Building a Trailer Tongue Extension

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skyking

Building a Trailer Tongue Extension

Postby skyking » Tue Oct 11, 2011 2:55 am

Well its time to think about pulling the boat out for the year and I have ordered my steel for a long awaited tongue extension. My thoughts are to start with a 10' piece if 3X3X10' 1/4' wall tubing, and 2pieces of 3 1/4 X 3 1/4 X 3/16 wall for the outer tube. A pin & coupling from Tractor Supply.

My thoughts are to end up with about 7 to 8 ft of extension when all said and done. The plan is to fabricate this under the trailer frame just off center so that it doesnt interfere with the main coupling.

I will take picture but before I start is there anyone who has one and wishes it were different. Suggestions please...

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Postby N41EF » Tue Oct 11, 2011 7:25 am

I have a trailer made of galvanized steel, made my a company in Florida. The main trailer tongue slide in and out but only about four feet. Longer would be better. There is a 5/8 hole with a 1/2 pin the drops in to lock it extended or retracted. The inner tube has a lump of weld bead on the end so that the extension can not be over extended and come out.

I saw a trail in the parking lot that had an extension mounted under the main coupler and extended about 6 feet. It was mounted about 3 inches below, so the "new" coupler slide under the main. That would kind of raise the nose, drop the tail and make it easier to load.
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Postby clair hofmann » Tue Oct 11, 2011 1:40 pm

Did you order seamless or welded tube? If it is welded you will need to machine or grind a groove on the 3" tube to clear the weld. Don't forget to grease the 3" tube real well. You might even put some grease fittings on the 31/2"Do you have brakes? If so will you put a coil of DOT brake hose to allow for the extend?

Sounds like a good upgrade. Anxious to see the results.


Clair

skyking

Postby skyking » Tue Oct 11, 2011 5:04 pm

I ordered seamless tube, as for the brakes there are none on my trialer. I do like the idea of the grease fittings.

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Postby Holiday » Wed Oct 12, 2011 5:10 pm

On the Chrysler 26 I have an old hunter trailer with a tongue that slides out 10 ft I have only used it once and it was just long enough. On the my
Ensign I have a 15 ft 3" tube extension and have added another 10 ft tube which I used to use on shallow ramps. Now I usually use a 25 ft long 18,000 lb tow strap that was $26 at Tractor Supply. It is a lot easier to use and works just as well as the rigid extension.

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Postby LeatherneckPA » Thu Oct 13, 2011 2:55 pm

Holiday wrote:Now I usually use a 25 ft long 18,000 lb tow strap that was $26 at Tractor Supply. It is a lot easier to use and works just as well as the rigid extension.

I'm trying to wrap my head around that idea. Is a shallow ramp still steep enough for the trailer to roll down it as you back up? What holds up the tongue of the trailer? More details, and maybe a couple of photos, would help here.
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Postby Holiday » Fri Oct 14, 2011 9:40 am

On the shallowest ramp at our club we need the full 25ft. You either need to back the empty trailer fast enough or when the wheels hit the mud at the end of the ramp it will bog down. Sometimes we tie a line to the back of the trailer and let someone give it an exta pull to keep it going straight. With the boat on the trailer or a better ramp there is no problem. With any extension I have used you need a wheel under the nose of the trailer. Usulally a wheel on the jack will do.

skyking

Postby skyking » Wed Oct 19, 2011 9:29 am

I have everything fit up..Pictures coming soon... Just need to check a few things prior to welding, and wait for the rain to stop..you know electric & water dont mix well :shock:

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Postby EmergencyExit » Fri Oct 21, 2011 5:10 am

skyking wrote: ..you know electric & water dont mix well :shock:


Shockingly bad as I recall :roll:

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Postby Paul » Fri Oct 21, 2011 3:26 pm

Actually, they mix too well. Just wanted to keep current with the topic :wink:
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skyking

Postby skyking » Sun Oct 23, 2011 12:27 pm

As promised here are some pictures of the completed project...minus a paint job of course. As you can see I have installed the assembly under the main trailer frame off center enough to be stored out of the way of my main coupling so that it doesnt interfere when trailering down the road.

I will have 6' extra feet when fully extended. I have drilled an extra set of holes so that I have shorter option should I need it.
My material list is as follows:

1 - Pc 3"X3"X10' 1/4" Wall Tube
2- Pc 3 1/4" x 3 1/4" X 18" Tube $134.00 for All of the Tubing
1 - Pc 2" Angle 3" Long (Scrap)
1 - Pc 3" Channel 3 1/4" long ( Scrap)
1 - 1/2" T-Handle Pin from Tractor Supply $4.99
1- Coupling for 3" tubing & 3" Ball $19.99

About 160.00 for the whole project

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Postby Paul » Sun Oct 23, 2011 6:00 pm

I like it. Didnt' realize during the discussion that you have a fixed keel. That explains the greater need for an increased tongue length. I had envisioned you keeping the coupling down even with the steel tubing to help lower the stern of the boat upon launch. I look forward to seeing pictures of it working!

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Postby troyengel » Sun Oct 23, 2011 6:39 pm

I think I'm going to add a roller to the front of my trailer to help push up the bow, I've had some problems getting it back on the trailer, I've noticed that the one thats up front is not even touching the Bottom. so I'll adjust it up, and install another one farther up to help align and lift the bow into place. What do you guys think ??

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Postby mcrandall » Sun Oct 23, 2011 6:57 pm

A good idea, Troy. Think I need to do some of the same for mine. My roller doesn't touch either.
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skyking

Postby skyking » Mon Oct 24, 2011 4:37 am

I wanted to keep the coupling as low as possible , BUT , I also wanteed to stay within a range of what the tongue jack could raise/lower to with out having to raise or lower the ball on the vehicle end of things.

