haven't had any problems with the boat sinking after dunking.

c) Should I try to remove any old flotation before putting in water noodles?

Answer - Only the loose stuff

d) How do you get the water noodles into the sides? I was thinking of inserting them through the boom stowing ports (also referred to as "inspection ports" on the technical diagrams), and then working them backwards under the sides.

Answer - Exactly how I did it.

e) Any idea how many water noodles to buy? You can get a box of 18 3.5" by 60" noodles for $50. Each side looks like it could take about 1 box, another box in the stern, and another in the bow.

Answer - I could only add about 4-5 on each side because there is some type of ridge halfway between the bow and stern.

f) Those boom stowing ports seemed to contribute to sinking my boat as they allowed water to flow into the bow. I have read that some people have modified these with screw on caps. Seems like a good idea to me. What exactly is the nautical name for a part that is "a hole with a screw-on cap"?

Answer - I removed the plastic trim around the ports and installed round water tight deck plates (screw in lids). I find that this helps a great deal to keep most water out, but water still finds its way in there through loose seals around the boat rails where the deck meets the hull. Don't put a drain plug in the drain hole from the bow to the cockpit so water can drain out of there.


2) Sail and Rigging

a) My boat didn't come with battens. There are at least 3 major boating suppliers nearby. Is that something they would routinely stock, or should I just get them from the online sources mentioned here?

Answer - Mine were not originals. The previous owner cut his own out from sheets of fiberglass panels. Funny thing is that I later found the original wood battens in the sides of the hull when I was removing the bits and pieces of old foam. However, they were dry rotted and could not be used. I have since lost the fiber glass replacements after capsizing a couple Summers ago. The bottom edge stitching of the batten pockets had given way. Lost all three. A friend of mine made me a new set and mended my sail. Two years later my son found one of them sunk in the muck right at the end of our pier. I lost it out in the middle of the lalke.

b) Can anyone provide a more detailed description or photo of the original fittings related to the mast? The manual mentions "two jam cleats just aft of the mast." The line drawing doesn't provide enough detail. My boat has only one.

Answer - In the original setup there are two jam cleats on the deck (not sure why two). The downhaul line should attach around the boom near the gooseneck with a bowline. The boom attaches to the main tack grommet and then the downhaul line is pulled tight through the jam cleats.
On my MOW a previous owner added a block on the mast and one on the boom for added strength. The downhaul is still tied to the boom, but then goes down through the mast block, then up to the boom block and then down through the jam cleat.


c) Can anyone provide a photo of the original (or properly working modification) of the pulleys and jam cleat related to rigging the sheet and boom. The setup on my boat doesn't match the pictures, and frankly doesn't work well.

Answer - Mine was no longer original either. The Man-o-war Nomenclature picture has a zoom in of the proper setup. I bought a harken swivel cleat and fiddle block to approximate the original design. It works well.

d) What is the ideal size rope to use for the sheet (length and diameter). The only sizes specified in the manual are:
48-inch piece of 3/16-inch reefing line
24-inch piece of 3/16-inch downhaul

Answer - The reefing line is attached at the clew grommet of the main to reef the sail at the 2/4 position cleat on the boom. The downhaul line is to pull the boom down at the mast to tighten the sail. The main sheet will be wider and longer. I believe it is 5/8" wide, but the length escapes me and the boat is stored 4 hours away. I will try to remember to measure it when I go back to the lake this Fall.
Lee Hoeppner
Boat: C-15 Man-o-War
Name: Sea'chele
Year: Pre-1973
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