Axle Brake flange Diameter

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Franklinp40
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Axle Brake flange Diameter

Postby Franklinp40 » Tue Mar 08, 2011 3:28 pm

Hello, Does anyone have a original C-22 trailer with factory electric brakes? How do they hold up in the water? I am looking to add them to mine. I will need info on the axle diameter to purchase the weld on brake flanges. Also what diameter of drums should be on there? It would be cool if someone did this conversion and had a parts list. We have northern tool here and they sell all but the weld on flange. I am guessing I need the 4 bolt square flange, but what diameter should the hole be? Also I am guessing this is a 3500 # axle ? I have searched the forum but because axle is so common it is mainly unrelated hits. Thanks.

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Postby mcrandall » Tue Mar 08, 2011 7:15 pm

Mark
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1975 C-22 currently named Stardust (soon to be "Angela Marie")

Franklinp40
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Postby Franklinp40 » Tue Mar 08, 2011 7:36 pm

Thanks, I can look at those part numbers and get the axle O.D. Then match that to a brake flange I.D. Some welding and I should be all set. Wish the tongue didn't need to be extended so I could go hydraulic. Thanks.

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Postby Paul » Tue Mar 08, 2011 9:28 pm

So here's my big question: Here in Colorado we have a hill or two to go over, as in coming from Dillon Lake back to Denver you're going from 10,000' back to a mere 5,000'. On a downhill run like that I'm afraid of 1) With surge brakes they would be engaged all the time, and 2) Even if they aren't but I'm using brakes along with downshifting how do I keep them from overheating?

Enlighten me please!!!
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Postby CaptainScott » Wed Mar 09, 2011 10:11 am

Don't drive to fast and use engine compression to help slow the tow rig.
Do not drive beyond your abilities.

I took Lady Jo over Snoqualmi Pass to Eastern Washington last year and brought her home over Stevens Pass. I towed with an F150 4.2 6 Cylinder.

I had no problems. Yeah I did not power over the pass like some folks would. In fact at its slowest going up I believe I was down to 39 mph. I selected times of the day when traffic was light to avoid frustrating other drivers. It was night also. When I saw headlights coming up behind me I turned on my flashers and moved as far right as I could to allow them every chance to pass as quickly as they could.

So, basically don't go to fast even down hill. Stop and check things regularly to see where you are at. Keep the tires inflated properly and the wheel bearings greased. If you are on exceptionally step down grades be aware of all runouts and go even slower. IF you can not control yourself, just drop in behind a bigrig and see how fast they go down step slopes. Follow loosely behind a trucker and you'll probably be slow enough.

Did I mention keep your speed down?

OK, that is my two bits.

Scott

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mcrandall
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Postby mcrandall » Wed Mar 09, 2011 11:06 am

Was stationed in C-Springs for a few years, so we would make the obligatory trip up Pikes Peak whenever guests came to visit. Obviously not towing anything, but the steep ride and numerous switchbacks made for some serious wear and tear on brakes and high potential for overheating.

That said, my two cents come from the fact that the Rangers would stop you at a checkpoint on the way down and check the temps on your brakes using one of those laser sensors. Made you wait til they cooled before continueing on. I'll bet Northern Tool has them at a reasonable price.

Might be worthwhile if you're making such a trip on a regular basis.
Mark

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1975 C-22 currently named Stardust (soon to be "Angela Marie")

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Paul
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Postby Paul » Wed Mar 09, 2011 4:28 pm

Allow me to clearify my question. When going slowly down a mountain, with the boat & trailer trying to push you along, would the surge brakes be constantly engaged? If so I think that's a problem and I may go with electric brakes but not the surge package.
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mcrandall
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Postby mcrandall » Wed Mar 09, 2011 5:39 pm

Paul-

I'm not that familiar with the surge brakes other than what they are and how they work. Other than that, never had them so can't comment on them with any authority. Seems like you might be right, depending on how sensitive they are.

My comment was only as a measure for you to quickly check the status of your brakes (surge or electric) during your trip BEFORE the smoke rolls out from them. :shock:

Another thought, you can control the electric brakes so your tow vehicle carries more or less of the braking load as the condition requires. Gives you some flexibility that you don't get with surgers, i believe.

Just thinking out loud....
Mark

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Postby Franklinp40 » Wed Mar 09, 2011 6:05 pm

My last boat a precision 18 had the surge brakes. I don't recall ever having an issue going down hill with them. You can always lock out the brakes with the back up pin. I would think there is enough rolling resistance on the trailer to keep from actuating the brakes down hill. My surge brakes really took quite a bit to get them to go. This trailer will be my first with electric brakes and water involved. All my trailers at work have them. Electric is superior to hydraulic if you have the proper settings on the controller or have the really expensive controller that thinks for you. Plus it is cheaper and easier to work on.

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Postby Franklinp40 » Wed Mar 09, 2011 6:22 pm

Thanks again Mark for the Pn#'s. I ordered the brakes and drums and found a 1 3/4" brake flange from some online trailer place. The brake parts are shipping for free to my local northern in Orlando. I will keep the board posted with how it turns out after i weld it up. Thnaks again.

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Postby mcrandall » Wed Mar 09, 2011 9:34 pm

Good-luck!
Mark

http://s1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc4 ... ew%20C-22/

1975 C-22 currently named Stardust (soon to be "Angela Marie")

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Postby Capt. Bondo » Tue Mar 15, 2011 5:39 pm

Just as a FYI, The Hunter 26 trailer next to me has surge brakes with a extended tongue :shock: The hydraulic line runs down the middle of the tongue extension then exits out the side, a rubber hose then connects to another hard brake line in the side rail frame. the hose is mounted half way between full in and full extension, so it is never stretched.

Any trailer brakes are better than no trailer brakes 8)
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Franklinp40
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Postby Franklinp40 » Sat Mar 19, 2011 7:14 am

I got the stuff from Northern, then inner bearing on the drums is fine but the outer is way to big. This sucks because I am going to the keys tomorrow. I will tackle this when I get back. I guess our trailers are different. Thanks.

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Postby Franklinp40 » Sat Mar 19, 2011 7:15 am

The flanges are tracked to be here today. I will leave the hubs off so if the flanges fit I can just weld them up and at least that will be done.

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Postby mcrandall » Sat Mar 19, 2011 7:40 am

Hmmm. My flange is just that, a flange. Inners on my brakes were larger than the outers and fit like a glove. Are you saying your bearings are the same size, inner and outer? Or are the outers just too big for the flange you have comming? Did you get the same brake drum as I did? I still have my old drums here and can put the calipers to the bearings easy enough so we can see if we have the same thing.

Let me know the dimensions of the flange you get when it arrives.
Mark

http://s1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc4 ... ew%20C-22/

1975 C-22 currently named Stardust (soon to be "Angela Marie")

Franklinp40
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Postby Franklinp40 » Sat Mar 19, 2011 8:04 am

The flange , the small metal square I have to weld on seems to fit fine. Normally this would already be on the trailer. The inners on the brake drum fit fine. The outer on the brake drum is to large for the axle diameter. The trailer axle outer seems to be about 3/4" inch and the drums are 1 1/8". No sweat, I was told by the trailer place near here this a bad idea due to this exact odd combination of bearing. I will just build another axle and plop it under there with the flanges already on it. Thanks again.


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