As Allan says KISS ( Keep it simple stupid) So thats where my thoughts were :D

I plan on using it tomorrow, so more pictures to follow...

skyking

Postby skyking » Wed Oct 26, 2011 7:36 am

I saw a trail in the parking lot that had an extension mounted under the main coupler and extended about 6 feet. It was mounted about 3 inches below, so the "new" coupler slide under the main. That would kind of raise the nose, drop the tail and make it easier to load.


Now that I have used the extension, There are modifications in order. First off it did allow me to get the trailer in deeper without sinking the truck. A+ on that end.

As for having the extension being mounted under the main frame its a real issue at my local ramp. By having it lower, that in turn raises the front of the trailer too much which causes problems getting the boat up far enough onto the trailer.

The bow hits the stop, but due to the steep angle of the trailer while the boat is floating level when you pull up the ramp the boat settles too far back on the trailer.

Other issues were the extension would drag on the ramp at the transition point at the top of the ramp.So I had to flip the ball to a higher setting which allowed me to use the extension without dragging, but had to settle for the boat sitting a little too far back.

My Modifications will be this:

Remove the original main coupling and replace it with the extension so that there is only one coupling that is retracted for trailering. By having the extension mounted in a higher location that will drop the nose of the trailer and hopefully eliminate the issue of the steep angle that is encountered during loading.

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Postby mcrandall » Wed Oct 26, 2011 11:15 am

When yuou guys use your extension, do you use the front jack with wheel to help carry the load? I know mine bows quite a bit due to the length. Normal?
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Postby J. Austin » Wed Oct 26, 2011 2:09 pm

Yes Mark,
I definately do. I had to move my jack from the tongue and on to the body. I don't put alot of pressure on it. I have found that I don't need to use it when I use less tongue. And I only try to use as much as I need.
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Postby mcrandall » Wed Oct 26, 2011 4:09 pm

Thanks Jay, I suspected so.
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skyking

Postby skyking » Thu Oct 27, 2011 4:06 am

Mark,

I do not use my jack..The extension is built from heavy 1/4" wall steel, hardley any bow in it at all. Also there is too much of an angle at the top of the ramp which would rip the jack off the trailer.

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Postby mcrandall » Thu Oct 27, 2011 5:31 am

Thanks Tim!

I was worried about that as well, but figured if I only put it down enough to catch some of the load, it might flex over the peak from where the ramp goes from horizontal to where it falls off to the water.

You see, mine flexes a good 4-5 inches when the tongue is extended out. Don't know what it is, but not as stiff as yours seems to be.

Unfortunately, I replace my OEM wheeled jack with a weld-on swing-up jack that has a pad--and NOT interchangeable with wheels. Outsmarted myself this time, I think.

Back to the drawing board. Have the winter to think it over. Maybe a temp adjustable wheel to put in place only on ramp (but a wheeled jack will probably be the cheapest solution! :roll: )

Thanks for the input, Tim!
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Postby Capt. Bondo » Thu Oct 27, 2011 8:52 am

Mark
You could move the boat back on the trailer some to reduce the tongue weight and that would reduce the bowing in the extention.
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Postby mcrandall » Thu Oct 27, 2011 1:44 pm

Hmmm. Then I would have to move the arm that holds the rubber vee stop at the bow, but that's doable.

Another good input to think on!

Thanks!!!
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Postby Alanhod » Fri Oct 28, 2011 12:17 am

Man I love this forum. Everyone put out these amazing upgrades, practical tests of those upgrade. Then someone else takes that knowledge and improves their rig, and so on. All shared, all enjoyed, all happy to do so and everyone wins, every time.

It's a world wide R&D team. The Chrysler Brain Trust as I always say. :D

I don't need a trailer Tongue Extension, but if I ever do, this is the way to do it I'm thinking.

I repeat, Man I love this forum! Thanks everyone. 8)

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Postby OutnBacker » Sun Oct 20, 2013 5:19 pm

Here is what I did for a tongue extension over the weekend. The trailer is not an original for the C-22, and so does not accomodate easy ramp launching - til now.

The tongue was made from 3 X 4 X .120" tube. Thin in my opinion, but at 7 feet long, it has the strength to support a 12 foot insert of 2-1/2 X 3-1/2 and .187 thick. There is no sag at rest in the insert although there is an expected bandiness during travel - like a double dumper wit a long reach.

Even though the new extension makes the tongue 9 feet longer than stock, it also helps with handling and backing. The shorter the trailer, the harder it is to back up, and the more likely it is to whiplash on the road. When extended, I get 12 feet from the ball to the trailer spare.

The tortured wreck in the forgound is the stop-gap hitch extension I made just to get me in the water after buying the boat. It worked, as expected, for four launches but only three retrievals...

Dry feet. Dry Jeep.

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Postby NYCSAILOR » Sun Apr 06, 2014 2:25 pm

I have a fixed keel c26 and would love to launch it from the trailer. I have a few problems. Trailer is steel and I fear it would rust away I salt water. What should I use to paint it to protect it. . also I have electric brakes on the trailer. I also have three jack stand on each side on the trailer. No rollers so I would have to get it deep to float off......so that leads me to this thread....the need for a ten foot extension to get her deep.....I would use a single 10 foot extension with a ball at one end and a coulomb at other. Might make backing her down the ramp pretty tricks and I would fashion a wheeled undercarriage for the rouge from one of those harbor freight hand truck things they sell to move around a trailer without a tow vehicle. Still got to get past the paint protection first
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